^{My finish of choice is lacquer.  It is quick and easy and since you have a sprayer I would recommend lacquer.  I love the finish and the look and the protection it gives with out looking like plastic.} 

^{Veneer….I normally do hammer veneering.  If I did a lot I would have a vacuum bag set up.  Do a google on veneer sources and you will find a lot of mail order companies.}

^{I will refer you to Fine Woodworking #135 with Jeff Jewitt and also recommend that you pick up a copy of his book.  The book is an excellent read with great illustrations written in plain understandable layman terms.}

Follow these steps to remove water spots from Wood:

• Rub the stain with petroleum jelly or boiled linseed oil.
• Repeat application until stain vanishes.
• Use a chamois to finish polishing the surface.

^{I highly recommend that you pick up a copy of Bob Flexner’s book Understanding Wood Finish.  This book contains a wealth of good practical information.}

^{I have always built the piece and then finished it.  When I worked in the cabinet shop we always stained the raised panel door edges before assembly.  I believe it is just personal choice and depends on your particular building habits and style of workmanship. It is one of the hardest things to teach new wood workers is the correct amount of glue to use.  My students believe I am being stingy with the glue when I tell them they are using too much glue,  but as you well know glue run out can sure make a project look bad.}

I did some research on the internet and found the following information on the DIY network.   I hope this helps!  Thank-you!

Furniture refinishers--wax-free solutions containing a blend of solvents such as lacquer thinner, denatured alcohol and mineral spirits--are a good choice for removing varnishes such as shellac and lacquer. To determine whether a particular finish can be dissolved with furniture refinisher, perform this test: Moisten a cotton ball with a small amount of solvent-based fingernail-polish remover, and rub it on a small area of the finish. If the cotton ball turns brown, the finish is dissolving--indicating that it can be removed with a furniture refinisher.

Furniture refinishers contain no wax and evaporate quickly, so it's best to work on small sections at a time.

Pour furniture refinisher into a shallow pan, and dip in a soft cloth. Rub the moistened cloth over the old finish until it begins to dissolve (figure G). Rinse the cloth in the refinisher and continue rubbing. If the finish is particularly difficult to remove, switch to a pad of fine or medium steel wool dipped in refinisher. Finally, wipe down the surface with a soft cloth dipped in clean refinisher.

^{I love to distress furniture to make it look old and worn.  I beat it with a chain, smack it with a wrench, carve into it, and anything else to give it a used worn look.  I soften the edges with a sander and try to give the piece a soft warm look.  I would then stain the unit and then apply several coats of a high quality lacquer.}

There is a web site that addresses your issue. The web site is,
www.pine-door.com/order/finishguide.htm , this should answer all your needs.

That’s a hard question to answer, I would first need to know if it’s just the top coat (shellac, etc.), the color but the grain is still there, or all the way to the bare wood. Try this, go to a book store (Borders, etc,) and look for the book by Michael Dresdner call The New Wood Finishing Book.  All three scenarios I mentioned are in there, choose the one you have and it will give you the fix for it. That would be the best thing I can suggest.

I would first use an air gun across the surface to remove dust from deep in the    pores, and then I would use a damp cloth to wipe the project down. Using any kind of solvent to clean the surface, you stand a chance of contamination. Contamination problems, such as fisheye or streaking, usually occur with water-based finishes. It’s rare to see problems with solvent or oil-based coating. I hope this answered your question.