Michael Van Pelt is the founder of American Sycamore Woodworker’s Retreat. He has a reputation as the tool guru. Mike has been in woodworking for over thirty years. His knowledge of tools comes from his many years of intertwining experience in the woodworking industry. Mike’s experiences include being active as an Industrial Arts Teacher, professional instructor of power machinery and tool techniques, tool sales, management and owner of woodworking tool retail store, Delta Machinery representative and technical advisory.
If you have a question for Michael, choose the Submit Question button to the right by November 30th. We will send you a reply with Mike's response in mid-December and then post it to this page for other members to view. You never know...someone else may have the same question
IF YOU HAVE A PRODUCT RELATED QUESTION, PLEASE USE OUR CONTACT US FORM FOR AN IMMEDIATE RESPONSE. THIS SECTION IS RESERVED FOR GENERAL WOODWORKING RELATED QUESTIONS.
Listed below are questions and answers that have already been submitted.
Questions
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9/24/2009
Shaping Chisels & Irons
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I've an dual arbor stand upon which I'm planning to attach two different 6" grit stones. I've a 1/2 HP-1725 RPM motor that will drive the arbor. What is the proper speed to drive the grind stones? I've read both fast and slow speeds will be OK but I'm not sure what fast and slow speeds are. |
| A. |
You will be fine with a 1725 rpm motor. I believe that you will find this set up to perform very well. 3450 rpm would be to fast and cause heat build up that may damage your tools. |
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9/20/2009
Paint Sprayers
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Which is the best paint sprayers for applying poly it cabinets? |
| A. |
If you want to mainly spray paint, I suggest that you visit your local professional paint store. My local Sherwin-Williams store sells a variety of sprayers and they are most knowledgeable. Now for spraying wood finishes, I personally own and use an Apollo sprayer that I use to spray stains and lacquer. Visit your local tool supply store and you should find several good machines to choose from. |
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9/9/2009
Workshop Tools - New vs Old
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
My husband passed away a year and a half ago and he left various tools and woodworking equipment. Most of these items are old (maybe by thirty years or so). I want to learn woodworking but wonder if I should keep most of the tools I have, or sell these and buy new ones? |
| A. |
First the age of a tool does not anything, some of the older tools are as good as the new ones. The issue is if the tools are in good repair. If your husband was a woodworker, they are most likely in good repair. I would tell you to start out with what you have, and in the future if you outgrow the old ones, then consider it at that time. |
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6/24/2009
Broken Screws
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Sometimes when installing hinges a screw will twist the head off. What is the best way to remove the screw shaft. I have been drilling along side and prying it out then mud the hole. What about plug hole cutter? |
| A. |
Take a
look at Rockler screw extractors. They make three different sizes and they work
very well. The best thing is they do not destroy the surrounding area and can
be filled with a dowel rod and patched. |
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6/24/2009
Radial Saw vs. Sliding Compound Miter Saw
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I am a beginner in woodworking. What saw would you get radial saw or sliding compound miter saw and what brand? Right now I am on a beer budget but I want a good one. |
| A. |
I would
not buy a radial arm saw. The compound sliding saws have just about made the
radial arm saw obsolete in most home shops. I have a Dewalt compound saw in
the school and we use it everyday and I am very pleased with it’s
performance. |
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6/24/2009
Rabbet Joint
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
What is a rabbet cut on joiner? |
| A. |
A rabbet joint is one of the simplest joints in
woodworking to make. Years ago this joint was often done on a jointer with a
rabbetting edge on the jointer. This practice has been replaced with a router
and a rabbetting bit for speed and safety. Rabbetting bits are usually sold
with a number of bearings and this will allow the user to cut different sizes
and depths. I suggest you visit your library and pick up a good woodworking
book on joinery. Good luck.
|
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6/24/2009
Affixing Sandpaper
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I have need to affix various grits non(PSA) Pressure Sensitive Adhesive Sandpaper to old metal sanding discs. Is there a type glue like my father used some 50 years ago on his lathe disc? It was in a heavy duty paper tube like container about 2 or 3 inch dia. I would like to be able to know name of this type product and where it could be purchased. Thanks for your advice in solving my dilemma. |
| A. |
I recommend 3M™ Super 77™ Multipurpose Adhesive. I use
this product around the shop for many tasks and it works well. It will bond
paper to metal. My local cabinet maker supply store carries it. I remember
seeing the tube product you described at Sears years ago but I have not seen it
available recently.
|
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4/16/2009
Where to Begin
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I'm almost finished building a 21x27 workshop. I have the major tools needed (14" band saw, jointer, large table saw, routers, drill press, etc.). As far as skills, I am much less prepared. I'm thinking that, after safety, the first thing to learn would be joinery. What are your thoughts? |
| A. |
You are right on the money. You know how to prep the material now. The only thing holding you back is on what joints are needed as you build furniture and cabinets. Start with simple biscuit joints and pocket screws. Build a breakfast table or work table first. And your skills will keep building from there. Every project completed teaches you new skills that leads to more choices in your future. Each project is truly a skill Builder. |
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4/16/2009
Make A Jig to Make Dadoes
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
How can I make a jig to make dadoes in the sides of a cabinet with my router? |
| A. |
Is the cabinet already assembled? If not then just buy a clamp and edge guide tool, cutter of choice. Simple, effective and safe. If assembled then cut 3/4" plywood squares and tack with pin nails to hold in place until dadoes are cut. You can pry the "plywood guide off" when done. Impossible to see the nail marks in the case. Simple. |
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4/16/2009
Mobile Bases
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I'm building a woodshop. Do you think it's a good idea to have some power tools on a wheeled stand? Do you have suggestions on making some? Or do you suggest buying 'em from Harbor Freight? |
| A. |
I love mobile bases. It makes my shop so much better. I can rearrange tools to
suit the project on hand and sure makes it nice when it comes to clean up. I
have mobile bases from HTC and from Delta. I avoid Harbor Freight. |
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4/16/2009
Difference in Motors
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
What is the difference between a 15amp. motor and a 3hp. motor? |
| A. |
I could tell you the “answer” by the book but in today’s world and ways of
marketing this is a clouded issue. Most independent belt driven motors are
rated by horse power and you can look on the motor plate and see how many amps
the motor will draw. Most direct drive and hand power tools are rated in amps. |
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4/16/2009
Staining
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
When ever I ask people about staining ,whether to apply stain and wipe it off with a rag or apply a thin coat and let it sit and dry.What is the best method? Also should I sand the stain lightly after each coat or not? |
| A. |
I apply
stain with a cloth and I apply it liberally. I wipe it down when it is pretty
wet and wipe out to prevent marks. On most woods that I am going to stain, I
sand to 120 grit. Anything finer will only close the grain and makes it hard to
stain evenly. I never sand the stain, only between top coats of top finish. |
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4/14/2009
Bearing Lubrication
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Where can I find Teflon based dry bearing spray? |
| A. |
Dry bearing lube Teflon based can be found at www.sherlinedirect.com part #7555
$8.00 |
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4/14/2009
Drills for Woodworking
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I LOVE Porter-Cable tools. Help me make my next purchase. "To impact or not". My passion is woodworking for many years. Don't work with masonry, brick, etc. Am looking at your 18v. drill/driver vs hammer drill. Please give me comparison info on the two so I can make a good choice. Either way, one will be in my shop soon. |
| A. |
There is no need of an impact drill in woodworking that I know of. Visit your
local Porter-Cable dealer and “try one” on for size. How it fits your hand and
the balance. I use 12 volts in my shop and rarely need 18v. Only if I was
driving 100’s of screws such as a deck builder or contractor would I buy an 18. |
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4/14/2009
Forstner Bits
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Which is better the Porter-Cable standard forstner bit (PC1014) or the no spin shank bit (don't have M#) which is 2x faster and provides a cleaner cut? |
| A. |
The PC1014 received a very good score in Roland Johnson’s article on the Fine
Woodworking web site article. Take a look at their site for a in-depth test of
8 major manufactures of forstner bits. I have several sets of the Porter-Cable
forstner bits here at the school and they serve us very well. |
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4/14/2009
Apron
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Where could I find a Leather Apron like the one your wearing in the picture? |
| A. |
Russ & Sharon
Whitmore- Internet Sales
russ@moonshineleather.com
(812)988-4285 Great people and very high quality! |
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4/14/2009
Respirators
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
What kind of respirator cartridge should I be using when spraying water based polyurethane finish? |
| A. |
Please
call my friends at Leonard Safety Equipment in Rhode Island at 1-800-556-7170 and ask them
for there recommendations. You will find them very knowledgeable and most
willing to help and I have found their prices very competitive. |
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4/14/2009
Spirit Levels
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Some spirit levels have two vials in each site glass instead of one, including the plumb vial. These vials are slightly curved (arched)and the arches oppose each other. What is the purpose of this type of spirit level? |
| A. |
I am guessing that you are asking about tubular level vials. Level vials use the
basic fundamental force of gravity. Gravity pulls the fluid media down the the
air space faces up. All leveling tubes must be manufactured using a radius.
Glass tubes are either bent or internally ground to create a radius. Plastic
(acrylic) tubes have the radius molded into the part. Your curved vial is
probably a bent glass vial and the curve must be placed in an upward direction
to work properly. A "best type" level will have apposing bent glass vials
installed to allow for leveling in one direction and 180 degrees in another
direction. |
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4/14/2009
Clamps
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I have an 8" handscrew wooden clamp that won't stay tight. What can I do to fix the problem. In fact both of my 8" clamps won't stay tight. I have no problem with the smaller sizes. |
| A. |
Bad hand screw clamp? What is the brand name on the clamps? Is it Jorgenson
from Adjustable clamp in Chicago? I would call them direct and ask for
assistance. If it is a inexpensive import, I suspect that the screw is
stripped and you need to take the clamp apart and re tap the threads. |
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4/14/2009
Tool Handles
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
#1. I use several wood handled tools that rely on opposing wedges(or combos of wedges). Is there a way to beef up the connection or fill any gaps that will strengthen this attachment? Maybe epoxy or glue of some sort? #2. I use old sheet magnets(sports schedules, business cards) for edge protection on metal tools--does the magnetism cause any problems? |
| A. |
First of
all the magnets will not hurt your tools at all. If you have a tool that is
constantly developing a loose handle I suggest that you drive down the wedge and
fill it with gap filling quick set glue. |
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4/14/2009
Tool to Raise Wood to Recess a Nail
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I once saw a tool in a catalogue maybe ten years ago. This tool would raise a fine sliver of wood and create a recess to place a finish nail. The intact sliver of wood would then be glued and pressed back into place. No need for touching up putty. It's probably more cool than practical but I was wondering if you have seen one or know where to get one. |
| A. |
Yes, I do
know where you could get one….out of my “stupid” drawer. The tools (now all
covered with dust) I bought that sounded cool and but just doesn’t work. Most
of the time the grain was never running in the right direction and it would cut
out a big chunk. Sounds like it would work but is more of a pain than just
filling the nail hole. I looked for the tool on the internet and could not
find one. I believe that they just do not work. |
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4/14/2009
Measurements
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
What is your favored way for getting consistently perfect measurements, as in making lets say many cabinets when you might set and re-set the table saw's fence many times or which ever it may be? Do you use cut piece of wood? |
| A. |
Great question! I am lucky to have a Biesemeyer fence
on my tablesaw and I can not work wood any closer than that fence will produce.
It is exact and square and I can trust it for its repeatability. I never use a
tape measure when doing fine work. I have a set of fine steel rulers that I
use. I also carry a set of calipers in my apron and I use a set of brass set up
bars constituently. I try to work wood as close as I can without being stupid
about it. Do I care if all four legs are 36.00000000000 inches
long….NO!..however I do want all four legs the exact same length and square. I
do try to use the same set up when making like parts. If I do have to come back
to same size I just carefully check the setting before cutting.
I attended a show and lecture by James Krenov once.
Someone asked him why a certain piece of furniture was that size?.....as we
waited for the heavens to open up and the light from God to enlighten us…and the
knowledge from the master to flow into us poor unworthy ones…Krenov simply
says…”The board was laying on top of the pile and the board just happened to be
that wide”
|
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4/14/2009
Woodworking out of my clothes?
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
How do I get woodworking out of my clothes? |
| A. |
I get in trouble all the time with my wife about wearing my good clothes when I
should be wearing my play clothes. I have a constant battle here at the school,
I want to like nice and professional while teaching but I am constantly getting
dirty working wood. I have found that a leather apron protects and keeps me
some what clean. I try to dump my pockets out when using the lathe or shaper
that creates a lot of flying dust and chips. |
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3/26/2009
Voltage
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I will soon be setting up a new shop and will have to add more electrical outlets. I have plenty of spaces in the breaker box. My question is , should I rewire the equipment that is designed for 220? What is the advantage? I have Delta planer, bandsaw, belt sander, & jointer. |
| A. |
In a home shop it really makes on difference, if your machine came wired for
110v leave it. It will be OK! However there is nothing wrong on you heavier
used machines such as your tablesaw to wire it for 220v. Talk with your
approved electrician and follow his advice. |
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3/26/2009
Blade Stabilizers
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I recently purchased blade stabilizers for my Delta Unisaw - as recommended by the New Yankee Workshop. The insert no longer aligns with the blade - did I miss something obvious? |
| A. |
What a
waste of money! The reason blade stabilizers are sold is to increase the profit
of the sale. I normally made around 15 to 20 percent profit on a saw blade but
can make a 100 % mark up on a set of stabilizers. Guess which one the salesman
wants to sell!!! OK…here is the argument for stabilizers…you need them when
using thin kerf blades and cutting a deep cut….guess what? The stabilizers are
now in the way and will not allow for a thick cut! |
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3/26/2009
Which would you buy?
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I am in the process of building my woodworking shop now.I will be buying my machinery in the next few months.What would you buy Delta or Powermatic machinery? I want the best.I always try to buy american products when possible.I live in the Nashville Tn. area and can buy either locally.Please give me your opinion between the two. |
| A. |
Well if
you want to buy American, Delta will have more USA choices than
Powermatic. I believe that their table saws are now all imports since Jet
bought them. I have sold Delta, Powermatic, and Jet equipment for years.
Delta has always given me the freedom and flexibility I needed to take good care
of my customers. I recommend that you buy from your local dealer and discuss
with him the reason you are buying local. You want and will demand good
customer service before and after the sale. I am confident that your Delta
dealer will take good care of you for Delta takes good care of their dealers. |
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3/26/2009
Workshop Machinery
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Having just left the college where I studied carpentry for 2years. I am about to start a business venture. I intend to make kitchen cabinets and doors for home. What are most essential machinery that I will require? |
| A. |
Good Luck! The most essential machinery you will need is
a good line of credit and about $200,000 to run on. I know here in the states
there are daily listings of cabinet and furniture shops closing and liquidating
their equipment. It is a good time to pick up some large industrial equipment
at bargain prices, but can you get enough work to make it? Perhaps the economy
is different in your area so to answer your question on machinery needed:
1. Some way to process panels: panel saw or a table
saw
2. Wide belt sander, edge sander, belt & disc
machine
3. Jointer and planer, drill press,
bandsaw
4. Shapers for door making, stock
feeders
5. Dust collection
6. Air compressor
7. Air guns, hand tools, and
clamps
8. Etc etc etc tooling
Consider very carefully and talk with experts in your
area. Talk with a good financial advisor and become very organized and look
before you leap.
|
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3/26/2009
Twist Drill Sharpening
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Do you have any product recommendation for sharpening twist drills? |
| A. |
The Drill
Doctor! I have one and it works very well! |
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10/14/2008
Pocket Screws
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
Q.
|
I'm thinking of getting a pocket screw system. I have seen many demonstrations of it but can't tell if glue is used. Is glue not required or recommended? |
| A. |
That depends on if you want the joint to be permanent, or not. Pocket hole joinery is an extremely strong joint without glue, it just depends whether you want it to be permanent or not. |
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8/26/2008
Door Hinge Jig
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I am wanting to purchase a door hinge jig that I can rout both the door leaf and the door frame accurately. Have you done any tool tests or do you have a good recommendation for me? |
| A. |
Are you familiar with the Porter-Cable Hinge Butt template kit part # 59381. I
believe that this should meet your needs. |
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8/26/2008
Dado Set
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Just received my 35-7670 dado set and set it up on a crsftsman contractor saw for 23/32. Problem is bottom is not flat, appears one or two of the cutters is deeper that the rest and it is just a little loose in the width. I miced the birch plywood at exactly 23/32. Any suggestions would be appreciated. THIS IS MY FIRST USE OF A DADO! |
| A. |
I also own and use the 35-7670 Dado set here at the school. I have found that
it does cut a flat bottom and delivers a clean cut even on veneer plywood. If
you have a friend with a table saw I would check the dado out on his saw. I had
a customer that had a rough arbor that caused this problem. You could also send
your dado set out to be sharpened and specify that you want a flat bottom cut.
You could also have a defective set that was not ground flat from the factory.
Where did you purchase the set? How old is the set? Proper set up when
installing a dado set is to load the inside blade first followed by the largest
chippers next. Stack out to desired thickness and then the outside blade is
added last. You will want to “balance” your dado set by spacing the chippers
equally around. Be sure that the teeth are not hitting each other. You may
have to add some shims to get to the desired thickness of cut. Good luck! |
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8/26/2008
Unheated Workshop
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I am moving to a different home in northern NJ, and there is a detached unheated garage that I am turning into my workshop. I have Delta table saw, band saw, and drill press, and lots of other hand and power tools. What should I do to protect? Dehumidifier in summer? What about winter? Aside from heating the space, what about keeping bulbs lit under covered machines to chase moisture? |
| A. |
Great question! This is a problem many of us “cold
climate” wood workers face...I would not recommend using a light bulb for heat. I am
afraid of causing a fire. I highly recommend that you insulate your work shop
and invest in climate control. If this is not possible: then I would approach
the problem with protection, prevention, and maintenance. Take a look at HTC
Products Inc. They have a web site. Their machine covers would really help to
protect your investment. Wax all cast iron tops with a good quality paste wax.
I also like and use a product called Boeshield T-9 Metal Protection that should
be part of regular cast iron top maintenance.
|
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6/27/2008
Tape Measures
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I'm looking to purchase flat steel stick down tape measures right to left 12 feet long. Can you help me find a source?
|
| A. |
Google Fastcap.com. They have lots of products like this. |
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6/27/2008
Filler
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I hate throwing away the dust from sanding. Mixing Elmer's and sanding dust was at one time a supposedly good filler material that matched the wood. But Elmer's doesn't stain well. Can the dust be used with another finder that'll stain. Are there other things you can do with the sanding dust, saw dust and planer chips? |
| A. |
Recycle everything is my mantra! So all chips and dust go into walks, gardens, compost piles and even animal habitats. My shop looks like the garden of Eden all because of recycling the wastes outdoors. In my mind this is the best use. |
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6/27/2008
Woodworking Business
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
Scott I have always loved working with wood. My first job was a cabinet maker apprentice. After 12 years at the cabinet shop I took a job and they titled me as a carpenter, where I did that type of work and a lot more, but I always continued doing woodworking projects. As you stated in another letter that I read, once your family & friends know that you do this type of work you can get very busy. Well I did and I didn't because having a family and my own home kept me busy enough. And that leads me to my question. Now that I have taken an early retirement and have the time to do more projects, folks are starting to ask again about me making furniture, cabinets, etc. My problem is developing a fair way to charge these people, and still making a few bucks for myself. Being that it is always a custom this or that because they can't seem to find just what they want at the store.So these things do take a lot of time, than when it's complete, and you figure the material,(which is pretty costly at times) and that leaves me looking for a way to charge for my time. Where it gets tough for me. I know some guys charge the same hourly amount that they got when they punched the clock, which I don't think is fair. I don't care to get rich on these things, but want to be fair to both sides. Any ideas? |
| A. |
Congratulations on setting up your new business. You know you will never really retire. Not with sawdust in you. So here is the way to set prices: find good clients that are as fair with you as you are with them. You will always have work, never get rich but it is very rewarding.Ask them what a fair hourly rate is. Do this in your shop where they can see your work and investment.Fair people expect to pay $20 to $25 per hour. If they are miserly, then move on in a friendly way.Now on to materials, if they ask nore than three times about material costs - they will never be fair with you. Trust has to be at the foundation of all business. If they do not trust you, move on In a very friendly way. You will never need to advertise. Each customer will bring you new ones. Be very fair with yourself. Include shop matience like dust collection cleaning, wood storage, trips to the supplier, utility and tax costs. You will be very busy with great new friends! Wishing you Health, WEALTH and prosperity and the Time to enjoy them! |
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6/27/2008
Biscuits and Humidity
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I am aware that biscuits should be stored at low humidity. I live in a very damp area. What would be the best way to store them? Is there a way to recover biscuits that are already too damp? |
| A. |
If you have to hammer them in aggressively they are too damp. I use zip lock freezer bags stuffed with recycled silicone gel packs available at any electronics supply store. Ask them to snag a few from the dumpster. They work.
|
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6/27/2008
Clamps
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
My question would be, in your opinion what type of clamp system would be best suited for gluing curved arms and legs of of furniture pieces. There are many different ideas and applications out there, but none seem to be adequate enough. |
| A. |
You can not beat duct tape, better yet Gaffer's tape that in less sticky. Be creative and put two pieces of tape together with the sticky faces together. Leave the last 6" still exposed to "stick" the wrapping tape together. It works better than any clamp on the surfaces you mentioned. Short of this try web clamps. The gluing trick is to use an acid brush to size both parts of the joint (spread the glue over the entire surface and into the wood pores) and let it air dry for 2 minutes before putting the surfaces together. This stops the sliding around that can be very frustrating. |
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6/24/2008
Older Woodworking Tools
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I have inherited some older wood working tools made by Delta/Rockwell. Can you direct me to where I can find out approx how much they are worth? I have a Super 900 Radial Arm Saw (ser# CF6670), a Scroll Saw (ser# L-5518), and a combination Table Saw/Planer (ser# 78-1884). These tools are in very good condition, but could be around 40-50 years old. Thank You very much! |
| A. |
I have a great web site for you. This should help you get started in the right direction. http://www.tooltimer.com/ Good luck. Mike |
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6/24/2008
Static Electric Shock
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I have a rigid vacuum attached to a porter cable palm sander. When in use I receive static electric shock. How do I stop the shock? |
| A. |
The only way I know you should receive a shock is if the tool is not grounded properly. Check your tools and the outlet you are using with an outlet tester to make sure it is wired properly. Mike |
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6/20/2008
FF Biscuits
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
What are the physical dimensions for a face frame biscuit? Thank you. |
| A. |
Here is the measurements for the face frame biscuit 1/2" X 1-13/64". Mike |
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6/20/2008
Learn a Craft
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I would like to learn the craft of cabinet/entertainment center/bar/bookcase/etc. making. Could you recommend the fastest way to learn (video courses, seminars, trade schools, other)? I will be retiring next year at the age of 55, and I've always liked the idea of woodworking.
|
| A. |
A great way to start is to learn the basics of cabinet design and construction, types of material used, and basic face frame construction. There is a great soft cover book to start with that will explain this detail. The book is " Building Traditional Kitchen Cabinets" by Jim Tolpin. I know it says kitchen cabinets, but the same building techniques are the same. Also it would be a good idea to take classes at your local Woodcraft Supply Store. Welcome, and good luck. Mike |
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5/7/2008
Resurface or Flatten Wet Stone
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
What can you do to resurface or flatten the wet stone? |
| A. |
Find a good flat surface in your shop. A piece of thick plate glass also works well. They even sell a flattening plate. I have an old cast iron extension wing from a tablesaw that I acquired when I was selling tools that works well. Use a piece of wet-dry sandpaper and grind your stone flat. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/25/2008
Squaring
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Do all woodworkers have a problem squaring small
blocks of wood (5" by 6" or so)?
I bought one of those fancy Incra miter gauges and continually square it
with both the blade and the fence using two squares, framing and
carpenters. Sometimes the corner is
square; most of the time it is a 64th to 32nd of an inch out of square. This makes for open miters. Am I just a poor practitioner, or is this
common?
|
| A. |
This is common and you are not a poor
practitioner, I suspect that your square is at fault. I have never seen a
“square” framing square. They are close
enough to build a house but not enough for setting equipment or joinery work. I recommend that you purchase a good quality
engineer square, perhaps a Starrett or Bridge City
quality. I would also check out my table
saw and make sure everything is square. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/25/2008
Miter Corners
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
How do you get the perfect Mitered corners? I'm
getting ready to redo all the woodwork in my house and I'm very picky about
matching up the corners. |
| A. |
A good quality miter box with the correct blade is
a big step in the right direction and learning to “cope” your miter joints will
help. From a $30K track house to a 3
million dollar custom home….”ain’t no square corners!” |
[ Back To Main ]
2/25/2008
Tools You Favor
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Is there any brand of
tools you like best? |
| A. |
Why of course
there is! Delta and Porter-Cable are my
favorite power tools.
I truly believe that Delta
builds a quality tool and you get your moneys worth. I like the after the sale support I get from
Delta and parts availability. I am also
impressed with the value of my older Delta tools and they certainly have a
higher re-sell value than most other brands.
I love Lie Nielsen hand tools. Bridge City
is my favorite measuring tools. My
favorite clamps are Jorgenson heavy duty bar clamps style 72.
|
[ Back To Main ]
2/25/2008
Lubrication for Gears
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
What can you use to
lube the height and tilt gears? |
| A. |
First blow out any
dust with your air compressor, then I would recommend using a tooth brush and
apply sparingly white lithium grease. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/25/2008
Burn Marks
Answer provided by Marc Adams
| Q. |
What is the best way to remove burn marks when
machining raised panel doors? |
| A. |
Sand, sand, sand. Here are a couple of other ideas.
First let’s try taking lighter passes at a faster pace. Burn Marks are caused
by heat buildup if you move the wood by the cutter to slowly heat builds up and
burns the wood, or as the cutter dulls then the wood is not removed as much as
it is worn away. Next you may try this. If a burn mark occurs sand the very
edge of the panel just a little bit [making the panel ever so slightly smaller]
and make another pass by the cutter. This will usually clean up the burn mark
unless it is very deep. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/25/2008
Spring Back
Answer provided by Marc Adams
| Q. |
How do you find out what the spring back will be for a
bending form? |
| A. |
Spring back is dependent on many factors from the
radius of the bend to the thickness of material to the type of glue and we
could go on and on. Let’s just look at some general rules. In order to prevent spring back you need to
remove the materials ability to return to its original shape. In order to do this you either reduce the
strength of the material such as cutting it into thin strips or / and
use a rigid setting adhesive, I’m assuming we are not talking about
steam bending. The only way I know of to find out how much spring back I will
get off of a particular form is to try one. Then if it is more than what is
acceptable adjustments to the size of material used would be adjusted. I would
use a Urea formaldehyde adhesive such as unibond 800 which cures as ridged as
glass and cut the material thin enough that I can bend it in the form with my
hands to the desired shape. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/25/2008
Woodworking as a Hobby
Answer provided by Marc Adams
| Q. |
I am retired and finally have time to do my favorite hobby-woodworking.
I built a little workshop-and attended a woodworking course at the Yankee School
in Vermont.
But need more help in understanding the terms-seems like every hobby has its
own language. Could you recommend another school as I do not know where your
school is located--or do you know a class that can be completed over the
internet? I have been reading a lot and trying projects on my own. Sometimes I
am a little afraid to use power tools but once I start it becomes a little
easier. I have a little problem understanding how to manage the tool as to
proper settings. |
| A. |
Marc Adams
School of Woodworking is found easily on line at www.marcadams.com We are the largest woodworking school in the
world. I suggest that you take a Joinery
class or a Basic Woodworking class first.
We are located just 20 miles south of Indianapolis, Indiana. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/25/2008
Silver Chest Lining
Answer provided by Marc Adams
| Q. |
I have a small tool chest of solid wood that I
would like to line the drawers with anti tarnish cloth for silver. What is the
best adhesive to use and still maintain the soft cloth surface? |
| A. |
Try a practice piece with
rubber cement or an inexpensive spray adhesive like 3M-spray 77. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/22/2008
Board End Square
Answer provided by Marc Adams
| Q. |
My question has to do with board end square. I
like to make doors using the Festool Domino and 2" Rail and Stile. I seem
to get some dead square and some less than perfect on the same setup. Can you
offer any advice for being able to get better consistency? I get everything
flat and square on the jointer/planer first. I have tried sleds and now am
trying to get a Jessem masteR slide table to produce better quality. At first
it was great but now results vary greatly. |
| A. |
Wood movement, moisture
content, and open grain internal stresses are just a few things that are going
on in every piece of wood . When you combine that with saw blade movement and
dust particles as well as each piece being held separately, it does make since
that each cut could very. Even pressure, steady cutting and being consistent
with each piece will help. Take in consideration how you hold a piece of wood
with a slight bow up or down or even a long or short piece. Each one would be
held differently to achieve the same cut. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Jig Saws
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
What are the differences between an ordinary
jigsaw and an orbital jigsaw? I have read that an orbital jigsaw has the
capabilities to scroll sawing? Is that true? If so, therefore can I dispense in
not buying a benchtop scroll saw to do some intricate curves and/or figures? |
| A. |
A jig saw of any kind will never do the job of a
scroll saw. They are two different animals.
When they say a jig saw can do scroll work, what the really mean is contour cutting. You can cut patterns,
circles and wavy lines. The blades for a jig saw
are rigid and can get as small 20 tpi and 3/16” wide. A scroll saw spiral blade is flexible and has 46 tpi and a
width of 1/16”. Now, a standard jig saw
the blade has a up and down movement like a reciprocating
saw only, and with a 20 tpi tooth blade will produce a very smooth cut. An orbital jig saw does the same as a
regular jig saw, but when placed in the orbital
mode the blade moves up and down and in a forward motion at the same time making it very aggressive |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Woodcarving
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
Do you plan to have woodcarving on any of your
shows? |
| A. |
You can check the web site for the Woodworking
Shows @ www.thewoodworkingshows.com. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Beginning Woodworking Class
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
My wife and I want to take beginning woodworker
classes and gradually expand our skill level. What classes or content should we
take and where can we find same? We have a few tools including a table saw but
not much more. In fine wood working our skill would be a beginner but in
remodeling our skill would be between intermediate to advanced. |
| A. |
There are a few choices here. You can check with
your Jr. Colleges in the area, they
usually offer adult continuing education classes. Your locale Woodcraft Supply stores also offer on site classes
for woodworkers of almost any level as well.
You can also check out an excellent woodworking school, this one may require you to travel, depending on where
you live. That school would be Kelly Mehler’s School of Woodworking.
His web site is www.kellymehler.com. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Veneer Repair
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I am restoring a cedar chest that has a walnut
veneer (approx. 1/32 thick) that has a couple of small damaged spots on the
front & side. I removed the veneer from the top because it was to far gone
but can use it for the repair of front & side. Can I use a contact cement
or am I better off with a carpenters glue & clamps? |
| A. |
I think you would be better off with glue and
clamps, it affords you time to work with
it. Contact cement would work, but if your not use to using it, it can be very unforgiving. If you’re not on the money from the start, you’re in
trouble. The second it touches, it’s stuck. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Edge Angles
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
Somewhere there must exist a table depicting the
proper cutting edge angles for : Chisels, plane irons, joiner knives and
planner knives. Please advise. |
| A. |
I haven’t seen a table per say, but I own a Tormek sharpening
machine. Tormek has a “pro
angle master” which is used to find any existing cutting edge angle. Rockler
Hardware stores and Woodcraft Supply stores carry the Tormek System.
It
might be worth your time to go look at this gauge. I know you can just purchase the “pro angle master separately”.
Their web site is www.tormek.us.
|
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Tools for the Visually Impaired
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
My husband has his workshop in the basement.. He
has 1/2, I have the other half...with the furnace, etc. so I don't really have
half! Anyways, can you give me some
tips as to how to adjust his tools & techniques since he is losing his
vision and so far, so good, but I need to keep a step or two ahead of him. He's lost a lot of "freedoms" with
his condition, he needs his handwork!
He is younger than most people that have lost their vision & still
has some, but he has a long life ahead of him! |
| A. |
found a site on the internet call Woodworking
Resources- American Foundation for
the Blind. They have some information that would help greatly. You can find it by typing (tools for the visually
impaired) in the search window in Google, then click
on Woodworking Resources-American
Foundation for the Blind. I hope this
will help you. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
90 Degree Miter Cut
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
When cutting a 90 in 1 x 2 oak, to make a 4
sided frame the corners don't match up on one side but do on the other three,
nice and tight. What do you think is
happening? Although all for sides
measure the same one appears to be a hair to long. |
| A. |
You say only one side does not match up. On the
3 corners that do, try putting your
square in the corners that match up and I’ll bet there not 90 degrees. I would say
your saw is not cutting on a true 90 degree. Try resetting your miter gauge to your blade and use a square you know
is accurate. Then try cutting the frame again
and I think you will have better results. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Mortise & Tenon Jig
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
When using Delta mortise & tenon jig what
saw blade would you recommend? A ripping
blade or a cross-cut? |
| A. |
Use your everyday 40 tooth combination blade
will work just fine. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Joining Plywood
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I am making a desktop and would like to join 2
pieces of plywood together. What is the
best way to get a nice tight joint? |
| A. |
It’s hard to answer the question because I’m not
sure if it would be edge od end joining.
Also what is the overall size and thickness of material you are using, or if you are going to veneer the top once you’re
done. So, there is an internet site that would
be better for you to go to. All the scenarios are answered there. In the search window type, Making plywood scarf and
butt joints. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Crosscutting
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I run a small one man cabinet shop. I bought a no name panel saw a couple of
years ago that has given me nothing but trouble. I need to be able to cross cut large panels
of plywood without excessive tearout and with accuracy and repeatability. Price
of course is of some concern. What do you
suggest? |
| A. |
If you’re not looking to buying a new expensive
panel saw, then what I would suggest
would be to do what I currently do. That is, spend around $80-$100 on a real good 60 tooth combo blade for your table
saw. If your rip fence is pretty accurate,
then this would be your best bet. I have been cutting plywood since day one and am very happy. Forrest blades
have been my stable for years, and just lately
I have had some great experiences with the new blades from Delta. I think you would be happy with either. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Woodworking Assumptions
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
Being a new woodworker my confusion comes in
when I start a project say a small table and the instructions for the table leg
say: cut a 1/4 groove 1/4 deep centered on edge. No explanations only
assumptions you know how to do this! I like many woodworkers run into this on
every project we tackle. There should be a book or course on how to rabbet, cut
grooves etc. Please give me some advice. |
| A. |
You are correct, in the woodworking world things seem to be
assumed quite a bit.
My
suggestion would be to go to your local Woodcraft Supply store, they have a great sales staff that’s well trained
and help you find the right book or books from their
selection to help you out. They also offer woodworking classes on site that you might benefit from as well. I hope
this help you.
|
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Internet Woodworking Schools
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I’m
retired and I will like to take classes of woodworker. Do schools exist by
internet? |
| A. |
You
can look on the internet at WoodNet.net, this maybe what you are looking for. Also, go to your local
Woodcraft Store, they have a great selection of books on woodworking and they also offer classes on site for new
woodworkers. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Tenoning
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
What
kind of special home-made accessories do you use when using the tenoning jig? For
example, when cutting lots of the same dimension tenons, or when measuring to
set up the tenons, or when going back to cut the same dimensions, or when
cutting complex angle tenons? Is there something special to consider when
laying out / fitting tenons of different species woods, e.g., does one wood
have to fit tighter than another? |
A.
|
I
carry my dial calipers in my apron pocket and use them 100’s of times every day
when working in the shop. I also use
daily my brass set up bars. I try to
work wood as close as I can and when cutting a mortise & tenon joint I want
a good slip fit that I can push together by hand regardless of specie of wood. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Schools
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Can
you recommend a school that would take 5 days that will teach a person how to
use a router, planer, band saw, and possibly how to spray urethane? I know
nothing about wood, and have worked with metals all my life, so this is
something new for me. Web Pages, phone numbers with address would be
appreciated. |
| A. |
Please
visit Delta’s web site and you will find several woodworking schools
listed. Check them out. Of course I am partial to American Sycamore
Woodworkers' Retreat. My school is 6
years old and we also offer private one-on-one classes to meet the special
needs of our guest. We offer over 50
classes through out the year and we have our own quest house here on the
property. Take a look at www.mywoodworkingschool.com. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Joints
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I'm
looking for a good joint to put a panel in a square table frame. What I've used
before is a 1/2 lap. I don't feel that this is my best option. |
| A. |
A
half lap is an acceptable joint giving one a great glue surface. I would recommend a mortise & tenon. The strongest would be a traditional mortise
& tenon. You can use machinery or
you can cut and chop them out by hand. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
Wood Puddy
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Everytime I go to use wood puddy it is dried
out. Anyway advise on to keep it from
drying out? |
| A. |
I am a big fan of FamoWood. You will want to buy a can of solvent to add
to keep the filler moist. Keep the lid
tightly sealed at all times. I buy the small cans of famowood, the larger cans
dry out before I can use it up. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
Magnetic Switch
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Just
bought an old Crescent 20" band saw. I need to wire up the motor and need
a switch. I'm having a hard time finding a magnetic switch like you would find
on modern machines. Any idea where I can get one? I have several motors to
choose from ranging from 1/2 HP to 1HP, all single phase. 1/2HP is 110V and the
1HP is 220V. |
| A. |
Congratulations
on buying that lovely piece of cast iron vintage machine. I suggest that you visit Old Woodworking
Machines www.owwm.com. You will find a
wealth of information and most likely other owners of the same Bandsaw you have
that will be able to help. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
Clamping
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I
need to edge clamp 2 - 8' long boards cut on/with a bevel (the boards will
resemble the shape of a "V" and each board is cut at 56 1/2 degrees).
I made a gluing jig to hold the stock in place at (hopefully) the proper angle
when gluing. But, (1) how do I clamp the boards. Bar clamps and other regular clamps just
don't seem to work. (2)Is there jig that I can make and use? |
| A. |
Take
a look at Lee Valley Tools and see if the spring clamps and pliers would do the
job for you. The clamps will leave a
small divot in the wood but it can be sanded out easy enough. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
Mount a Vise Under a Workbench
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
What
is the best way to mount a vise (metal woodworking vise) to a workbench? The workbench top is maple - about 1.75"
thick with steel legs and supports. The
vise is a 7" vise with what appears to be two holes for screws and two
"partial holes" for other screws (lag bolts?) with the tightening
screw extending beyond the mounting piece. |
| A. |
I
would use 1 ½” lag bolts. I suggest that
you pre-drill and lube your lag bolts with wax to help drive them into that
maple top. I suggest that you use a
ratchet by hand and no power drive that night strip out the lag bolt or worse
yet break it. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/15/2008
Removing Moth Ball Smell
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I purchase an
antique blanket/hope chest for my mother but upon opening it up, I get the nice
smell of moth balls.
I am stumped as to
how to get the odor out.
Any help at all would be appreciated. |
| A. |
Go
buy some turpentine and wipe it down on the inside. Let it air out for two
weeks after the cleaning. Wear finishing gloves while cleaning. Work in a
well-ventilated place. This will take care of 97% of the smell. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/15/2008
Joining Boards to Make up a Panel
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
When
you need to join boards to make up a panel, are there any good pointers to get
the grain to match or at least look decent? I have had trouble doing this, it
looks not bad when I start joining them but after finishing the panel it's not
what I was expecting. |
| A. |
First
match the color. Then make the grain flow together by mixing the direction of
the surface boards for the best look. The edge joints should flow together.
Naturally the straighter and more square the edges – the better the looking the
joint! |
[ Back To Main ]
2/15/2008
Rafters
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
Is
there a simple way to figure the angles for rafters? |
| A. |
Use
a framer’s square. All the measurements and angles are etched on the newer
ones. Look at several different makes. Some are more completely labeled than
others. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/15/2008
Pocket Screw
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
When
I use pocket screws to assemble frames with walnut wood I frequently have a
split in the wood. I also need to send the project through a sander to get a
proper match on the mating pieces. I do use clamps to hold the parts & am
somewhat puzzled by all the difficulties. |
| A. |
Hard dense woods
will do this. My trick – I pre drill pilot holes with a 5” long undersized
drill bit in a cordless drill. This eliminates all problems. It works!
|
[ Back To Main ]
2/15/2008
Oak Floors
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I
have 3/4" t&g solid oak floors with a natural finish that are about 15
years old. They nailed and glued
3/4" plywood over the floor joists; placed 15# felt and nailed the 1
3/4"pieces down. The problem: in
heavy traffic areas, they squeak, it is not the flooring against the ply, but
rather where the ply has come loose from the joists. I have a full, unfinished basement, therefore
access to the underside. I know theat on
method of repair is to place screws through the flooring and into the joists,
however I don't want screws showing throughout the home. Is there some way to eliminate the squeak
from underneath, perhaps by placing new glue between joist and ply? |
| A. |
If
you are pretty handy, try this. Get someone upstairs to stand and make the
floor squeak. Drive the proper length screw through the basement subfloor into
the squeaky zones. This works if you can screw from the bottom up. Plus you do
not see the screws on the surface of the flooring. You need to buy a 6” square
screw driver extension for a cordless drill to reach the tough spots. Square
drive screws work best because they are much easier to drive. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/15/2008
Squareness
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I've built a cross-cutting sled, but I'm having a hard time getting the
fence, exactly 90 degrees to the blade. At the end of an 18'cut, it's off about
1/64" from square. Am I wasting my time trying to get it more perfect than
that?
I have a similar question re: carpenter squares.
Most are not, exactly, square. Considering wood movement, etc., how perfect
does it have to be to make a quality piece? |
| A. |
The cross cut sled should be perfect. If not, then the fence must be
squared to the saw blade then locked in place. So get a good square. The square
must be perfect.
Buy one, and never drop it. Each drop to the
floor progressively changes the square. That is why framer’s squares are
usually not that square. Too many falls from grace. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/15/2008
What causes snipe?
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
What causes snipe? I get it on my jointer, my planer, and my
drum sander. I read all sorts of stuff and try all sorts of trick without much
success. On my jointer, I think it is
because the in feed table is two high because as soon as the wood leaves the
in-feed is snipes. On my planer I think
it is because it leaves the first hold down roller so at that moment there is
less pressure holding the work down, so the wood rises up and gets sniped. The
same thing with the rollers on the drum sander.
Usually I run longer boards then I need, but after the second run
through the machine, the snipe get longer and longer..Argggggg
|
| A. |
Planer Snipe usually is when the cutter head
lifts a board off the table. The jointer snipe is probably because the outfeed
table is slightly lower than the height of the cutter head knives. Use a magna
jig to fix this. Snipe usually stops when the board stays flat to the table.
If both infeed and outfeed rollers of a
planer hold the board flat to the table - No snipe. So trick the board into
staying flat to the table during infeeding and outfeeding by lifting gently on
the overhanging end of the board. Follow all manual instructions! Not all
planers are created equally. Planers that have locking cutter heads just produce
less snipe. So lock the head before making planning passes. Are you making
light passes? Try taking two or three light passes instead of one heavy pass.
The heavier the cut, the more the risk of snipe. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/14/2008
Measuring
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
In my 40 plus years of woodworking, I still end
up with small gaps on shelf ends when retro-fitting shelves into a carcase
(Bookcase, cabinet, etc.) I have tried
at least 30 different measuring techniques and tools, I've tried cutting on and
either side of my pencil mark and still you can get 3 or 4 sheets of paper in
the gap on one side or the other.
Everyone says it looks fine and I'm too picky but I want it perfect! What's your technique? |
| A. |
I like to use a tell or story stick for these
perfect fits. Find a ¼ cut piece of flat and arrow straight wood about ¾” thick
and 2” wide. Use it like a rule and scribe a crosscut line with a scratch awl.
Make the cutoff by leaving the scratch on the “story” stick. Now transfer this
length to your work pieces with the story stick. Cut to length by just shaving
this scratch away. Perfect cuts every time! |
[ Back To Main ]
2/14/2008
Cabinet for Tools
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I
ONCE SAW A CABINET THAT HELD A JOINTER AND A PLANER IN ONE. THE TOP ROTATED. ANY IDEA WHERE I SAW IT? |
| A. |
Inca
made this years ago. It is a fine tool but very pricy. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/14/2008
Low Angle Block Planes
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
Please
give us your tips for sharpening a low angle block plane plus some tips on how
to best use this tool. |
| A. |
In a nut shell : Make all plane bevels flat and shiny from the heel to
the cutting edge with the fine grit DMT diamond stone (red color) then hone the
same bevel (just match the angle on the bevel the whole way – no micro bevels)
with a 1200 grit diamond (green color) or ceramic stone. The edge will be
shaving sharp. Use tap water to lightly lubricate the sharpening stone
surfaces. When done, use a cloth or paper towel to wipe the plate clean when it
is still damp. A loaded up plate stops working.
Any plane works better on hardwoods if the mouth
of the plane is closed down to about 1/16”. A larger mouth opening leads to
shaving jams. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/14/2008
Masonite Templates
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I
sometimes use masonite for templates with my router. I have not found any type
of marker that I can use that has (GOOD)visibility when I lay a pattern out
prior to cutting. DO YOU HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS! Or do you have any suggestions
for an alternative material to use for the patterns. |
| A. |
I
like to use white marking pencils available from any good office supply store.
The white “graphite” shows up much better on dark woods and materials like MDF.
It is softer so it requires frequent sharpening for fine line work. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/14/2008
Formica
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I have an existing formica counter top.
We want to freshen it up. Can I
score it and install new formica over it with contact cement?
|
A.
|
Absolutely
the way to go if the original Formica is solid to the substrate! Use 80 grit,
rough it up and you are in business! Plus you will save a boat load of money on
this counter top by doing it this way. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/14/2008
Angles
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
How
do you find the angles for 5or more sided projects? |
| A. |
Divide
360 by the number of sides. Then divide by 2 for the miter angle. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/14/2008
School
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
Can your recommend a one or two day school where I can learn to use a
router, planer & jointer?
|
| A. |
Depending
on where you live, here are some choices: Ernie Conover Workshops, Center For
Furniture Craftsmanship with Peter Korn, Marc Adams School, Arrowmont, Anderson
Ranch, or any woodworking club in any larger community in America. Hope this
helps! |
[ Back To Main ]
2/14/2008
Flat Panel TV Stand
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I
was going through your plans on woodworking projects. I would like to build a furniture quality
flat panel tv stand. Overall dimensions
are 65" wide, 24" high and
15" deep. In the middle, an
18" adjustable open shelf (it is possible for adding smoke glass swinging
doors) for components, on either side a raised panel door. Inside of each door would be 3 or 4 pull out
drawers for CD, tapes, operation manuals etc.
Exposed material would be medium stained red oak with birch drawers??? Have you got anything like that or can you
put drawings together for such an item.
That would really be a cool benefit to have to utilize your/my tools. |
| A. |
I
like your thoughts here. I do not have a plan like the one you are interested
in. Sorry about that. Perhaps in Season 15. Woodcraft magazine just came out
with a really good entertainment center project. It is worth checking out! |
[ Back To Main ]
8/6/2007
Replacement Tool
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q: |
I have a
cordless precision reciprocating tool(that handles small files or sandpaper)
made by mht products inc. in new berlin, wisconsin.the batteries are dead and i
can not find anything on the internet about this company.some business`s in new
berlin never heard of them. can you point me in the right direction to find
replacement batteries or where i might
purchase a replacement tool. thanks in advance for any help you might
provide.
|
| A: |
I also
struck out! I called the Chamber of
Commerce in New Berlin WI and got nowhere. MHT must be out of business. Perhaps some of our readers might be able to
shed some light.
|
A:
|
The artical of 8-6-07,looking for batteries for MHT tools.I have an address for replacement batteries.Web,www.interstateall battery.com.Phone # 802-658-9110.Address
Champlain Valley Interstate All Battery Center
Williston,VT.
E-mail,battery@ sover.net
I hope this helps you out in some way.
Have a great day,Jack Frost
|
[ Back To Main ]
8/6/2007
Shopsmith
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q: |
I recently inherited a shop smith from my late
father-in-law and was just wandering what you can tell me of its capabilities. I'm
new to woodworking but looking to getting started soon. He also left some other
tool that I'm familiar with. |
| A: |
Great tool, I have one myself! A Shopsmith is how I got started in
Woodworking. The Mark V is a good piece of equipment with some reservations and
“weak spots”. The lathe is a good lathe,
the drill press function is very nice, the horizontal drilling function is very
useful, the sanding disc is valuable, but the table saw function is the weakest
part. With a small tilting table you will find this
to be very frustrating when working with anything other than small pieces. I suggest that you consider adding a tablesaw
to your work shop. Owning a good
tablesaw and combine with your Mark V you will be able to build a variety of projects. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/29/2007
Putting Hinges on Products
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q: |
What is a good way to place hinges on projects?
Small and large projects. |
| A: |
Put the hinges on the door first then center the
door in the space. Mark the hinge location on the vertical stiles. Chisel it in
or use no mortise half wrap hinges.
|
[ Back To Main ]
6/29/2007
Starter
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q: |
I like to start a workshop
in my basement, what would be the best power tools to begin with, and am not a
wood working professional but am a beginner, can you give me your advise. |
| A: |
Start with either a table
saw or a band saw. Both tools give you tons of options. It just depends on what
type of projects you want to make. Then buy a wood lathe, a workbench and a
router for a router table. Do not overlook a good planer and jointer too. You
can tell that I love my woodworking! |
[ Back To Main ]
6/29/2007
Clock Gears
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q: |
I am building an all wooden clock with wooden
gears. Is there router bits any where that will cut the gear teeth, or do you
know of a way to cut the teeth with a router? Thank you for your time. |
| A: |
The source is Beal Tool Works. J. D. Beal is the
designer with the information you need. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/29/2007
Making Slide Through Slots
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q: |
Need an easy way of making slide through one
eight inch slots for inserting horizontal dividers which are twelve inches
apart in the vertical. Need to align each slot so dividers will be level when
inserted. |
| A: |
How about using a slot cutter on a router table? You
can buy the 1/8 inch cutter and use it in a fence with a guard. It is always
necessary to use the push blocks and push stick to safely complete these tasks.
It helps to cut the slots in the edges of wide stock first then rip off the
thinner rails after they have been slotted.
|
[ Back To Main ]
6/29/2007
Drill & Counterbore
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q: |
I need to make a drill & counterbore and
they need to align properly. I’m having a problem getting them centered on each
other. They are in a ¾” thick piece of plywood approximately 24” square so it’s
not very easy to mount into my drill press. Could you please help me with this
procedure? |
| A: |
Jim a company name Fuller makes matched sets of drill bits
with counter sinking and boring collars attached. You can drill both holes in
one action with these bits. Dewalt also sell a kit for this. They are real time
savers.
|
[ Back To Main ]
6/29/2007
Roofing
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q: |
Hello, I need advice on a roofing prodject.I'm
attaching a porch to a 79 trailer. I want to have a small pitch to it . What
would be the best way to tie it in to the exsiting trailer roof? |
| A: |
You need to make certain that this is done
safely. WIND CAN GET UNDER THIS AND WREAK HAVOC. Without seeing this I honestly
can not direct you with this project. Please contact a local contractor for
help with this. It is a tricky job that has to be done to code. Be safe!! |
[ Back To Main ]
6/29/2007
Twin Screw Vise Installation
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q: |
Hello, I am wondering if you have seen any
articles on installing a twin screw vise at the end of the workbench; I
understand that the installation can sometimes be tricky. If I had some advice
or instruction in a magazine article, that would be great. Have you seen such an
article? |
| A: |
Indeed this is tricky. The vise will work O.K.
if it has a hole drilling template. Check this out before you buy it. The hole
locations for these ¾” screws will determine if the jaws will close flush. I
have mounted many sets without problems. I bought mine at Woodcraft. Woodsmith
has an issue on building you own bench that covers vise installations. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/29/2007
Nailing MDF
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q: |
I am a new owner of a power nailer and
would like some suggestions on appropriate nails to be used on MDF wood.
I'm using a finish nailer 2.5 inch nail on 3/4 inch MDF for construction of a
bookcase. When the air presser is reduced, so that the nail head is
even with the top of the vertical board, the shelf board cracks. Any
suggestions would be appreciated. |
| A: |
I recommend going to a 2 inch
glue coated nail. This should solve the splitting and still give you the
strength you desire. I also strongly recommend gluing all joints before
nailing.
|
[ Back To Main ]
6/26/2007
Support for 48" Wide Shelves
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q: |
I'm about to build some simple (adjustable)
shelves - 48" wide by 20" deep - in a closet space 50"
wide and 60" high with 4 or 5 shelves.
I thought of using 3/4" birch plywood 48" wide as shelf material with
3 vertical supports - probably 2" x 4" - on the sides.
Although the existing material that will be housed is not all that
heavy,
I have to look to future heavier things that will be likely be stored.
Any general rules for of center supports?
Instead of the adjustable vertical metal slots, I'm thinking of
1" x 1" horizontal wood strips as shelf supports...
Any thoughts on that and better ideas?
I'm a slightly experienced novice - my tools are table saw, planer,
router. |
| A: |
My general rule is 35 pounds of
load for each 6 inch support and 775 pounds for 8” brackets. I know that all
shelf supports must be fastened to studs to do the job right. And I never go
more that 2 feet between shelf brackets. Ideally 16” on center into studs.
I think your 1 inch strips will work
fine if the are fastened into studs, but expect sagging over time if you do not
beef up the front edge with glued and screwed 1 x 2s.
SCHULTEstorage.com makes a French cleat design that I
really like a lot. Work looking at. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/5/2007
Homemade Vacuum Press Kit
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q: |
I have seen on the Internet, that it is possible to make a homemade vacuum press kit from a refrigerator compressor and some other accessories.
I have an extra 3/4 horse power motor lying around the shop. Is it possible to make this compressor kit from just the motor and all the accessories. Since the fridge compressor is a motor as well, you would think that this could be done? Is it possible? And if so, do you have the answers? |
| A: |
Yes all things are possible. Yet your proposition creates images of Rube Goldberg being vacuumed into your device. I have not made a vacuum press but understand that the key is the heavy mil bag. In the last year I believe Woodworkers’ Journal did an article on a shop made press. In my May Pro write up for Delta I will have a more definitive answer for you Jay. In veneer work vacuum presses are fantastic! |