Ask the Expert
IF YOU HAVE A PRODUCT RELATED QUESTION, PLEASE USE OUR CONTACT US FORM FOR AN IMMEDIATE RESPONSE. THIS SECTION IS RESERVED FOR GENERAL WOODWORKING RELATED QUESTIONS.
Michael Van Pelt is the founder of American Sycamore Woodworker’s Retreat. He has a reputation as the tool guru. Mike has been in woodworking for over thirty years. His knowledge of tools comes from his many years of intertwining experience in the woodworking industry. Mike’s experiences include being active as an Industrial Arts Teacher, professional instructor of power machinery and tool techniques, tool sales, management and owner of woodworking tool retail store, Delta Machinery representative and technical advisory.
If you have a question for Michael, choose the Submit Question button to the right by November 30th. We will send you a reply with Mike's response in mid-December and then post it to this page for other members to view. You never know...someone else may have the same question
IF YOU HAVE A PRODUCT RELATED QUESTION, PLEASE USE OUR CONTACT US FORM FOR AN IMMEDIATE RESPONSE. THIS SECTION IS RESERVED FOR GENERAL WOODWORKING RELATED QUESTIONS.
Listed below are questions and answers that have already been submitted.
Questions
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9/20/2009
To Glue or Not to Glue?
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I've noticed that sometimes when assembling things like cabinet doors, the inside panel is not glued to allow for expansion. Is there a rule of thumb for determining when and when not to glue two pieces of wood being joined together? |
| A. |
One must always consider wood movement when building furniture and cabinets. Large panels and doors want to move and should not be restricted or glued into place. There are no set rules but each situation must be considered. I use figure 8 Fasteners for most table tops and always allow a little “wiggle” room for wood movement. Fine Wood Working has several good articles on wood movement and joinery techniques. |
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9/20/2009
Glue for Multiple Types of Wood
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I want to use multiple wood species for glue ups. Can you glue most woods together or is there a general rule? And what would be the best glue to use? |
| A. |
I have made 100’s of cutting boards with all kinds of wood and I have had good luck with TiteBond II waterproof glue. If you are using any “oily” woods I would recommend Gorilla glue. |
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9/9/2009
Cleaning up Glue
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
What is the most effective way to wipe off run-off glue after clamping joints? Some say to use a wet sponge while it is wet, while others wait until it sets up and then scrape it off. I've struggled with this because I always seem to miss some at the joints and it ruins the finish and causes blots in my stain. |
| A. |
All of the above methods I have used. I prefer to let the glue set until it has skinned over well. Then I use a scraper to clean-up the joint. On the interior joints I dry fit it first and place painters tape where it joint comes together to minimize glue squeeze out. To make sure I have succeeded in removing all the glue, before I start the finishing process, I lightly wipe the area with denatured alcohol, if there is any glue residue left, it will appear. |
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9/9/2009
Glue Joints
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I recently made a raised panel door and glued it together with titebond yellow wood glue. The cabinet is in a bathroom and the door is separating from the glued joints at the rail and style. Is there a certain glue to use when it would be in a higher moisture content area? |
| A. |
Any time I am in doubt if there maybe a moisture problem, I use the titebond ll. Titebond ll is rated for outdoor use, so if it works there it should work in the bathroom. |
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4/16/2009
Glue Clean Up Routine
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
What is your glue clean up routine? I am not sure which is best, clean up while glue is wet or waiting until glue has set and cutting off squeeze out. I typically use titebond original or titebond III. |
| A. |
Let the glue dry for twenty to thirty minutes and use a chisel or hand scraper to scrape it off. This way if comes off easily and creates no mess. I never use water on a rag. It just contaminates the surface. |
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4/16/2009
Loosen Old Glue on Chair Joints
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
What is the material to loosen up old glue on chair joints? |
| A. |
It does depend on the glue but a heat gun usually does the trick. Just keep it moving and add a little water to help soften things a bit and you should be home free. |
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4/14/2009
Temperature for Glue
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I have Elmers wood glue-what temp is best to use? |
| A. |
Keep from freezing and store at room temperature. If your shop is not heated or
allowed to get real hot in the summer I would keep it in the house at a more
stable temperature. |
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4/14/2009
Does glue "go bad"?
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Does yellow carpenters glue "go bad" and if so, how do I know when it shouldn't be used anymore? |
| A. |
Glue is cheap. If you can not remember when you bought it …..Toss it out.
There is no since taking a chance of ruined work over $1.00 worth of glue. When
I purchase glue I take a black permanent marker and write the date on the
bottle. If the glue has ever been frozen get rid of it. |
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4/14/2009
Glue for Cocobolo
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
What is the best glue and the best finish for cocobolo? |
| A. |
I wipe the joint down with acetone and use gorilla glue. Cocobolo really does
not need a finish, buffing the wood gives it a beautiful deep rich look. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/14/2009
Glue on Table
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
This summer I tried to build a table, it turned out looking great for a first try. The problem is once I brought it inside the house it cracked at almost every glue joint, even after being polyurethaned. How do I avoid this happening? |
| A. |
I suspect that the wood itself is the problem. The wood was most likely not
dried to a degree need to build a piece of fine furniture. When you brought it
inside into a much drier condition the wood moved and shrunk the joints. Visit
your local hard wood dealer and ask for his recommendations. |
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4/14/2009
Hot Pot Glue
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Where can one get HOT POT GLUE ? When I was young we always had a pot of glue cooking in our wood shop. |
| A. |
You will find both glue and pot at Highland Hardware in Atlanta Georgia. They have an excellent
catalog and web site. |
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4/14/2009
Applying Oak Veneer
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I would like to apply some oak veneer to the top of an old side table. The last time I applied veneer I was instructed to use contact cement. I had no problem applying the veneer but was not satisfied with the results. The finish remained sticky between the parent material and the veneer. |
| A. |
I use and recommend Cold Press from Titebond. It works
well and I can control the procedure. Being prepared is the key to successful
glue up, have everything ready and set up. On a top as yours, I would apply the
glue to both surfaces covering well but not to an excess. I would use a ¾”
piece of plywood and clamping cauls to clamp down the glued material. Use wax
paper to keep anything covered you do not want to stick. I like to leave it
clamped up over night. Good luck.
|
[ Back To Main ]
3/26/2009
Glue Blotch
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
How can I avoid blotch marks on finished pieces of wood after staining over cornered joints that have been glued? It seems after I wipe off the excess glue, the blotch marks show up where the glue was wiped clean. |
| A. |
I prefer
to scrape dried glue rather than wipe wet glue. Wiping wet glue usually drives
it into the wood. Learning the correct amount of glue to use is an acquired
skill that will come with time and practice. I tease my beginning students that
they must own stock in the glue company because they want to use 5 times the
amount needed. A thin “very thin” coat on both faces is all that is need….any
thing more will run out and cause finishing problems. I have seen painters
tape used to cover the surrounding area to prevent glue squeeze out, but this is
a pain and not needed if one learns the correct amount of glue to
apply. |
[ Back To Main ]
3/26/2009
Separating Two Shelves Glued Together
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I wanted to glue edge trim on the face edge of two shelves at the same time. I placed one shelf atop the other, reversing the front of one relative to the other and placed them in a pair of cabinet clamps. After removing them from the clamps and (you no doubt know where this is headed) squeeze-out from one of the strips had effectively glued the two shelves together. Do I pitch them out, or is there a way for a perfectionist to salvage this mistake? |
| A. |
I hate
that when that happens, but we all have done it so do not worry! You might try
using a putty knife and driving a wedge between the pieces to separate. If they
are glued solidly then they are indeed history. Lesson learned move on. If
this doesn’t work…..hide them and do not tell anyone! LOL! |
[ Back To Main ]
10/15/2008
MDF Cabinet Doors
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
Spray painted flat panel kitchen cabinet doors: Is it O.K. to glue 1/4" MDF panels inside a 1/4" groove in 3/4" x 2 1/4" MDF cabinet frames? Does MDF expand and/or shrink? |
| A. |
It's O.K. to glue it together. There is no expansion or contraction issues with MDF. Good luck. |
[ Back To Main ]
10/15/2008
Glue Squeeze Out
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I find it very difficult to prevent any glue that gets squeezed out during assembly from staining the parts. Any solution as to how to get a clean joint? |
| A. |
I prefer to let the glue set until it has skinned over well. Then I use a scraper to clean-up the joint. On the interior joints I dry fit it first and place painters tape where it joint comes together to minimize glue squeeze out. To make sure I have succeeded in removing all the glue, before I start the finishing process, I lightly wipe the area with denatured alcohol, if the is any glue residue left, it will appear. |
[ Back To Main ]
10/15/2008
Gluing Rough Edges
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
When I first started woodworking 50 years ago we were told rough edges like that made by a saw blade were best for gluing edge to edge. Not long ago I read an article stating a smooth edge is best. I generally use yellow carpenters glue and I can't remember having a problem gluing anything. We have a beech cutting board I glued 40 years ago with just a butt joint and it's as strong as ever. What's the straight skinny? |
| A. |
I think the way you have been doing it for 50 years is just fine. If the quality of cut that you getting from your saw gives you a great joint, your done. I would believe what they may have been getting at is, the smoother the edge the less clamping pressure required to achieve and perfect joint. I hope that helped. |
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10/15/2008
Tightbond on Painted Surfaces
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
What about the use of Tightbond III on painted or primed surfaces? |
| A. |
Yellow glues in general need to be applied to open pore woods so the glue can be absorbed into both surfaces to create a bond. |
[ Back To Main ]
8/26/2008
Glue Preference
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
While reading your Q & A about glueing up projects in general, I noticed that you prefer Tightbond 2 & Gorrila Glue. I have been using Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Glue. Is Tightbond a better glue in your opinion or is this just your choice of glue? I use Elmer's because it happens to be the glue that my local hardware store sells. What I know about glue is....it bonds two pieces of wood together. In simple terms, what do I need to know about glue to be a better woodworker? |
| A. |
In my humble opinion …..Wood glue is wood glue. It is what you are comfortable
using and what you know that works for you. Elmer’s is a fine glue. My supplier
happens to carry Titebond so that is what I use. The folks at Gorilla sent me a
case of their new regular glue and it worked very well. |
[ Back To Main ]
8/26/2008
Glues and Tenons
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
When used in a project like a chair, given that the newer glues are stronger than the wood they hold together. It seems to me biscuits would hold as well as tenons, because the glue strength would hold the wood pieces together as if they were one piece of wood. Perhaps there is however a rebar in concrete effect? Could you explain? |
| A. |
It is my humble opinion that the biscuits do not add any strength to the joint
and I use then only as an alignment tool. . Furniture makers have been using the
mortise-tenon joint as far back as the Pyramid builders. The tenon is long
grain and provides a lot of gluing surface and strength. Richard Hoadley in an
article for Fine Woodworking Magazine did several tests on joints with a machine
designed to measure the power it needed to break a joint. The mortise-tenon was
the champ! |
[ Back To Main ]
6/27/2008
Glue Spot Removal on Clamps
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I have a problem with glue. I have dried glue all over my Bessy clamps. How do I remove it? I was thinking about a grinder with a wire but not sure if it would ruin my clamps. Also- Is there some way to remove glue spots on my work? |
| A. |
Good and bad news here. The Bessy clamps are indestructable. Wire brush away. Bad news, the glue spots will be tough. I recommend using a Bacho (formerly Sandvic) hand scraper to make all contaminated glue zones shine. That means refinishing if the finish and stains are already done. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/25/2008
Glue Test
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I use Tightbond II glue, and it sat in the garage for over a year, does the same quality exist as when it was new. It has been in maintained temperatures of approximately 60-70 degrees and never frozen. It seems a little more yellow in color than when new. I had bought a gallon thinking I was going to keep using it. Now I need it again. |
| A. |
All glues age. Here is the simple test for tightbond 1 and 2. Just put a drop of glue on you thumb. Roll it between your thumb and forefinger. If it balls up it is bad. If it speads smoothly it is good. I like simple things that work. This is a solid tip. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/24/2008
Stain/Glue
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
Is it ok to stain (oil stain) the project prier to gluing it together. Provided you give the stain time to dry. |
| A. |
Yes, as long as you don't stain where you are going to glue. Mask the area off first, and then stain. You do not want the stain to fill the pores and the glue can't be absorbed. Good luck. Mike |
[ Back To Main ]
6/24/2008
Cleaning Glue Joints
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
What is the best method of cleaning up excess glue from joints; let it dry and cut it out, wipe with damp cloth before setup, etc.? I am worried that using a damp cloth will spread glue into pores and effect stain and finish later. cutting glue from interior side of joint is not always easy and can leave a little glue behind |
| A. |
All of the above methods I have used. I prefer to let the glue set until it has skinned over well. Then I use a scraper to clean-up the joint. On the interior joints I dry fit it first and place painters tape where it joint comes together to minimize glue squeeze out. To make sure I have succeeded in removing all the glue, before I start the finishing process, I lightly wipe the area with denatured alcohol, if the is any glue residue left, it will appear. Mike |
[ Back To Main ]
5/7/2008
Glue Failures
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
The dresser I made in High School wood shop (1971), is starting to experience glue failure. The problem is that it's in the drawer support frames in the side of the case. Some of the joints are just beginning to come apart. Not all of the joints are separating so it seems I'd be doing damage if I attempted to disassemble in order to re-glue. If I remember correctly we used alaphatic resin glue back then. The wood is Phillipine Mahogany. Any suggestions? |
| A. |
I would try and pull the loose joints open as far as possible without damage and using a glue synge squirt some regular titebond yellow glue into the area. Then clamp the piece up and let it dry. Would a reversing clamp help spread the joints open for glue? Good luck. Thanks for a great question. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/25/2008
Gluing Veneer
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I have been experimenting with marquetry and
find when gluing the different veneers in place they often bubble and distort.
What is the best type of glue to use? It is difficult to clamp as pieces are
often very small and need to be kept tightly in position. |
| A. |
I have seen all types of glue used for
marquetry. I normal use animal hide hot
glue with a glue pot. I find this has a
good tack and does not cause bubbles as easily as other types of glues. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/25/2008
Gluing Up!
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I live where it is
common to see -20 degree cold spells. What is the best glue to use in extreme
colds such as this? I have no heat in my wood shop. |
| A. |
I am sorry. Luckily my shop is
heated in the winter and air conditioned in the summer. I would suggest that
you take your glue ups to the heated house.
Or perhaps you could build a
“hot box” and heat it with a light bulb for your smaller glue ups. Please be careful about starting a fire! |
[ Back To Main ]
2/25/2008
Glue on Pre-Finished Wood Pieces
Answer provided by Marc Adams
| Q. |
Will wood pieces that have been pre finished with Watco Stain hold a
glue joint as well as a piece that has been glued before staining? Pre staining
keeps the joint from showing the glue ooze out. |
| A. |
I never pre-stain anything
before I glue. However as long as the
stain is water based and had plenty of time to dry it won’t make a
difference. Any oil based stain or film
finish would not be good to apply before gluing. Keep the joint clean before gluing. |
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2/19/2008
Removing Paper Glue from Drywall
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
What
kind of sander is needed to remove wall paper glue from drywall? |
| A. |
You don’t use a sander. The way to remove
old is first apply a produce by Zinsser called
DIF GEL. The gel enzymes loosen the dried glue to a paste form, and you wipe it off with a rag. DIF can be
found at any paint store.
|
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2/19/2008
Glue for Joining Cedar
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
Which glue is best to edge join cedar to cedar?
|
| A. |
I use a polyurethane glue, or titebond 3 works
as well. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Titebond 2 vs. 3
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I noticed in two of the answers that you're
recommending Titebond 2. I have been using Titebond 3 and have been happy with
it, but I'm always open to more information. Can you give me background on why
"2" might be preferable to "3"? 90+% of my usage is indoors
where moisture contact isn't really an issue, so the water resistant aspect of
"3" isn't really an issue. |
| A. |
Titebond 3 gives you extended assemble time, and
better for wet-use application over
Titebond 2. Other than that, there’s no real difference. If you’re comfortable with 3, then stick with. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Glue for Veneering
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
What
types of glues are available or suitable for wood veneering? If there is a
preferred method for application and what are the drawbacks for any particular
glues? I am attempting to glue a wood veneer on my cabinets for the first time! |
| A. |
I discussed your
question with David Copher from Timbercreek Design. David does a lot of veneer
work. Now before all the purist gets riled up remember David is a professional
and has been working wood for a living for over 25 years and has a high volume
shop. David uses and recommends regular titebond glue! David has used it for
years with 100’s of projects and no failure. If it works for David I have no
problem recommending it!
|
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
Foodsafe Glues
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
What
glues would be FDA approved foodsafe? I am going to be making a cutting board.
I know that Tightbond III is FDA
approved foodsafe for indirect food. Would this be the same if used for a
cutting board? |
| A. |
Yes! Tite bond is food safe and can be used in a
cutting board without any problems. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
Glue Line
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
Q.
|
Often
when gluing boards together to make panels, the finished product is perfectly
smooth at the glue lines. Months later, with the product finished and in use, a
small step between the pieces emerges, and the panel is no longer perfectly
flat. What causes this "step" to develop? I theorized that it might
be a difference in expansion rates between mating pieces. Even if it is, how do
I avoid it? |
| A. |
Check
the moisture content of the wood to insure proper drying and finish both sides
of your project. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/15/2008
Gluing Pressure Treated Wood
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I
want to make a workbench from Southern Yellow Pine, but there is no source for
it in my area, unless I use pressure-treated lumber. So my question is whether or not it can be
reliably face-glued, and if there are any negatives to using this material for
a benchtop. |
| A. |
Never use pressure
treated wood for interior applications. They contain chemicals that you do not
want to breathe.
You can glue
pressure treated with Gorilla Glue if the wood is dry and clean. Sand lightly,
wipe with mineral spirits, let dry 10 minutes then moisten with a water filled
misting bottle before applying Gorilla Glue. Again, do not use pressure treated
wood inside please!
Southern Yellow Pine makes a fine workbench! |
[ Back To Main ]
6/5/2007
Gluing Up Oak Boards
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q: |
When gluing up oak boards for a tabletop, I am having problems with the end cracking in the glue joint.. I use 3 inch wide boards, 1 inch thick, planed down to 3/4 inch for my table top and use #20 wood biscuits, 3 inches from each end and every 6 inches apart. I use gorilla glue and I brush it on both sides of my joint..... I always clamp the ends and use several clamps in the middle. |
| A: |
Gorilla Glue really likes moisture to help cure. Get out a plant misting bottle of water and moisten the surfaces lightly before putting the glue on one part of the joint. Move the end biscuits to 5”. Plus you only have to brush Gorilla Glue on one part of the joint. Or try Tightbond 2 without the water. Tightbond has to be brushed out on both parts of the joint. Both will work. Best of luck! |
[ Back To Main ]
6/5/2007
Type of Glue to Use?
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q: |
When comparing glues I have noticed that a Polyurethane glue like Gorilla glue, after expanding and drying forms a foam that seems fragile and not very substantial in strength. On the other hand Yellow glues like Titebond 2 dries hard but brittle almost like amber. The Yellow glue seems to me would make a far superior bond. Is this right, or are other factors involved? |
| A: |
I use Tightbond 2 for 60% of my woodworking. I use Gorilla Glue and cyanoacrylate adhesives and epoxy for the rest. I like Gorilla Glue in captive joints because it expands when it cures for better bonding. Edge joints usually go to Tightbond 2. Both are O.K. for moist environments. Both work great when the right amounts are applied to the surfaces being bonded. If the wood is green I stick with Gorilla Glue. Good question! |
[ Back To Main ]
6/5/2007
Preferred Method of Joinery
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q: |
When fastening a leg to a table or chair with side rails, why does it seem that the preferred method of joinery the mortise and tenon, rather than biscuit joinery. If the glue is truly stronger than the wood, it wouldn't seem to matter either way, and biscuits are certainly easier, and faster in many cases. |
| A: |
Both will work. But recently I made a shaker inspired hall type table for a Sony 283 pound T.V. monitor. Believe me, it is a monster to lift. The whole table added up to 27 pounds. The T.V. stood rock solid on the mortise and tenon legs. I would not have wanted to try this with biscuits. My point is that I know that a deeper thick wood joint is better. When in doubt I stick with mortise and tenon joints. Plus the thought of glue being stronger than wood holds true only when the wood grains being glued run in the same direction. Cross grain glue ups eventually fail. |
