Michael Van Pelt is the founder of American Sycamore Woodworker’s Retreat. He has a reputation as the tool guru. Mike has been in woodworking for over thirty years. His knowledge of tools comes from his many years of intertwining experience in the woodworking industry. Mike’s experiences include being active as an Industrial Arts Teacher, professional instructor of power machinery and tool techniques, tool sales, management and owner of woodworking tool retail store, Delta Machinery representative and technical advisory.
If you have a question for Michael, choose the Submit Question button to the right by November 30th. We will send you a reply with Mike's response in mid-December and then post it to this page for other members to view. You never know...someone else may have the same question
IF YOU HAVE A PRODUCT RELATED QUESTION, PLEASE USE OUR CONTACT US FORM FOR AN IMMEDIATE RESPONSE. THIS SECTION IS RESERVED FOR GENERAL WOODWORKING RELATED QUESTIONS.
Listed below are questions and answers that have already been submitted.
Questions
[ Back To Main ]
9/27/2009
Cutting Multiple Blanks
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I manufacture racks with multiple slots for holding fishing rods. I am currently cutting these out one at a time from 1/2" plywood with a saber saw and then routing each slot. Do you have any suggestions on how I might speed up my process and cut multiple blanks at the same time? |
| A. |
I would double stick 4 pieces of ½” ply together and use a bearing bit in a router table and with a template and cut four at a time. You will need a ½” collet router and I suggest that you use a ½” up cut solid carbide spiral router bit with at least a two cutting length. Check out Whiteside Router Bits.
|
[ Back To Main ]
9/24/2009
Geometry
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
How do you determine the radius or the diameter of a circle if you know the length of a chord (the distance from one point on an arc to another point on an arc) and you know the rise from the center point of the chord to the highest point of the arc. This information is useful in making trim for arched doors and windows where the arch is only part of a circle. |
| A. |
http://progressivewoodworks.com/Site_Pages/Services_Pages/Fabrication/Circular%20Arch.htm
Above is a link to the best Arch calculator on the internet. Set up free
by a cabinetmaker/geek. It is fast, easy and accurate, and will give more
data than just the simple formula.
Find The Radius of an Arc
Two ways
Method 1 2 x A x Y = A2 + B2
A
½ B ½
½centerline
A=11
B=40
2 x A x Y = A2 + B2
22 x Y = 121 + 1600
22Y = 1721
22 = 22
Y = 78.23
¨ Method 2 R= C² + 4A² C=2xB
8A
C² = 80x80 = 6400 (4 x 11²)=484
6400+484=6884
6884 = 6884 = 78.23
8 x11 = 88
|
[ Back To Main ]
9/24/2009
Pocket Screw Joinery
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Despite certain TV ads, I have heard that joinery using pocket screw techniques is really not the best. Is this the case? |
| A. |
I use pocket screw joinery a lot in my shop for production cabinets and jig and fixture making or when the joinery screw holes will be hidden. The speed and not having to wait for glue to dry is a real time saver. I use and recommend the Kreg jig. However if I am building fine furniture I do not believe a pocket screw is the correct method nor do I like the look of the pocket screw hole on traditional “nice” furniture. The pocket screw certainly has its place, just not on fine furniture in my humble opinion. |
[ Back To Main ]
9/24/2009
Letter Routing
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I need to make letters and numbers larger than the 2 1/2" The router templates that I can find stop at 1 1/2" or 2 1/2" Can you recomend a way to get greater sizes of letters and number for my router I did an internet search but nothing seems to show up? |
| A. |
Check out www.terrco.com or call them at 605-882-3888. This company manufactures the Marlin Sign Making Router System and has a lot of letter and number templates in many sizes. |
[ Back To Main ]
9/20/2009
Flooring
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Can the 1/4 ply wood that is finished be used as flooring? As my mom has little money and needs to have her floors redone. I thought maybe this could work. |
| A. |
I am sorry to say ¼ ply would be too soft and heel marks would easily dent the material. I do not believe that this would hold up very well and would most likely fail. My Mother is 83 and also on a limited income so I understand your Mom’s situation. I suggest that you visit your local flooring store and look for an inexpensive carpet or vinyl. |
[ Back To Main ]
9/20/2009
Shell Jewelry Box Jig
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I have some old growth Brazilian Rosewood & wanted to make some jewelery boxes that had a scalloped shell shape and design, in the top of the box. I was thinking of making a jig for the scalloped shell design and maybe use a router or a Dremel tool in the process. The ridges/grooves in the top of the shell/box top joined with an ellipse convex shape presents somewhat of a challenge. Have you ever tackled such a task or do you have any tips or recommendations? |
| A. |
I recommend that you search out your local carving club and see if someone could teach you how to carve a shell. Fine Woodworking Taunton Press does have a video on this procedure, but there is nothing like a hands-on in person instruction. Your Rosewood will be a challenge to carve …it is very hard, but with sharp tools is very possible. |
[ Back To Main ]
9/20/2009
Making Drawers
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I do not have a dovetail jig, but want to make some drawers. I could use my router and mortise and tenons for this. My question is, I already have a very good PC biscuit joiner. Would it be practical to use this for my drawers and face plates? I have used this for many different applications and it is fast and works well. |
| A. |
Although I use the biscuit jointer in many applications, I would not use it to make drawers. I would most likely set the tablesaw up and cut finger joints. However, you can purchase a good quality Porter Cable Dovetail Jig for less than $150.00. This would produce a nice dovetail joint and would be best in this application. |
[ Back To Main ]
9/9/2009
45 degree Miters
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
Would it be accurate to use a champher router bit to make corners (45 degree) on shadow box picture frames? I have a devil of a time getting these corners accurately. |
| A. |
I don't believe you will have much luck with a champher bit. I think your best bet is to do the routine maintenance and tune-up on the saw your using to cut the miters and the try it again. It sounds as if that may be your problem. |
[ Back To Main ]
9/9/2009
Tight Mitre Joints
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
When making small boxes, I am unable to get absolutely tight mitre joints - any suggestions would be really appreciated. |
| A. |
Try cutting the angle 1/2 degree less than the desired (44 1/2 instead of 45 degree). When you clamp the joint, the outside edge will touch first, then you can pull the inside together when clamping. I use a bessey variable angle strap clamp. It will pull the joint together perfect. Try this on some scrap material, I think you will be surprised. |
[ Back To Main ]
9/9/2009
Veneer
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I am redoing bathroom cabinets from the early 60s. I plan to make cherry raised panel doors. I also have cherry veneer for the cases. What do I need to do to prepare the finished surface for the veneer, and what glue should I use? I also have thought about a figured cherry for the raised panel, but others have written that it may be too busy. How do I get a fairly dark cherry finish without going too dark over time? |
| A. |
As for Appling the veneer, the is a great web site that can walk you through that process, and that is www.northwoodsdoors.com. This will be the easiest way to explain it. As for the aging process of cherry, there are many variables that change the depth of the look to discuss in this arena. Here is a web site that does a good at explaining it. www.woodweb.com/...base/Cherry_Color_After_Aging.html. |
[ Back To Main ]
9/9/2009
Mitered Corners
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
On a small wooden box with mitered corners, what is the best way to join this? The wood is only 1/4" thick. The grain wraps completly around the box. To small for a splin. I still want no end grain. |
| A. |
I would just us the strength of the glue for this joint. I also use a bessey strap clamp to clamp it and have great results. |
[ Back To Main ]
9/9/2009
Table Saw & Sculpted Seats
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I very much want to make scalloped seats with my tablesaw for the rustic chairs I'm making. A few years ago I was told this could be done nicely similiar to a cove cut, but unfortunately I didn't get the details about a jig. Wish I did. I know I could sculpt it out with a Lee Valley kutzall disc but I would prefer my tablesaw. Can your experts tell me how to do this? |
| A. |
I think the jig you are referring to is sold at Rocker, or a Woodcraft store. If you want to be adventurous and build your own, you can find plans online through Wood Magazine or ShopNotes Magazine. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/24/2009
Which is the stronger joint?
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I know each one has its own purpose but can you tell me which is stronger of the two joints? Biscuit or dowel. I want to put in boat seats and was wondering. |
| A. |
Neither one. These are not joints for strength but used to align the pieces that are being glued up. All your strength comes from the glue. It has to be over 15 years since I have used a dowel joint. Biscuits and mortise and tenons have replaced the dowel joint. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/24/2009
Making Wood Flooring
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I'd like to make my own wood flooring. The wood I have is black walnut and I'm not sure if a shaper, or some other tool is my best choice for cutting the tongue and groove, and release cuts on the bottom of the flooring. Suggestions? |
| A. |
I gave your question some serious thought and I believe
I would go with a Delta three horse power shaper and a Delta stock feeder. I
have this shaper in my shop. I would cut the tongue & groove on the shaper
and then move the stock feeder to the table saw and set up a dado head to make
the back cut. I recommend LRH, Freud, and Freeborn Shaper cutters.
The reason I suggest a shaper over a moulding machine is
because you would get more use out of the shaper and stock feeder in the future.
|
[ Back To Main ]
6/24/2009
Tapering Legs 4 Sides
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I have a tapering device but I would like to know how to get tapers on all four sides of a board 2 x 2 or any similar size? |
| A. |
I draw
out the tapers with a straight edge on two opposite sides. I then cut the first
with my bandsaw and clean up on my edge sander. Tape the scrap
back on and cut
and sand the other two sides. Quick and easy! |
[ Back To Main ]
6/24/2009
Hinges
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
What procedures do you take in order to get mortised hinges to close squarely? |
| A. |
Mortised
hinges can be a challenge. I have a small plunge router from Micro-Fence that I
use with a home made jig. I route out the space for the hinge with my router
set to the thickness of the hinge. Before routing I have found if you score the
cut-out with a sharp layout knife you will get a cleaner crisp edge. After
routing, I then clean out the corners with a hand chisel. The trick is to keep
everything square and flat. Fine Woodworking has an excellent article on hinge
placement and how-to that would be very helpful. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/24/2009
Using Cane Heads from Rockler
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I am making canes and I want to use cane heads sold at Rockler. The threads in the head are 13/16- 12 threads per inch. Where is a die available to cut wood threads this size. |
| A. |
I just talked with Rose, a wonderful customer service
rep from Rockler. She was not only very friendly and helpful….. she was very
knowledgeable about the brass cane heads. She recommends that you turn the
handle close and that the brass head will cut its’ own threads! You do not need
a separate thread box. Good luck and happy woodworking to
you.
|
[ Back To Main ]
6/24/2009
Homemade Router Jig
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
For baby crib spindles 5/8 thick @ 1.676 long @ a radius edge of 5/8". Continuous spacing apart of 1.140 repeated slot cut to a depth of appx 1/2" in the edge of a 1 and 1/4 board appx 5' long, centered,,, Do you have any ideas for a jig for that. I am gonna go play with it. IT ALL MUST BE EXACT. |
| A. |
This is hard to explain but I will do my best. I would build a spacing jig. Picture a piece of ½
plywood with two square holes spaced 1.140 apart. The first hole will be larger
than the second hole to accommodate a template guide and router bit . The
second hole will be the exact size of the spindle. You will build a system that
will allow you to feed the stock under the jig and a platform for the plunge
router. You will route the first hole then slide the material down to the
second hole where you will insert a “plug”. This plug will locate the material
under the first hole where you will route a hole. Remove the plug….slide the
material down…insert the plug…and route etc etc .. NOTE:The plug will have to
be flush with the top of your jig or it will interfere with the router. I would
drill and put a rare earth magnet on the top of the plug so I could pull it out
of the hole.
|
[ Back To Main ]
6/24/2009
Door Construction
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I have some knowledge about woodworking. I want to start building some cabinets for my shop. I know about every thing but how to determine what size door to build for the size of the opening. example what length the stiles are, what length are the rails and the size the panel needs to be for any given opening. There are several ways doors are attached to the cabinet. I would start out with a plain door but would like to also build raised panel doors to. I have not seen this in any books are there any I can get. |
| A. |
I
recommend Bill Hylton's Frame and Panel Magic Book available from Rockler! This
book will give you all the information you will need and should answer all your
questions and concerns. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/24/2009
"Scalloped" Seat Cut on Table Saw
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I would like to make a sculpted or "scalloped" seat for the rustic chair I'm working on. I know I can do the shaping with a Lee Valley Kutzall disc but I'm convinced I could do this on my coveted Delta table saw. I tried a cove-like cut using the miter gauge set @ 45 and this looks promising but I'm wondering if there is some sort of jig or how I could spin the seat blank around to do the scalloped cut-out. Thanks for your help! |
| A. |
In this
instance I would stick with the grinder and grind the seat out. I can not think
of a safe way to achieve this cut on a tablesaw. I also have made several 100
feet of cove moulding on the tablesaw but a seat presents a lot of challenges.
How will you control the seat and depth of cut? What will keep the blade from
pulling the piece out of control? There are too many possibilities of getting
hurt in my opinion. I see no advantage of using the tablesaw for this cut. The
danger and disadvantages far outweigh the advantages! Be
careful. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/16/2009
Puzzle Boxes
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I believe I have the name right I am trying to make a box that you have to slide the top of of because it it cut that way from a solid block. Once the top is off you can cut off the bottom and then cut the interior out. You then cut an additional lid from the inside, Basically when you put it back together it all locks but when open it is a jewelry box or trinket box. Any ideas for plans etc? |
| A. |
If you log on to thewoodworkingchannel.com you can see these being made. Just look for the band saw box shows in the schedule and follow the steps. No patterns yet. Go to WBGU.org/americanwoodshop next week for the Chippendale Highboy pattern. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/16/2009
Refinishing/Repairing Table Top
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I have a coffee table that was stained with white water marks, I believe, other than removing the poly surface and totally refinishing, is there another remedy? Many years ago, I seem to have noticed a different remedy, which was dealing with an iron, etc. Again this was many years ago. |
| A. |
Water Ring Remover from Woodcraft will fix it. Call800 535 4486 |
[ Back To Main ]
4/16/2009
Coffee Table
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
Planning to build a coffee table with a bottom shelf. Which type of joinery would you suggest - mortise and tenon, half lap, dowels or others? Would oak be the best wood? Also, are there any special jigs that I might need? |
| A. |
You cannot beat mortise tenon joints for strength and durability. A mortising machine will be the best time saver here. Go with 3/8" tenons and you will have a project for the ages! |
[ Back To Main ]
4/16/2009
Glued Cork on Plywood
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
Doing a project pin board for the church I glued 1/4" thick 12" x 12" cork on a 42" x 60" board using contact cement. The problem occurred the day after when all the cork joints opened up. Basically the cork shank. Two days later they were tight again, but reopened. Now staying at about 1/16". What should I have done and what can I do now? Cut thin strips of cork and glue them in? Start over? |
| A. |
I would first set the cork in the finished environment for a month of acclamation to the conditions (Humidity). Then glue it down in a very dry week. Fix it by completely sanding one spare square into cork dust. Use the new Gorilla Wood Glue (that dries clear) and squeeze (carefully) the glue into the voids. Sprinkle the cork dust into the glue and pad the dust into the cracks with your finger. If you get glue on your finger, add more matching cork dust. This glue dries clear so all you will see is cork. Do not Use Gorilla Polyurethane glue. It is the wrong glue for this particular application. Case closed. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/16/2009
Antique Armoire - Add Shelving
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I recently purchased an antique armoire when an antique store went out of business. I have been eying this piece for years. I want to put shelves in it without compromising the piece. I thought I would line it with 1/2 or 3/4 plywood, adding cleats for shelves. What are your thoughts? |
| A. |
I would recommend building self supporting plywood shelves that in no way change the value of the antique. These are just shelves cut to length that are supported on both bottom ends with another 3/4" thick rectangular cut piece of plywood. A filler board on the bottom locks everything in place. Repeat these steps for each successive shelf and you have a screw free shelving system. Veneer tape can be used to face the exposed plywood edges. It comes in the peel and stick or the glue on variety. Woodcraft sells it. Best of luck. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/16/2009
Fix Door Dragging from Outer Edge
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
How do you fix a door that is dragging from the outer edge? My dad used to shim our door but I have no idea how to do it. hinge side hangs right door handle side drags. |
| A. |
First check the screws on the hinges to make them all tight. Half the time this fixes the problem. If they are stripped ,then fill the hole with plastic wood filler. Let it dry then drill and rescrew so the hinge is tight. Otherwise, it is a matter of making the door jambs and casings plumb in the rough opening. This is what your dad did. He pulled off the casing and used cedar shims to make the spacing around the closed door a uniform 1/8" The shims are inserted from opposite sides so the wedge effect can force the side jamb so it becomes perpendicular to the floor jamb (Threshold). Then it is nailed thought the shims to lock the door frame square. Test the door. If right, then put the casing back on and away you go. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/16/2009
Making Door Frames for Glass
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
Recently I was asked to make a cabinet that would use wood frame doors for glass. I checked all my door molding bits and could not figure this one out. So, instead of using outside bits and a rabbeting bit for the glass, which someone suggested, I used the usual bits for wood doors and when it came to gluing the rails and stiles I screwed the top rail from the stiles so that I could remove it for the glass insert. Is there a better way? |
| A. |
This works just fine Dave. I just do not get it when people shoot down innovative solutions like this. Keep it going!
|
[ Back To Main ]
4/16/2009
Workbench Top
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I have a workbench top made with pine 4x4's. It has developed a few spaces between the 4x4's. What is a good material for a new top? Plywood-Masonite- ???- Thickness? |
| A. |
I personally like hard maple tops. A simple fix is to use biscuits and counter bored and plugged screws to resurface the 4 x4's with 3/4" thick hard maple. The grain must run with the 4x4's. Finish with golden oak Danish oil. Refinish yearly. Perfection! |
[ Back To Main ]
4/16/2009
Time to Complete Project
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I enjoy wood working very much. I consider myself to be a fairly competent wood worker. The question I have is, I see several talented men and women do many projects. I would like to know at what pace do they complete a project and about how many projects are completed in a year. Also do they attend schools to upgrade their knowledge. |
| A. |
Everyone has their own pace. I use about 4,000 board feet a year of mixed species of woods. The projects vary tremendously from year to year. So everyone is different. That's part of the mystery of woodworking. Keeps innovation alive all over the world! |
[ Back To Main ]
4/16/2009
Inlay/Marquetry
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I would like to try an inlay in my next project but am confused about sanding- finishing. If I stain the inlay first how do I sand it flush without removing the stain. If I insert first then sand flush how do I stain or dye each detail? |
| A. |
I just use a good wood glue to hold the inlays in place. Let it cure overnight. Then stain with light building coats. That way the glue never fails and the end result is excellent. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/16/2009
Hinges on Cabinet
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I recently built a cabinet, with a glass in the door, and it was murder figuring how and where to put the hinges. Is there a formula, or rule of thumb for this? |
| A. |
Normally I find hinges work and look best if they are located 4" in from the ends. Structurally I select the size of the hinge to carry the load. That can be the real guess. So I just go to experience and follow what I see on similar size antiques that have stood the test of time. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/16/2009
Cutting Staves on Table Saw
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I would to know to set up a table saw to cut staves. I want to use staves to turn hollow vessels. |
| A. |
Sorry to say that I never recommend cutting curved stock on a table saw. I only cut flat stock. I think you should use the band saw to cut the curves in to the staves. Be certain to follow all instructions that come with the tools you are using. Please always read, understand and follow the instructions that come with the tools you use in the woodshop. Work safely. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/16/2009
Repairing a Split Cedar Chest Lid
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I inherited my grandmother's cedar chest which has a split lid. The cedar shows knots and has that look. I found a piece of knotty cedar to mill down to fit into the lid after squaring up the lid pieces. The chest appears to have a natural finish, not sure. How do you recommend going about this? I have not cut anything yet. I thought I would cut the lid pieces square, which would require about 2" of new material. Mill and cut the piece to add and use biscuits to join it all together. I am not sure about how I would go about the finishing. |
| A. |
My guess is that the finish is Amber Shellac. That is what has been on many chests like this that I have repaired over the years. So test the finish first with alcohol on an all cotton rag. Wipe a small test area. If it is shellac then the color of the finish will come off with the rag. Stop. Do your repair and wipe on the AMber Shellac to get that old matching look. I bet this covers it. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/16/2009
Kitchen Corner Cabinet
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I have a very small kitchen and have maximized storage space.My problem is the ubiquitous corner that wastes precious space. As far as I can tell the corner hardware offered cannot be retrofitted. Am I wrong or do you have other suggestions. |
| A. |
Look at the rotary shelves for corners. The boxes sell them and you can double the useful space in the corners. They break down to assemble in the tight spots. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/16/2009
Loose Spindles
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
How is best way to tighten loose spindles on bar stools? Gluing alone does not seem to hold very long. |
| A. |
No easy quick fix here. These mortise and tenon joints need to be pulled apart and "polyurethane" glued in place. It can be messy if too much glue is put in the joint. Mist with water before putting the parts back together. Clamp for 24 hours and it will be good for decades. Polyurethane glues will bond with other glues unlike everything else. That's why I use polyurethane glue for this repair. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/16/2009
Banister
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
The bottom post of my staircase banister has come loose. It is a curved unit that does not attach to the bottom step from the side but is attached on top of the bottom step in the middle. I don't know how it was originally installed therefore I don't know how to tighten it up. |
| A. |
If I understand the situation right, then it is tenoned into the tread. Any chance that you can gently pry the Newell post up enough to work wood glue into the tenon? If not, then do not destroy the integrity of the "stair system". I would use pocket screws to draw it tight and just plug the holes with matching wood dowels that are sanded flush and finished to match. O.K. another solution is to use galvanized finish nails that are set in pre-drilled pilot holes. Galvanized nails seem to hold better in wood than bare steel. Hope this helps. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/16/2009
Inset Cabinet Doors
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
What is the suggested space allowance between and around inset cabinet doors when using European hinges? I have a opening of exactly 48" wide by 24" high that I want to fill with 2 inset doors. |
| A. |
I like 1/16 inch all the way around. Plus the hinges can be adjusted to "screw in the right alignment". Look at the instructions that come with the 35mm hinges being used first. They often specifically spell out every detail in the spec. sheet. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/16/2009
Water Stains on Cedar Wood
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
How do I remove old water stains from wood boards which are on the walls of our house. The water came in around the windows. Since then the windows have been replaced and no more water gets in. |
| A. |
If the stains are white then use water ring remover sold by Woodcraft. It is excellent. If the marks are black, then the damage is in the wood and sanding and refinishing is the best solution in my opinion. This is a case that you should get other opinions too. Without seeing the damage it is almost impossible to gauge the cure. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/16/2009
Round Mohagany Bar Top
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I have just been asked to build a 180 degree curved service bar for a local restaurant. It is 30" deep and it consists of a 180 degree half circle wall with a top which sits on it. The specs call for Mahogany, my idea is to use 2" solid stock like 2x6 scroll out pattern and route out slot for 3/4 ply to fit in so front face of bar is 2" thick, wall will be built with wiggle board ....am I on the right track, or do you have any advice. |
| A. |
Use biscuits to make it easy to build. I like what you are doing. Perfect design! Way to go. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/16/2009
Humidors
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I have found several plans for humidors, all using mitered corners. Will other joints give the same level of tightness required for proper climate control? Or is the lining the most important? Can I miter the lining and dovetail the outer box? |
| A. |
You sure can. I have seen a variety of plans with different joinery. I believe
dovetails would be an excellent choice. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/16/2009
Workbench Construction
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I have just finished building my wood shop and am about to build my first work bench which is an ACORN for which I have the drawings and the deck which I purchased a few years ago. In reading an article on work benches I found a caution to attach the deck to the base using over sized holes in the base to allow for expansion and contraction of the deck to avoid the deck cracking. I want the bench to be rock solid so I am afraid the deck will be able to float and move if I follow this advice. My shop is in the basement of my home so there will be about a 5-6 degree temperature change because I have a central AC and central heating system. If you believe I will have a problem if I bolt the deck solidly to the base please advise how I should bolt the deck to the base so the deck will not move. |
| A. |
I have helped build this bench about 200 times in my school. It is one of our
most popular classes. I have re-designed the plan to include 5 ½” sides, four
inch legs, and a bottom shelf with beefier feet. I also use the hardware kit
from Rockler. 12” vise kit with quick release.
The top sits down on the legs into a mortise created by
blocks of maple. The weight of the bench top trapped by the legs in a
mortise-tenon makes the bench rock solid.
|
[ Back To Main ]
4/16/2009
Bombay Chest
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I would like to make a Bombay Chest. How do I bend the wood to make the door panels and sides. |
| A. |
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JG5xwTD7iac
Take a look at this you tube video. Charles Neil is
building a Bombay chest and shows the details. He carves
the sides out of thick solid stock!
|
[ Back To Main ]
4/16/2009
Hand Planes
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I recently purchased a Footprint NO.5 smoothing plane. It came with the bevel down. The instructions stated to sharpen the blade and insert bevel up. I have tried it both ways and it doesn't seem to make any difference in the cut. What is the proper orientation of the blade in a hand plane? |
| A. |
Pick up a copy of Garrett Hack’s book, The Hand Plane Book. The bevel is to
face the front or toward the work. Do a Google on hand plane parts and you will
find good brake down illustrations. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/16/2009
Bookshelf Hidden Door & Hardware
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I am trying to design/build a full height bookshelf which includes as part of it a fully hidden door which swings out into the room. My problem is in knowing how strong to build the bookshelf/door, and what kind of bolstering and hinging it would need, as well as maintaining its hidden nature. Any ideas would help. |
| A. |
Do you have a local Rockler that you can visit? Or better yet a dealer that
sells professional cabinet making hardware. I have had customers build a
project then come into my store and then find out that the hardware they need to
make it work just doesn’t exist. Be sure to get your hardware first then build
around the limitations of the hardware. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/16/2009
Fir Workability
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I have a beautiful piece of fir that I'd like make into a table top. I need to know if I can router the edge (I've heard it splinters)? The legs will be either furniture-grade pine or cypress. Also, I'd like to give it overall a cherry-like look. Can you recommend a procedure? |
| A. |
You may have to climb cut or back router if you find the material to be brittle
and wanting to chip or blow out. Sometimes I will use a smaller profile bit and
remove the wood in steps. I suggest that you seal the wood with a pre-stain and
stain dark if you are wanting a cherry look. The best way to get a cherry look
is to use cherry. Fir stained to look like cherry usually looks like fir made
to look like cherry! |
[ Back To Main ]
4/16/2009
Installing Dowels
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I often use dowels to reinforce joints, but I have read contradictory information about the orientation of the grain when installing. Should the grain on the dowel be perpendicular or parallel to the wood grain the dowel is being installed in, and is it okay to glue the dowel. I know the wood expands and contracts and the dowel might expand differently creating cracks if it is not oriented correctly. |
| A. |
I build a
lot of furniture and help others daily build furniture. There are no dowels in
my shop and I have not used dowels since grade school forty years ago. According
to Richard Hadley( Understanding Wood), he done a lot of experiments testing the
strength of joints. a dowel joint does not add any strength. Tage Frid also
agrees with this in his book on joinery. I consider doweling invented by
furniture manufactures on an assembly line to line up pieces of furniture by
unskilled hands. There are better and easier ways to strengthen a joint rather
that dowels. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/14/2009
Chair Stretchers
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
With 3 children at home it seems that I am constantly repairing our dining room chairs. The most common problem is the stretchers becoming loose or pulling out. I tried Swellok, wood glue, and polyurethane glue. I usually pin them with a 16 gauge brad. I have even put a small wedge in the end so when I clamp it the end is spread. What type of glue is best for the repair, and what other methods can I use to ensure a longer lasting repair. |
| A. |
I am
sorry to say but modern chairs are designed to fall apart. That way you have to
buy new ones every several years. I feel your pain because children are
especially hard on chairs. They like to lean back on two legs! My father
always threatened to build my chair from 2 x 4’s and concrete. However let’s
try one more time: First clean off all the old glue and repairs from the
joints. Be sure that the joints are well clean. I like to use Gorilla glue and
clamp the chairs at least 48 hours after gluing. I have even used three inch
screws and countersunk and plugged them into the joints to help pull everything
tight. Good luck and children do grow up! Hang in there! |
[ Back To Main ]
4/14/2009
Self Close Inset Hinges
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
In the process of remodeling a kitchen island, I replaced the existing self close inset hinges on a pair of cabinet doors. I purchased the same style self close inset hinges. The problem was as I tightened the stile side of the hinges it would shift the doors to the middle and consequently they would bind and not close. What is the proper procedure to locate self close inset hinges? |
| A. |
If I understand your question I believe that there is not a hinge problem only
an adjustment problem. I just use the in and out and up and down adjustments
till I get a good fit. If you are near a Rockler store, take a look at there
display units and have a salesman show you adjustment procedures. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/14/2009
Cut Tapered Staves
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
How to cut tapered staves on the table saw accurately. I am a newbie to woodturning I want learn to turn vessels using the stave method. |
| A. |
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/04/s/articles/birdsmouth2/index.cfm
please visit this web site. You will find a tremendous amount of information
and how to. Good luck. This is a very trying technique and will require a lot
of skill and patience. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/14/2009
Cutting Finials
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I am trying to cut pointed finials at the end of a 6 x 6 using my recently purchased 14" band saw. I can't figure out how to make a jig. I think that I need something that travels in the rip fence slot. Can you advise? |
| A. |
I would recommend a sliding sled that travels in your miter slot and large
enough to help support the length. Set the fence on the sled to 45 degrees and
set a stop to control the length of cut. Push the material on the sled through
the blade and rotate each time cutting off all four sides. You will also need a
helper. I recommend a ½” wide by 3 teeth blade for this work. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/14/2009
Warped Door
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Would like to build a 34 by 80 inch door 1/4 luan @ 2by4 and to keep it from warping. I constructed 2 and they both warped. |
| A. |
If I understand you correctly, you built a frame from standard 2 x4s and then
covered with ¼ luan plywood? If this is the case, I believe that the 2 x4s are
the problem. I would recommend (IF THIS IS AN INTERIOR DOOR) that you use 8/4
poplar lumber with thru mortise and tenon joinery. I would use two vertical
pieces 1 ¾ thick 80 inches long four inches wide and three cross pieces and two
vertical pieces in the center. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/14/2009
Wine Rack Angles
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I am in the process of trying to build a wine rack with a diamond bin on the bottom . What I have trouble understanding is how you do the cross section of the diamond bin, and how do you determine the angles?
|
| A. |
The joint in the middle is done with a dado head set to the thickness of the
wood being used, raised to cut ½ way up on one piece and half way down on the
cross piece. Set your miter gauge to 45 degrees and cross cut each member. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/14/2009
Wooden Overhead Garage Doors
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
How are wooden overhead garage doors constructed,and can the average homeowner/woodworker build their own. Also where can information on this subject be found as I have searched without success. Just a side note, the particular type of door I am interested in is of the carriage house design with crossbuck trim and window lights in the top panel section if this helps for information purposes. |
| A. |
If you
have a commercial shaper capable of running large 1 ¼” shaper cutters, yes one
could build there own garage doors. I discussed this with my good friend David
Sochar at Acorn Woodworks who has made several garage doors for million dollar
homes and above. I suggest that you might leave this job to a skilled
professional. However, my greatest learning and what has strengthened my
skills is doing something that I should have left to a pro. There is no better
teacher than just doing it. Here is a contact that will help you design your own
door. Good luck and please let us know how you proceed. phone 800.223.9795
| fax 408.293.7457
147 Martha Street, San Jose, CA
95112-3927 | information@garagedoorsinc.com |
[ Back To Main ]
4/14/2009
Screen Door Construction
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Our Victorian is in need of screen doors. Can you help with sources for, layout design, building and finishing details? Shop tools, shaper, table saw, planer etc. |
| A. |
Do a
google under wooden screen doors and you will find 100’s of designs. I suggest
that you use mortise and tenon joinery for long life. I would suggest painting
it in a color to match your Victorian home. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/14/2009
Making Drawers
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I want to make some cabinets for my tool shed and put drawers in how hard is it to put the metal slides that go on the sides? |
| A. |
Piece of cake! Just keep them level and square. Rockler has free downloadable
directions for just about all kinds of drawer slides that you may find helpful.
Good luck! |
[ Back To Main ]
4/14/2009
Jewelry Box-Curly Maple Burl
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I'm getting ready to use some Curly Maple Burl on a top for a jewelry box I'm making. I will be cutting a dado in the Blood wood surrounding it. My question is should I glue this in solidly all the way around? Or should I do this differently? I'm not sure how the Burl will move, as all woods do move eventually. |
| A. |
I would
build the box to allow for wood movement and not glue the burl in solid. Sounds
like a beautiful project. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/14/2009
Outdoor Furniture
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I am building an Adirondack chair for my yard, what type of finish (stain, paint, varnish etc.) would best hold up and not need refinishing every year? Chair would be subject to sun and rain but not winter weather. I was hoping to use poplar wood. |
| A. |
Do not use poplar if you are going to put it outside. Poplar is pretty close to
putting cardboard outside. I suggest cypress, mahogany, teak, white oak. A
good outside paint would give you the most protection or a heavy duty deck stain
and top coat found at your local big box. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/14/2009
Vise Placement
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Is there a standard placement for a front, and an end vise if one if left handed? |
| A. |
We have
built over 100 work benches here at the school and it is just personal
preference on vise location. Take in consideration that you are a left hander
and shop location is the two important factors and what type of woodworking you
do. Just please yourself! |
[ Back To Main ]
4/14/2009
Chair Back
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I need to make a curved chair back with a design scrolled out of it. The plank that I'm using is too wide to fit in my band saw. Can I cut the plank in half, band saw it and bend the halves laterally, with the pattern cut and then glue/dowel the halves back together? There won't be over two inches on either side to insert dowels into. I know that I could do the joinery without the pattern and cut the pattern after the bend, however, the pattern is MUCH easier to cut with a flat plank. |
| A. |
Sorry but I believe it would be much easier to find a friend with a large
bandsaw that has the needed capacity. Doing it two pieces worries me about
lining it up and how it would look. What size bandsaw do you have? Can you add
a riser block? |
[ Back To Main ]
4/14/2009
Chair Repair
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
A Monastery a go to has two chairs that need repair of the dowel joints for the legs (probably from kids rocking back on the legs). They seem to have been repaired before with a reddish type rubbery glue and I wonder what would be necessary to re-glue these joints. How clean of this material do I need to be (I assume very clean) and what type glue should I use to repair. I don't like epoxy because it is hard to repair again and chair legs take a beating over time. Thanks for any insight you can provide. |
| A. |
You are
certainly right on that the joints must be clean. I recommend hide glue when
repairing chairs. Hide glue holds very well and can be reversible with hot
water. Good luck! |
[ Back To Main ]
4/14/2009
Deep Scratches
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I recently picked up a heavy solid wood bed headboard and footboard that had been thrown out. Someone had deep scratched names in the headboard. Should they be filled? With what? How to blend finish? |
| A. |
I am
wondering if it would be better to cover it with real wood sawed thin and glued
up. It depends on the design. One could also try sanding out the marks and
using the finish to hide or conceal anything not sanded out. The price was
right so go ahead and try. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/14/2009
Cabinets
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Our kitchen cabinets are painted white. I want to convert them to finished cherry. My thought is to glue thin strips of cherry to the existing face frame. It appears to be to difficult to replace the face frames. What is the best way and glue to use to accomplish this, or do you have a better solution than gluing to existing face frame. I will make new doors out of cherry. |
| A. |
Yes!
Tear them out and build a set of cherry cabinets. When it it is all said and
done this will be the best and quickest way and certainly will look the best.
There is not much money is face frame stock! It is your home and if you are
planning on staying in this home do it right! If you are just looking for a
quick turn around then cover them with plastic laminate. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/14/2009
Bee Hive Handle
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
How do they make the handle cut on a Bee hive box? |
| A. |
I suggest
that you use a plunge router with a template guide and a pattern made from ½”
plywood. I did a quick google on Bee Hive
Building and found a wealth
of information and plans. You would mount a straight bit in your router lets
say a ½” diameter bit and then a 5/8” template guide in the bottom of the router
base. This guide will direct the bit and keep it from cutting into your
homemade template from ½”plywood. The template would need to be just a little
bit larger that the needed cut out to allow for the template guide and bit. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/14/2009
Using Router to Make Groove in Butcher Block Board
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I am building several 13" X 20" by 2-1/4" thick butcher block cutting boards out of red oak. I want to make a grove around the edge of the top to capture juices/blood. I have a 3/8" box bit for my router for this purpose. Is it better to make a template 2-1/2" smaller than where I want the grove (the table of my router has a 5" diameter) to sit on the board for the router to follow? Or should I screw a board to the bottom of the router to serve as a guide to follow the perimeter of the board? I'm concerned about keeping the grove at the same distance around the 1" radius outside corners of the board. Your advice please. |
| A. |
I like to
make cutting boards from all the maple scrap we create building work benches
here at the school. I normally tape an appropriate sized ¾” piece of plywood
centered on the maple cutting board. I like the double stick tape Rockler
sells. I then run my router on the outside of the plywood edge to guide the
gravy groove! I also have a core box bit that has an upper bearing which makes
the template easier to size. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/14/2009
Closet Doors
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I am building closet doors for our bedroom,actual door size will be 92"x30"X1",with black cherry.Each door will have two raised panels,the rails will be connected with lap joints.I will install space balls along the raised panels to prevent damage from wood movement.Please note all wood will solid black cherry.Do you see any real problems with this project? |
| A. |
You might want to consider a little thicker material. I am questioning only a
1” thick door staying straight. I would also consider mortise and tenon
joinery. You are spending a lot of money on material you might as well build
them the best way you can. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/14/2009
Making Disks
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I'm making a number of disks with a 1 1/2" hole saw in 3/8" maple. Problem is, the sawdust keeps clogging in the saw teeth which causes burning on the sides of the kerf. Repeated cleanouts don't improve things much. Cleaning off the saw teeth several times for each cut works the best but it seems like there should be an easier was. The saw is very sharp. Can you help? |
| A. |
A hole
saw is designed to cut a hole not to produce a disc. The disc is the waste. I
am guessing you are using the disc as wheels or toy parts? I would discuss this
my sharpening service and see if they could put a more aggressive angle on the
hole saw teeth to produce faster cutting less burning results. You might want
to try different cutting speeds and also have an air compressor to blow out the
waste while cutting. I also suggest buying 1 ½” maple dowel and cutting it up
to the correct thickness. If you have a lathe you could turn the maple as
well. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/14/2009
Trimming Laminate
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I am in the process of building a laminate countertop, when trimming the top piece of laminate it seams that the bearing on the trim bit is burning the laminate on the sides of the countertop. Any help would be appreciated. |
| A. |
I use a solid carbide laminate trim bit from Amana and a
product called Lamilube to prevent burning. I prefer the solid carbide bits
with the self guide over a bearing bit. This way I am only cutting less than ¼”
cut instead of as much as a ½” cut. I always chase this with a couple of
strokes with my plastic-cut laminate file.
If the edge of your laminate is not square to the face
of the laminated face, that could lead to a burn from the bit trimming into the
color of the edge.
|
[ Back To Main ]
3/26/2009
Digital Click Kits
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I am seeking a supplier of low cost digital clock kits that could be installed in a custom woodworking frame. I want to build these for school children who can only read digital clocks. Ideally the display should be large so they can see it from the other end of the classroom. Can you recommend a supplier? |
| A. |
I would
call and talk with Klock-it. They should be able to help or suggest one that
could help. |
[ Back To Main ]
3/26/2009
Not Square
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I built a workbench base from 2x4 bolted together. I measured the diagonals and they are 1/2 inch off. I loosened the bolts and tried to fix it by clamping one side, etc but to no avail. I hope you can help me with a way to fix this. |
A.
|
I believe
that this one is history. You should have face jointed and squared each piece
of 2 x4 to take out the bow and the warp. I think that being out of square is
just the nature of a glued up 2 x 4 base. Live with it or start over with
better material and better milling practices. Sorry! |
[ Back To Main ]
3/26/2009
Drawer Glides
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I make quite a bit of furniture, and when it comes to drawers, the guides, or glides are a real hassle for me. I try and make my drawers without purchased, mechanical glides. What is your best solution? |
| A. |
If I am
making a period piece I usually follow the original design. I just completed a
large cherry Shaker cabinet with seven rabbeted half blind dovetail drawers. No
slides, just carefully fitted and hand planed to a perfect fit. You can feel the
air push out of the way when you close the drawers. Now would I fuss with a
production kitchen cabinet drawer….heck no….my customers would not pay me enough
and besides they want something that will work with ease loaded with silverware
and such. If I am making modern cabinets give me my full extension heavy duty
ball bearing slides! |
[ Back To Main ]
3/26/2009
Cherry Door at Auction
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I bought a new cherry door at an auction. I go to stain it and realize there is all this wood puddy in different areas, obviously who ever manufactured the door made a few boo boos anyway the puddy does not stain and it looks horrible. Do I just sand this or what? |
| A. |
Good
luck…..now we know why it was at auction and sold cheap. You can try sanding
out the filler but?? If I got it cheap enough I would most likely just paint
it! |
[ Back To Main ]
3/26/2009
Segmented Piece Cutting
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I am interested in making and turning a segmented bowl. Which tool is better to use to cut mitered piece? The table saw or a compound miter saw. I also have a band saw but don't trust the accuracy. When cutting small pieces on your recommended tool, how do you do it safely? |
| A. |
Cutting
small pieces safely and accurately, in my opinion should be done on the table
saw using a sliding sled and Destaco hold down clamps to control the wood.
When one is cutting small pieces think safety, control of the cut, control of
the work piece, and control of the scrap piece. I often have an airline in my
hand to blow away small scrap pieces that fall too close to the blade. |
[ Back To Main ]
3/26/2009
Hinges
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I built a display cabinet. It has two large inset doors and inside has two drawers. After it was built and in use I realized I had made a big mistake. The doors must be opened to 180 degrees to allow the drawers to be pulled out. Are there any hinges that would help clear the drawers better? As you can expect I'm getting a lot of flack about this. |
| A. |
Take a few pictures of your cabinet and some measurements and go visit your
local professional cabinet hardware sales department. Depending on how your
cabinet is constructed will drive the hinge selection. I believe that they will
be able to help you with the correct hinge that will solve this problem. |
[ Back To Main ]
3/26/2009
Steeple Clock Face
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I make wood case steeple clocks, works from Klock Kit . Can't seem to find steeple faces for these clocks. They measure 12" to 18" tall, 8 to 10 " wide. Do you have a name or two of suppliers. |
| A. |
I did a web search and found some interesting
information. Do a goggle under “Clock Dials Painting”. There are companies
that provide the service of custom painted clock dials. I also believe that one
could learn to paint there own. Perhaps one could even have a good screen
printer print them on a metal or wooden background. Take a look at www.clockparts.com and also look at
Thornton Dials.
|
[ Back To Main ]
3/26/2009
Cutting Boards
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I am trying to build a router table that I can use my current router with. On my Router base there is a plastic plate with 3 panhead screws attaching it. Do I need to use this plate as a template and route out that same thickness on my table top and then use that same plate on the table top to mount my router from underneath? I have seen some plans where you use a Rousseau plate is it better to use this setup or my own router face plate ? If I use the Rousseau plate how do I go about attaching my current router to it ? |
| A. |
Contact
Woodhaven at www.woodhaven.com they sell extra long
base screws for your router that will be long enough to attach your router to
the Rousseau plate. Just call them and give the model number and manufacture of
your router and they will be able to help you. Usually you remove the “black
plate” on your router and attach your router to the Rousseau plate. One
advantage to going to the Rousseau plate is that they make some nice accessories
that will fit their plate: replaceable throat plates, guide pins, levelers,
etc. |
[ Back To Main ]
3/26/2009
Making a Table Top
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I have some well aged apitong wood I want to make a diner table out of. What would be the best way to join the wood together? My plan it to make a 5' diameter table. The wood is 4/4. What would be the best support frame under the table? The wood has been aging for 5 years. |
| A. |
Apitong
is similar to red oak. I suggest that you check the moisture with a meter and
allow for wood movement in your construction techniques. I would us common
milling techniques and glue up the top. I would use biscuits to help align the
large top boards during the glue up. I also use clamping cauls to sandwich the
top while clamping. Any traditional frame work would be acceptable. I like to
mortise/tenon the table aprons into the legs. |
[ Back To Main ]
3/26/2009
Piano Hinge
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I built a toybox, and want to install a piano hinge. I built it as a closed box, then cut off the lid. I mortised the hinge, and installed it on the box, now I need to attach the lid and get it in perfect alignment. I wanted to make a seamless closure. How do you install and align the piano hinge. I'm thinking of using silicone caulk/glue on the hinge in order to get it to stay in place while I carefully open it and install a couple of screws. Are there any better techniques? |
| A. |
After
cutting the lid off the box I clamp the lid as if it is open back onto the rear
of the box. I recommend that you build a couple of L shaped brackets the clamp
onto the box and that will support and keep the lid in place as you mortise the
lid and the box. I will clamp a 2 x 4 onto the box giving my router a place to
ride and to keep in balance other than just the narrow edge of the box. I route
the mortise for the hinge with a small trim router and then chisel the corners
square. I then attach the hinge using a vicks bit (self centering spring loaded
drill) that will center the screw holes. I use a little wax on the screws and I
use a hand screw driver (not a cordless drill) to drive the screws home. I find
I have better control and will not strip out the small screws if I use a hand
screw driver. Route the mortise to the exact thickness of the hinge on the lid
and box and this should crate as near as I can get it seamless closure. |
[ Back To Main ]
3/26/2009
Bird House Roof
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
For some time now I have wanted to make a "Lazy Hill" type 8 unit bird house for my married daughter's family. I have looked in bird house books etc but found nothing that would help. My problem is making that bell shaped roof which is light and quite strong. How did they do it? Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. |
| A. |
Great Question. I did a little research on the web and
found several designs but no help on how it is done. I would suggest that one
could turn the design on the lathe from wood. I also thought about building a
mold from wood and pouring one from plastic resin. I remember from my college
art class “The lost wax” method. I also suggest that you visit a tin
smith/copper smith and discuss having them make the bell shape from copper.
Please let me know what works for you.
|
[ Back To Main ]
3/26/2009
Window Seal Repair
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I have Anderson window sills and windows. The sill needs redone. It has a cherry stain with a spray on varnish that professional woodworkers did when my house was built 10 years ago. What is the recommended care for this problem? I am a hobby woodworker and have refinished several antiques. I use watco dannish oil, polyurethanes, and Howards restore a finish , strippers etc. but have never used varnish. What is your solution? |
| A. |
I checked with my good friend and general contractor Mr. Shannon Ivers on this
issue: Shannon recommends that you strip the
sills with a good quality stripper; we discussed sanding and scraping but
believe that stripping will be quicker. Tape off and protect the area with
plastic and newspaper. Strip down and sand to clean bare smooth wood. Reapply
the stain and then use a good quality protection top coat with strong UV
inhibitors. Thanks for an interesting topic and good luck,
Mike |
[ Back To Main ]
10/15/2008
Dovetails
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I am making a cedar chest for some fine wool and silk carpets. If I use dovetail joints on the sides, rather than on the ends of the pieces used for the L and R sides of the chest, would the joints be as strong as those made on the ends? |
| A. |
Done properly, yes it would be as strong. |
[ Back To Main ]
10/15/2008
Hanging Carsiding
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
How can I figure material when hanging carsiding on 45 degree angle? |
| A. |
I figure material by the square foot of the space being covered, and allow for waste. |
[ Back To Main ]
10/15/2008
Hinges
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I am building a cabinet (cherry and curly maple) with inset doors. Each door is about 26" tall x 16" wide x 1" thick, and weighs 10 pounds. The face frame that the door will be hinged to is also 1" thick. 1. What type of hinges can I use (butt, no-mortise, etc.)? 2. How many hinges per door? 3. Anything else I should know - such as minimum screw length, whatever? I FORGOT SOMETHING - what length should the hinge be? |
| A. |
There are several types and styles of hinges to choose from, that's more of a personal preference. If you go to the Rockler Hardware web site (www.rockler.com) and click on cabinet hardware for the types to choose from. Usually it would be 2 hinges per door, and the length of screw needed is provided with the hinge. |
[ Back To Main ]
10/15/2008
Sanding
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I'm trying to refinish a piano bench. I used an orbital sander 80 grit and now I have a huge round patch with deep scratches against the grain. I can't even see the wood grain in that section anymore. There are several other areas with scratches against the grain as well. Then I tried 120 grit paper but I don't see any improvement. What do you suggest? |
| A. |
When using a random-orbital sander, you should start at 80 grit sandpaper, then to 100, then 120, then 180, and finish with 220 grit. By graduating grits, the 100 grit lessons the depth of scratch the of the previous grit paper, and so on. When you get to the 220 grit, the scratches then become invisible to the eye. NEVER lean on the sander. Only apply enough pressure to maintain control. |
[ Back To Main ]
10/14/2008
Fireplace Mantel Finish
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
My fireplace mantel is a rough cedar beam. It is mortered in place and I do not know if it is possible to remove it without damaging the stone, morter or mantel itself. I would like for the finish on the mantel to be smooth. I was thinking of trying to hand plane it to smooth it out and either paint or seal it with something. The fireplace is stone above and below the mantel. The pieces that hold the mantel are stone as well. What do you think would be the easiest process by which to smooth the surface? |
| A. |
If you are good with a plane, that may be the fastest. If not, use a random-orbital sander starting with 60 grit paper, or 40 grit if you can find it, and work your way through all the grits ending with 220 grit. Remember, never lean or apply force to the sander. Only apply enough pressure to maintain control. Let the wait of the sander and the grit of the paper do their job. |
[ Back To Main ]
10/14/2008
Table Legs
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I am refurbishing a drop leaf table with new legs. I am using oak to match the top of the table. The legs will be 2 inches sq. by 26 inches long. I would like to taper the legs on two sides down to 1 and 3/8 inches at the bottom of the leg. How do I lay this out and make a jig to cut this taper. Any info would be kindly appreciated. |
| A. |
Wood magazine has done a great article on fast and accurate tapers in the current issue #187 Nov. 2008, that will answer all your questions. Good luck. |
[ Back To Main ]
8/29/2008
Cabriole Leg Repair
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Received parlor chair with short cabriole, mohagany legs. Front leg is broken diagonally. Signs of older repair with glue (signs of some contact and several voids) and 2 screws, but leg failed under weight. Removed screws and old glue. What are your recommendations? |
| A. |
Can new legs be made? Sounds as if the old legs have been badly repaired in the
past. I do a lot of furniture repair in my shop and most of the time it is
repairing someone’s awful attempt to repair it. If they had left it alone and
let me repair, it sure would be a lot easier. In this case I suggest that you
make new legs. |
[ Back To Main ]
8/28/2008
Dadoes and Mortises
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
It seems with a lot of joinery we are concerned with increasing the glue surface area, but we want the cleanest dado bottom or mortis we can get. Is it worth buying a high dollar dado set etc., If we are reducing the glue surface? |
| A. |
I use a high end dado set in my workshop almost daily. I use it to dado veneer
plywood. The veneer is so thin these days that you must have a good set in
order not to chip out. I try for a snug fit with most joinery, not a forced fit
but a snug fit. I see no advantage to a “rough” cut. I want the bottom of my
dadoes to be flat especially dadoes that can be seen. |
[ Back To Main ]
8/26/2008
Baltic Birch Plywood or Not
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I am getting ready to cut on my scroll saw , a picture out of wood.I'll be using 1/8 plywood { Baltic Birch } That's stack cutting. Now the question is would oak,maple or just what would be the best kind of wood to use. The picture being my wife's son that passed away last year due to cancer . I just want it to be perfect in every way, if that is possibly. This will be my first undertaking of a picture out of wood. |
| A. |
I am very sorry for your loss. Cancer is such a mean
disease. I lost my sister to cancer as well. It is very noble of you to want
to make this project as perfect as you can. Just about any wood would work.
You want to pick the wood for color and grain pattern. I suggest you visit your
hardwood supplier and explain to him what you are doing. I believe he will be
able to help you and offer suggestions. We would like to see a picture when you
finish. God Bless.
|
[ Back To Main ]
8/26/2008
Oak Table
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I have an OAK table the center of it has laminate oak on it/ very thin approx. 1/16 thick. It has a bubble coming up around the edges of the veneer. Is there a way to fix this without replacing the center of the table? |
| A. |
If this was mine to fix: Take a sharp razor blade and make a small incision
large enough to get a glue needle under the veneer. Get some glue under the
veneer and then cover with wax paper and a weight till glue dries. Good luck. |
[ Back To Main ]
8/26/2008
Warped Dresser Drawers
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I would like to restore an old dresser but the drawers sides are warped(cupped). Is there any way to remove the cupping? |
| A. |
I would most likely just build new drawers. I believe it would be easier than
trying to save the original ones. I have tried in the paste to remove cupping
but never had very good results. |
[ Back To Main ]
8/26/2008
Shelf Doors
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Hi, I made a set of doors for a shelf area in my bedroom out of 1/4 in board. I'm a beginning woodworker, and made them just a small bit too wide. Is there a way to cut that extra amount off? The fence won't go far enough to the blade to cut off the extra. Can you help me? |
| A. |
I recommend
that you use a straight edge and clamp it down to your door and use a router
with a straight bit to cut the door to size. You could also do this with a jig
saw, but the router would give you a better edge. |
[ Back To Main ]
8/26/2008
Quilted Maple
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Hello, I'm making a desk for the wife. I'm using Quilted Maple on part of it. It will be framing oak, this is on the desk top itself. When I sand the maple it seems/looks like I'm removing the curly/ribbon look, not what I want to do!!! This is the first time I've used maple, but as I get into finer and finer sand paper it seems to be coming back. But, not like it was after I ran it through the planer. She has settled on a golden oak stain over a natural stain(just to get it a bit darker)(from minwax). So, when I stain the boards I'm hoping the ribbon comes back like it was before. I've done a test board already and it seemed to come back but not like I was hoping for. As I've gone to the $9 a board ft cost already I'm still leery I'm losing the ribbon. So at forty bucks a board I don't want to destroy my investment. |
| A. |
We build a
curly bird’s eye maple rocking chair here at American Sycamore and to get the
figure to “pop”: we sand to 4000 grit and then apply Tried & True oil
finish. I do not believe you can “sand out” the figure, as a matter of fact the
finer you sand the more the grain and beauty of the wood shows. |
[ Back To Main ]
8/26/2008
Squaring Small Pieces
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Sometimes I need to square up small pieces of wood, for example, a pen blank. It is too small for the standard jointer/planer/table saw method. How can I get all four corners to be perfectly square and all sides an equal width? Thank you. |
| A. |
Squaring Up Small Pieces! Och!!! BE CAREFUL!!! Small pieces can get you into
trouble fast. OK I warned you! Now here is how I went about square up small
pieces of ebony for a project I was working on. As you well know ebony is very
expensive and I wanted to be as frugal as possible but yet not get hurt. I had
several pieces about 1” x 1” x 6”long. I laid out the pieces onto a piece of 1”
poplar 6” wide and 18” long, large enough to go across my jointer and through the
planer. I traced around each piece with a pencil. Next I went to the scroll
saw and cut out the marked lines. I had created a “hole” for the small pieces
to fit down into. I then used double stick tape and a dab of hot glue to hold
the pieces in place and also sandwiched a cover board over the small pieces. I
then had the pieces trapped. I ran the piece across my jointer, face jointing
the pieces of ebony. I removed the cover board, and ran it thru the planer.
This created a top and bottom that was parallel. I then made the second sled
that held the piece in place and jointed one edge square. The last step was the
fourth edge. I needed to rip it on the table saw. I used my GRR-Ripper to
safely control the small piece and keep my fingers safe. |
[ Back To Main ]
8/26/2008
Wood and Metal Working
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Would like to do wood carving using different kind of wood but also using metal such as bronze, copper and silver. Do you have any book recommendation on this topic wood carving with metal incrustations. |
| A. |
I have a good friend that owns a large woodworking company that makes store
fixtures and clothing racks. In the years past it was all wood, however today
he is doing 50/50, part wood and part metal. His ability to join wood and metal
has made his company stand out in the crowd of manufactures. Let’s say that his
company and designers are pushing the envelope. I am not familiar with any book
on this subject of carving wood and metal. Perhaps a trip to a modern museum or
art school would help. I know here in Indianapolis, we have the Herron School of
Art. They have a large sculpture department that creates a lot of pieces and I
have seen several that join wood and metal. Good luck! Sounds like some
experimenting may be in order. |
[ Back To Main ]
8/26/2008
Bending Cabinet Sides
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Thanks for the forum. I am considering making a floor clock cabinet that I want to have curved side panels. The front and back I can figure out because they are after all, flat. The sides will be about 8" or so deep. I need first to know what type of wood to use on the sides, thin plywood, make a form and build up my own ply panels with veneers, or what? Also what type joinery at the juncture of the curved side panels with the matching front and back pieces. I hope I have explained this adequately, if not please ask for whatever you need to know. Again, thanks for the opportunity! |
| A. |
I recommend that you do some research on a product called “wiggle board.” This
product gets its name from the ability to bend and is very flexible. Wiggle
board comes in different thicknesses and one style bends vertically and one
bends horizontally. Then I would suggest that you look into a vacuum press. I
did a quick Google and found a lot of information on vacuum bagging and veneer
work. I have seen pieces built as you describe and the joinery is usually a
groove with the panel slid into the groove and glued. Interesting project! Let
us know how you proceed and what worked for you. |
[ Back To Main ]
8/26/2008
Regluing Church Pew
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I have an old oak pew that was damaged, water, that I am reworking for a piece of furniture in my new house. One of the glue joints on the bottom section of the seat has come apart. How do I clean this up smooth so I can run it through my jointer and reglue- the surface is very rough do to the old glue residue. I am thinking about using biscuits to improve the glue joint- any thoughts on both/either. |
| A. |
There is no added strength by adding biscuits. Biscuits are an alignment tool
that I use regularly to help keep my glue ups flat or to keep them in place till
the glue dries. I would scrap off as much of the old glue as possible with a
good quality scraper before running it across the jointer. |
[ Back To Main ]
8/26/2008
Stain Car Siding
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Hi--We built a wall out of car siding that is made out of pine in our cabin up north. We haven't stained it yet. We would like it to match our existing woodwork and we have heard it is not a good idea to stain car siding. Is this true? Also, what tips do you have before we start? We have never done this before. It turned out beautifully but want it to continue to look good. Please let us know any tips you may have before we continue on. |
| A. |
I have stained pine car siding here at the lodge at American Sycamore. I love
the cabin feeling it gives. I suggest you visit a professional paint store that
can offer good advice and guide you in the right direction. I would use a
conditioner and then use a gel stain for best coverage and then a top coat of a
hard finish applied with a lambs wool pad. There are many brands on the market.
I have found it best to pick a brand and use it exclusively. . I suggest that
you do some sample boards and get the desired finish. |
[ Back To Main ]
8/26/2008
Cutting Ovals
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I am looking for a fixture or a template/guide that will allow me to set the width and length of an oval and then use the router to cut it out. Even a method for drawing a symmetrical oval would be a huge help. |
| A. |
Please take a look at Wood Haven. They are a specialty router accessories
manufacturing company that produces an oval jig. They have a very good and
informative web site. I also highly recommend Micro Fence. They make the most
accurate and precise oval jig on the market. Good luck! |
[ Back To Main ]
8/26/2008
Kitchen Cabinet Door w/Trash Can Tray
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
What would a good design be for a kitchen cabinet door that when you pull it and it swings open, a trash can tray slides into the room, and when you close it the tray slides back into the counter? I have a door and a tray holding the cans but have yet to figure out how to get this process to work. |
| A. |
Take a look at Rockler. Look up “Waste and Recycling Container.” You will
find several styles available. Both their web site and catalog are very well
illustrated and Rockler has down loadable instructions explaining their use,
function, and installation. I hope this will help you. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/27/2008
Biscuit Joinery
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I've been watching Norm Abram on the New Yankee Workshop assemble faceframes to carcasses using a slot cutter bit in a router and a plate joiner for the face frames. How does he align the plate joiner slots left and right with the continuous groove in the carcass? |
| A. |
He sets the cutter depth to match the groove depth by aligning the cutter in the groove and then locks it in place. Use the tools to line up the cuts.Unplug the tool while doing this! Do not try to measure and set the depth with a rule. This will lead to misaligned grooves. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/27/2008
Pattern in Wood Floor
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I am going to be putting in an ash floor in the house. I am planning to put a pattern in the middle of the floor using other woods like black walnut,birch, bloodwood, etc. These will be put at 45 & 90 angles to one another and be pieces @ 1/2" to 1" wide by 2" to 4" long. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I also thought about making some "bear paws" out of black walnut on another floor. Again any suggestions would be appreciated Thank you. |
| A. |
Often inlays are used instead of full thickness flooring for decorative accents. Make the inlays 1/4" thick and cut them out with a scroll saw. Make a matching negative cut in the flooring at a 6 degree bevel. The wood will drop down 3/16" into the bevel. Glue. Sand. You have your Bear feet! Sounds like a cool project! |
[ Back To Main ]
6/27/2008
Radius Making
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I have recently started woodworking and enjoy it very much. Recently I was making a rocking chair, the plans called for making the rocker legs with radius'. It required a 50 in and a 49 1/2 radius. How do I make them, do I use a trammel, can I make my own trammel. What is the basic rule or premise in making radius'. Thank-you very much. By the way I REALLY enjoy your magazine and its articles which I find very interesting and helpful. |
| A. |
Thanks for the magazine complements! I put my best effort into them. Try this tip for laying out radii of desired dimensions. Use a furring strip and cut it longer than the desired arc. Drive a dry wall screw so the point just barely comes through the width of the strip about 3/4" from one end. Measure from the screw tip point down the length of the wood strip and notch the edge at the length desired. Insert a fine point black Sharpie marker into the notch and draw the radius. It will cost you 3 bucks for the strip, pen and screw and be a life time jig that is priceless. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/27/2008
Octagon Birdhouse
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I am having trouble making the top? I have made the house using 22.5 degrees. I know the top is a compound miter. Is it 22.5 degrees. If so how is it cut on a table saw ? |
| A. |
This is a job for Starett's new 5 in one Combination protractor. #148875 from Woodcraft. It will tell your how to set any compound angle for miter gauges and miter saws. Sharp Tool! |
[ Back To Main ]
6/27/2008
Aquarium Stand
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I am an amateur to intermediate woodworker. I have an aquarium that is 55 gal. I would like to build a wooden stand for it. I am partial to Mission style or possibly Shaker style. I can't find plans for this type of project. I could modify a couch stand or other plan but the weight bothers me . 55 Gal. at roughly 8lbs. is 440 lbs. plus aquarium , rocks ,filter ,fish etc. I need this stand to be 50 in. long X 13 in. deep X 31in. high . can you give me any sources? I am sure I can build such a thing, but I would like a design that is extra strong. |
| A. |
In all my days of woodworking I have not seen an aquarium stand. So I went to the library in my shop (I have tons of books) and found found Shop Drawings of Shaker volume one and 2. ISBN numbers 36399-17-1 and 936399-18-x respectively Any worktable design with legs that are tenoned and stout will fill your design needs I believe. Woodcraft sells these. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/27/2008
Joinery
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
How do you choose between biscuits, dowels, mortise-and-tenon, loose tenon Dowelmax, or Domino joints for a project? I'm sure I've forgotten several other possible techniques. |
| A. |
Biscuits for convenience, Tenons for strength, Dowels for frustration, dominos for innovation and dovetails for beauty and strength. Tenons are the strongest so I lean in this direction if stress will be applied to the joint. Really you left out the most important part. What glue?I like the new Gorilla Wood Glue a lot. It dries almost clear. Beats the yellow color of most dried wood glue any day. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/27/2008
Hexagon
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
How is the best and easiest way to make a hexagon? I am making a hexagon table top thank you . |
| A. |
Draw six equilateral triangles and stick them together. These are triangles that have equal sides and 60 degree angles in every corner. Or draw a circle and use a compass to to divide the circumference into six equal parts. Both work just fine. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/27/2008
Wedged Tenon
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I am working a project where I would like to use wedged tendons. I haven't found a lot of information on how to do this joint in books. Do you have any recommendations on the shape of the mortise, the shape of the wedge, the width of the slot in the tendon? |
| A. |
The wedges need to be as thin as possible without breaking while driving. So use the band saw to cut these with the grain for strength. The mortise shape can be anything. The tenon must be snug by not driven in with force. Once glued and wedged it is there to stay!!! |
[ Back To Main ]
6/27/2008
Painting
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
Hello. What HVLP spray gun would you recommend for a woodworking hobbyist painting furniture I make. I have an air compressor. There are so many to choose from including some self contained it's hard to choose, can you make a recommendation ? |
| A. |
Woodcraft sells a Earlex HVLP sprayer for 299.99. It is a bargain. It will save you time and make you very happy. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/27/2008
Wooden Arch
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
How is the best way to construct a wooden arch? It would be about 4 feet in dia, and to the size of a 4x4 post in its arched beam. Is it laminate strips glued together or cutting portions of a circle from dimension lumber and splicing them together? |
| A. |
If this is an arbor see the April, May issue of Woodcraft Magazine. They created the arch in a brilliant way. I have always made a form and then laminated 1/8" pieces together with Gorilla Glue. They look outstanding. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/27/2008
Jointing End Grain
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
Is their any better way to Joint end grain than using a Delta/Rockwell Uniplane? |
| A. |
How about using a low angle record block plane that is sharp? This is the age old method that is overlooked today. Plus you can tune up these edges by using the compact belt sander with a light touch. It really helps here a lot! |
[ Back To Main ]
6/27/2008
Grandfather Clock
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
Before I die, I would like to build each of my kids a grandfather clock. Living only on Social Security, I can't afford the expensive inner workings that I see in catalogs. Is there a source for pendulum type clocks that are affordable and plans to build one that won't drain my limited income? |
| A. |
You have a big heart. This is a fine goal. The Hermele mechanical movements are my favorites at $339. If this is over budget (and it is not cheap) then go to a quartz movement and put secret compartments for valuables where the mechanical works normally go. Woodworker's Journal did a clock of mine about 18 months ago. I bet you can get a reprint of this if you want. It is Shaker inspired and can be mad in less than 35 hours. Best of Luck! |
[ Back To Main ]
6/27/2008
Router Bit/Trammel
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
Hey Scott, I'm getting ready to cut a round table top from 3/4 inch, edge glued, red oak. I would like to use a plunge router/ trammel combo cutting from the underside. What bit would you recommend? Thanks |
| A. |
A spiral upcut of solid carbide is the bit of choice. Nothing else comes close. Best of luck! Scott |
[ Back To Main ]
6/27/2008
Repairing Dining Room Table Top
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
Hello, I need some advice on repairing some damages to my nice dining room table. The table top is in pretty good condition but I have some damage that I would like to know how to repair for DIY'er. 1) I have some heat damage where the tabletop planks were butted together. 2) The corners have been scraped so much where the stain/color is removed. Any advice? Thanks in advance! |
| A. |
Try Liberon Ring Remover first. See Woodcraft.com. If this does not help:Sand down the whole top if necessary and flood it with a matching stain. Is one way to go. Or since you want to tackle this on your own go to the refinishing section of a Woodcraft Store and ask for lessons on repairs. Honestly, the pros know the tricks that have to be shown to you. No writing can pass this along. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/27/2008
Decorative Support Posts
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I'm looking for some guidance to build a decorative support post - not a turned post, but one with panels and fluting, etc. Can you recommend a website or book that shows how to? |
| A. |
First check out Classic Designs at tablelegs.com. Lots of excellent things there at fair prices. Then google Fox Chappel Books. They have something for you there. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/27/2008
Ext Door
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I want to build a special size ext door for my porch. What wood would you choose? What corner joint? |
| A. |
Stick with Western Red Cedar or Red Wood. They are strong, light, impervious to water and they weather just fine. They glue great. Take a good stain. I recommend buying a router bit door set. All the cutters you need are in this one bit Kit! Use Tightbond 3 and enjoy! |
[ Back To Main ]
6/27/2008
Inset Hinges
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
installed partial wrap hinges on a frameless cabinest and all the doors won't close easily. Something seems to bind as the door gets within 1-2 inches of closing. Do you have any suggestions to fix the problem? |
| A. |
Adjust the barrel of the hinge away from the case about 1/16". Look at the elongated screw slots. This is designed to allow these adjustments. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/27/2008
Cutting Out Hinge Sets
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I want cut out hinge recesses for doors with a hinge of a radius of !/4 inch- what size bit do I use and what size collar do I use? |
| A. |
Use a 1/2" bit with a 916" ID collar.
|
[ Back To Main ]
6/27/2008
Miters
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
If a hexagon from point to point is four foot what is the length of each piece? |
| A. |
Sounds like a game table is in the works. You end up with 6 equilateral triangles with 2 feet per side. So the answer is 2 feet. Geometry is always fun. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/27/2008
Computer Desk Top
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
How thick should the top of the desk be? |
| A. |
The normal thickness is 3/4" for both hard and soft wood. That is certainly a time proven durable dimensions. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/27/2008
Chair Legs
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I'm making a swivel chair and have square column going down from the seat. How can I make the legs and attach them so they are solid and not pull away from the frame? |
| A. |
Stay away from sliding dovetails here. They always break out. Use mortise and tenon joints with wood glue and forget about it. Modern glue are strong enough for this job. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/27/2008
TV Lift
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I would like to build a cabinet for a LCD TV and have the TV raise and lower thru the top by using a lift. Are there any plans for such? |
| A. |
Woodcraft Magazine did a great one about a year ago. Go to their website for details. It is perfect and the lift is smooth running. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/27/2008
Silverware Chest
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I would like to make a silverware chest for my best friend and his wife. Do you know of any plans and where can you get the parts to hold the silver? Any help would be greatly appreciated. |
| A. |
The best place to get this is on Fine Woodworkings website. Do the search and it will be there. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/27/2008
Veneer & Orange Oil
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
Is "Orange Glo wood cleaner and polish" ok to use on veneer? Just a little worried it could loosen the bond. And, what would be best product for weekly use on veneer? |
| A. |
If any solvent is used to clean veneer it can cause problems with the adhesive below. I like orange oil on solid wood. I just use a dusting rag on veneer. If you need more shine on it, why not hit it with a semi gloss varnish or wipe on polyurethane after cleaning the surface with a light all cotton cloth dampened with low odor mineral spirits? |
[ Back To Main ]
6/27/2008
T-Molding
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I own your 690 router and it is mounted in PC table. I would like the steps to create t-molding with rounded edge, placed between two rooms of tile. difference with floor level is approx 1/32 1/16. After looking at the PC Poster of bits i think i have what i need to complete job. Need technique. |
| A. |
Use wide stock that is dimensioned properly. Do the round over on the two wide edges. Cut the t slot and rip the narrow stock off the wide profiled stock with the table saw. Always keep the boards wide as possible during profile work on router table. Use a good fence. You can also use feather boards on the router table fence for better safe control. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/27/2008
Wood Kitchen Countertop
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I've been searching for the best way to make a wood countertop for a kitchen. I'd like to make it from 4",5",6" x 3/4" strips of cherry. I don't want butcher block, but do want alternating widths in the design. I thought I might biscuit the pieces together and then attach it to 3/4" Novaply (like used under laminates). Is there a better way to do it? Also, what kind of finish would be best? I want it as durable & resilient as possible for wood. |
| A. |
Here is the straight story. Wood will expand and contract 1/8" per foot across the grain. So expect 1/4" movement in a 24" top. Do not glue the counter top down. Fasten it with screws from below in the very center 8". Keep the back edge 1/8" away from the wall and either use clear silicone caulk or a trim strip to cover the gap. If I was doing this I would use Mirror Coat from System Three. It is a two part epoxy that will last. I buy mine at Woodcraft. Their part number is #148352 and it costs 102.99 for 3 quarts. Smaller quanties are available. Be certain to follow all safety instructions and work in a well ventelated area. Epoxies are not O.K. to breath in. WOrk safe! |
[ Back To Main ]
6/27/2008
Flooring
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
Moving into a brand new 700 sq ft shop. The concrete floor was machine finished to a smooth surface. I don't want to invest in what I'd rally like--wood. Any thoughts on an alternative? Coatings tile etc? |
| A. |
O.K. Call me silly but I opted for remnant indoor/outdoor carpeting. It behaves, cleans easily, and reduces shop noise. Plus it is easy on the back and feet and it insulates. No pad under and definitely no glue to hold it down. It works great! |
[ Back To Main ]
6/27/2008
Oak Stairs
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
My EX son in law stained the oak stairs a dark walnut stain and they look horrible. I don't have any idea about what he did but I'd like to refinish them properly. Can you please tell me the best way to remove the old finish so I can refinish. I plan to put on a varnish/poly finish unless you have a better idea. Thanks. |
| A. |
I honestly hate to say that you are about to take on one of the most demanding jobs in woodworking. So he probably put heavy duty Polyurethane on top right. If so, you will need to use a Zip Strip product with methelene Cloride. This is not to be inhaled or touched by bare skin at any time. Follow the directions to the letter. And please wear a carbon based respirator and have all the windows open with the fans running. Lots of sanding too. Start with 80 grit , 100, 150 then 220.
|
[ Back To Main ]
6/27/2008
Boot and Shoe Rack
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I have a boot and shoe rack that I am making for a corner hallway. I need to join two 1x10x8 boards together and still have enough strength to hold up to three levels of shelving. What would be the best way to connect the mitered ends together and hold up end to end. |
| A. |
I used #20 biscuits for mine and they work great. Naturally the shelving must be supported with sturdy shelf brackets. Be sure to glue both parts of the miter (size the joint) before clamping! |
[ Back To Main ]
6/26/2008
Go Cart
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
Sir: Where can i find a set of woodworking plans to build a go cart for my son? |
| A. |
There is a fine simple plan at the Booneville Lions Club website. Search soapboxderbyplans and it will link you to a measured drawing that you can make in a weekend. Make the brake especially heavy duty. Safety first! |
[ Back To Main ]
6/26/2008
Chairs
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I have eight kitchen chairs captain type. The chair legs are not cut square to the floor. How would I go about marking the legs so they would have a level and full surface on the floor? Is there a way to make a jig to use because I have eight chairs. |
| A. |
No JIG IS NEEDED. Simply set the chair on a flat table top or work bench Lay a 1/2" thick piece of wood flat to the table top. Use a fine point sharpie marker to mark all leg sides by using the block as a straight edge with the marker point flat to the wood block at all times. Think of it like an ink marking gague. After all legs are marked I like to use the Japanese Razersaw to trim to length. The final tune up can be done with a power sander until the chair is rock solid. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/25/2008
Door Shrinkage
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
My raised panel wooden door has panels that the edges have contracted and have visible gaps with light in areas. How can I correct this situation to re seal the door and make it air tight and look good and not use sealant? |
| A. |
Center the door in the bottom rail so the light vanishes on both sides. Then use a super type glue to tack the door only in the very center of the botton rail grove. Do not glue the entire edge. This would eventually crack. Only put a few drops right in the ccnter. This will allow the expansion without splitting. And it will stay in place. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/25/2008
Style for Side of Bookshelf
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I'm trying to match a book case to our bedroom furniture. The side style of the bookcase needs to be 3" wide and have 4 - 1/2" half rounds coming out (opposite of a fluted style). It is cut out of a 3/4" x 3" wide board. Is something like this production made or will I have to mill it myself? I'm not sure how I would accomplish milling it so I hope you can direct me to some supplier. |
| A. |
You are in luck! Try www.tablelegs.com. Or call 800 843 7405. They will probably have what you want. They are quality suppliers. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/25/2008
Cutting a Grove
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
Which is the best way to cut a grove, on table saw or a router with a few to cut? |
| A. |
I usually just use a table saw for a limited number of groves. Still I always use a push block for added control and a push stick as needed. Plus the cut can be sized perfectly to fit nominal thicknesses of 5 or 6mm plywood on a saw easily without buying a mm bit. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/25/2008
Cabinet Height
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
Building a closet for a room that is 8ft tall; want cabinet to be as tall as it can be and still stand up in the room; cab 1 is 16in deep and cab 2 is 24in deep; how do i figure out the height to fit. |
| A. |
The key dimensions are 94" and 96". In geometry the formula is c=a cosec A= b sec for right triangles. Trust me, the numbers are right. A simple test is to use a 1/4" thick sheet of 4 x 8 plywood and a tape measure to experiment as you pivot the plywood on edge. Even cardboard taped together works too. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/25/2008
Filling Before Pressure Treating
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
Greetings from England. I am re-surfacing a balcony (veranda) using untreated KD spruce boards and will be returning them to the supplier for pressure treating once all the cuts and notches have been done. They are in an exposed exterior location so I want the treatment to get into all the cuts to ensure longest possible life. There are one or two imperfections in the boards where dead knots have partially or completely dropped out and I intend to fill them using a sawdust and glue filler. What glue is best to use considering their exposure to weather and should I fill these holes before or after treatment? If I do this before treatment will the sawdust filler absorb the treatment and closely match the rest of the boards or is the pressure treating process liable to blow out the fills? Also, should I allow for any expansion of the wood during treatment when cutting or will they return to original size once dried? |
| A. |
Cheers,I recommend using Tightbond Three here mixed with spruce saw dust after the wood has been pressure treated. Ask the people how long it with take before you paint or finish. Unless they dry the wood prior to sending it back to you - expect to wait two months until the pressure treated wood is dry enough to seal. It will shrink back to original dimensions after drying in the sun for 6 months. What a fine project! No pub time for you for a while! |
[ Back To Main ]
6/25/2008
Hardwood Flooring
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I've been enjoying Scott Phillip's shows. When he did Stone Haven, he was doing a segment on custom hardwood floors. He was going to show how to make the flooring. Sad to say, I missed that show. How is the flooring made? I have an old farm house that I would like to put old fashioned hardwood flooring in several of the rooms. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks |
| A. |
Here is the simple way. Use the tongue and groove cutter in the molder head on your table saw. First dimension all boards being certain to S4S the defects out. Once all tongue and grooves are cut on the flooring edges I like to use a 3/4" dado cut that is 3/16" deep on the bottom length of each floor board to force it to stay flat to the floor. This is called stress relieving the bottom. Then use resin paper on the sub-floor to stop squeaks. Use the Porter Cable Floor nailer and you are a PRO!
|
[ Back To Main ]
6/24/2008
Miter Cut
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I have installed interior steps. I want 1/4 round moulding between the steps and the riser and the wall. What angle do I use on the 1/4 round mounding? What angle--- the 1/4 round on the flat step meeting the 1/4 round coming up from the step below and then then the 1/4 round coming down from the step above meeting the 1/4 round on the flat step below.
|
| A. |
I'm not exactly sure all the areas you want to place the molding. It sounds as if you are placing the molding on the left and right edge of each tread and riser where it meets the wall. With that in mind and the stairs being plumb and square, you would be making a series of cuts at a 45 degree angle. I how I understood you correctly. Mike |
[ Back To Main ]
6/24/2008
Building My First Set of Cabinets
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I am about to embark on building my first set of cabinets for my new shop. I know there are some general rules for building a caninet, however I have not been able to find them. Where do I start? |
| A. |
A great way to start is to learn the basics of cabinet design and construction, types of material used, and basic face frame construction. There is a great soft cover book to start with that will explain this detail. The book is " Building Traditional Kitchen Cabinets" by Jim Tolpin. I know it says kitchen cabinets, but the same building techniques are the same. Also it would be a good idea to take classes at your local Woodcraft Supply Store. Welcome, and good luck. Mike |
[ Back To Main ]
6/24/2008
Backyard Playground Plans
Answer provide by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
Good day to you sir, I live in Scotland, Great Britain and am having difficulty in finding plans for building kids activity centers:- i.e. climbing frames,swings and slides etc. could you possibly let me know if there is anywhere state side that supplies these kind of plans. thank you.
|
| A. |
I have not personally used any of these sites, but I was told a good web site to go to, is Google "backyard playground plans". Good luck. Mike |
[ Back To Main ]
6/24/2008
Quality Furniture Plans
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
Where can I get quality furniture plans. All I can find are simple idiot plans where you cut and screw two or three boards together and call it a table or bookcase. Thank you for your help. |
| A. |
A great place to start might be on the internet and Google "furniture plans free". This will take you to an area with tons of plan possibilities. I am not suggesting that this is the only place to go, you can also check with Wood Magazine, Fine Woodworking, and any other major woodworking magazine. I use the venues to get an idea of what type and a general idea of the construction ideas, then I adapt it to my needs. I have never found a set of plans I did not change. Try it. Mike
|
[ Back To Main ]
6/20/2008
Tap Cons in Wood
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
Can a tap con be used to fasten a metal shelf to wood? |
| A. |
Tap cons are designed to be used in concrete not wood. Depending on the size and weight of the metal shelf, you can use wood screws by pre-drilling hole in the shelf. Mike |
[ Back To Main ]
6/20/2008
Outdoor Trim
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
Can you please tell me the best type of wood trim for my house? Part of it will be in the sun all day. Thank You. |
| A. |
If it was me, I would be using a PVC type trim. Something that will never rot or decay, and does not need any maintenance. If you are OK with painting, then consider using cedar. Mike |
[ Back To Main ]
5/7/2008
Box Joints
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I made a jig to make box joints(similar to Uncle Norms) for a toy box I am building for my twin 1 year old girls. My question is, are finger joints supposed to go together easily? I had a lot of resistance in my tester pieces and some of the "fingers" broke off. I added shims to my dado but the result never changed. Do I need to also move the key, or am I just missing something obvious. |
| A. |
Achieving a good fit when cutting box joints on the table saw, three things must be equal. Let us say for example you want to cut ½” fingers: the dado head must be exactly set to ½” wide and just a hair higher than the thickness of the material. The distance between the finger and the dado head has to be exactly ½. And of course the finger must be exactly ½”. If you are cutting tight fitting joints the most likely culprit is the distance between the blade and finger is too close. |
[ Back To Main ]
5/7/2008
Bow Arm Morris Chair
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
How would I make the arms on a Bow Arm Morris Chair? My only power tools are contractor table saw, miter saw, and hand drill. |
| A. |
I love building a Morris chair and bending the arms are the most fun and fascinating. We use a quarter-sawn white oak board that is one inch thick, 42” long and six inches wide. We steam it in our home made steamer (a piece of PVC pipe, two tea kettles, and a Coleman stove). After one hour we quickly remove the arms and clamp them to our bending form. One student (the biggest and heaviest) walks up the board attached to the bending jig and the board bends right to the form. We then leave it clamped up over night. We have had great results in the past with this method. No breakage and very little bounce back after the arms are dry. I also highly recommend our class here at American Sycamore Woodworkers' Retreat in building this chair. May 26-31st www.americansycamoreretreat.com |
[ Back To Main ]
5/7/2008
Building a Headboard
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
How do I attach the panel of the headboard to the post on either side? My intention was to place a slot down the inside of post and insert the panel. Don't have a mortise tenon. Can I rent one? Is this the right approach? Thanks |
| A. |
just finished a large bed with four post construction for a client. I used my router and routered a ½”wide X 1” deep groove into the post and also into the edge of the headboard. I used a piece of ½” x 1 7/8” Baltic birch for my spline. |
[ Back To Main ]
5/7/2008
Door for House
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I'm going to build an entry door for a small building. Wood to be cedar. Opening is 30" x 68". Door thickness to be 1.5". What's best design. I plan to use 2x4's as outside frame, with 1/4" plywood (birch) as center. The frame would be slotted to receive the 1/4" plywood. Then I would add cedar fence slats (5/8" x 3-1/2") vertical & on each side of plywood. Using lots of Titebond III. The 1/4" slot in 2x4's to be cut (edge, 1.75" deep)on each 2x4. Sound okay? Any suggestions? |
| A. |
Sounds great to me. I ran this past my good friend Dave Sochar that makes doors for a living. He agreed that your system would work just fine. Dave stated that to be sure you finish the door on all sides with a good outdoor finish. |
[ Back To Main ]
5/7/2008
Removing Stain from Redwood Lumber Deck
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
My deck from 1978 is made with redwood lumber and was stained with solid acrylic decking stain. The stain has been peeling and I want to remove all the stain and replace with semi-color decking oil based stain. What is the best way to remove the stain. If a sander is used what type of sander and what grit sandpaper. I would like to know the correct procedure and all the steps necessary to do the job correctly. before I hire someone to do it. Pressure washing is not good because the wood is soft. Please help |
| A. |
If it was my deck I would first try scraping the deck with a heavy duty scraper. I would try to remove as much of the acrylic stain as possible by scraping to help keep my sanding belts loading up, then use a 40 grit belt and a 4 x 24 belt sander. I suggest that you try an area first and see what results this gives you. If you have a large area I am wondering if a commercial floor sander from the rental yards would work. I would check with them and see what advice they offer.
|
[ Back To Main ]
2/25/2008
Dovetail Jig
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I am considering purchasing the new Porter Cable
Dovetail jig. I am planning to build a
floor to ceiling TV wall unit in Maple.
Do you recommend any technique for dovetail joinery for wider sections
than 24" ? (32"). |
| A. |
Just build it in sections that fit your jig and
then biscuit the carcasses together. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/25/2008
Shaping Sculpture
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I am a sculptor and my media is 1/4" &
1/2" thick Masonite. All my forms have long grace fill curves
(www.barbourstudio.com). What would be the best way to cut and finish my forms
to keep a smooth arc? I currently use a hand held jig saws and assorted belt
sanders. |
| A. |
I use a 4 ½”grinder with a Kutzall carbide head
for shaping chairs and rockers. This
unit is available from Rockler or Wood Craft.
It is aggressive yet gives me great control. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/25/2008
Fluted Dowels
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Will the use of these be strong enough for a
chair back? I am building a FLW
Straight back chair using 3/4" "stays" as the back. I want to
use 1/4" dowels to attach the back to the top and bottom. |
| A. |
I am not much of a dowel fan and I normally do
not use a dowel joint were strength is needed as in the chair back. I suggest that you consider mortise and
tenons. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/25/2008
Box Making
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I need to make a tack box for my daughter-in-law
it will be approx 4ft. x 32 inches by 35 inches high. Can I make this as I
would a small box then cut the top off and if so is there an easy way to do it? |
| A. |
Yes, just be careful. I would make through cuts on the two larger
sides and only cut through most of the way on the other two sides. I would the use a hand saw to finish cutting
all the way through and separating the two pieces Then use a hand plane and
clean up the edges. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/25/2008
Dinner Plate
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
How do I create a template to use my router to
create an indent in the center of a 12" x 12" x 3/8" maple plate
in which the dinner plate would rest? |
| A. |
I would cut a circle using a hole saw or circle
cutter on a drill press the required diameter from a piece of ½ plywood. Then use a template guide or top bearing bit
use the template with double stick tape to control the cut. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/25/2008
Turning Blocks
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
How do you create a turning block for cabriole
legs without face gluing several pieces together, which would show glue lines
on the finished product? |
| A. |
You would have to find a solid thick piece of
lumber. Try Irion Lumber. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/25/2008
Queen Anne Chairs
Answer provided by Marc Adams
| Q. |
I am in the process of making 5 Queen Anne period side
chairs using Norman Vandal's drawings. I
would like to know how to scale the dimensions to make the captains chairs to
match these. Any advice? |
| A. |
I think the best place to get the correct answer is from Phil Lowe. He owns the
Furniture Institute of Massachusetts and wrote an article that was in Fine
Woodworking magazine a few years ago on scale drawing. Phil can be reached at
furniture@verizon.net. He will get you
going in the right direction. You might also check out a publication called The
Woodworkers Log Book that is sold by Lee Valley Tools. This book has a great
section on size requirements for all kinds of chairs, including Captain’s
Chairs. Not quite the exact answer, but it will get you going in the right
direction. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/25/2008
Chest Top Warping
Answer provided by Marc Adams
| Q. |
PLEASE GIVE ME SOME ADVICE ON HOW TO PREVENT A
GLUE UP TOP TO A CHEST FROM WARPING OR SLIGHTLY TWISTING. I HAVE MADE SEVERAL
CEDAR CHESTS OF RED OAK, CHERRY AND WALNUT. I NEVER USE BOARDS WIDER THAN 3
1/2" AND IT IS A HIT AND MISS GAME? |
| A. |
Make sure you are using kiln
dried wood. Also start by selecting the
flattest wood available. You can face
joint each piece flat first on the jointer.
I suggest that if you face joint that you glue up and clamp with good
straight bar clamps. Make certain that
the boards are flat on the steel portion of the clamps while drying. Movement in wood is perpetual. We can not alter the natural direction wood
movement. Maybe try using “battens” on
the back side of the glue up to keep the top flat. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/25/2008
Replacing Roll Up Door on Storage Shed
Answer provided by Marc Adams
| Q. |
I will be making a replacement half-size roll up
door for my storage shed to replace one I made from yellow pine 13 years ago.
This time I would like to use a material more suited for this application. I am
considering bald cyprus
and wonder if this would work better than the yellow pine. |
| A. |
Bald Cyprus should weather
well. Also consider mahogany or white
oak, they seem to survive well outside as well.
If you plan on gluing make sure you use an outdoor glue like epoxy or Titebond
III. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Compound Angled Roof
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I'm trying to join 6 triangular pieces of
3/4" cedar together to form a roof for a 6 sided bird house. The drip-line edge of the triangle is no
problem but the adjoining sides are beyond me.
I'm using a compound miter saw to cut the roof pieces and would like
help determining the angles I need to use to make it all fit. |
| A. |
Not knowing all the sizes you are working with,
I think the angle for the sides would
be 30 degrees. With three sides combined
would equal 90 degrees, and the same
with the other three, completing the roof. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Kitchen Table
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I want to build a Kitchen table that is similar
to a Tressel table but I want it to open in the middle to add boards. I need to
have the legs away from the corners so people can slide around the L shaped
corner bench I have. Any ideas or plans for a table like this. I can't find any
plans like this. |
| A. |
I don’t have plan like that per say, But what
you can do is what I do, and that get a set
of plans for each type of table and take what you need from each to attain what you want. Also, visit a Rockler
Hardware store, because I believe they have the hardware slides you will need. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Finger Joints
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I want to build a Woody wagon and many of the
pieces are joined with finger joints. What is the best tool/technique to make
finger joints? |
| A. |
There are 2 main ways to cut finger joints. One is with a
dovetail jig, and the other is with
your table saw and a dado blade. Both work just as well. If you don’t have a dovetail jig, don’t worry. There
is a simple box joint jig you can build in the
current issue of Wood Magazine Issue 181 Dec./Jan. 2007/2008. It would
still be on the shelf at Home
Depot or any woodworking or book store.Have
fun building the wagon.
|
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Enlarging Plan Dimensions
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I am building the New Yankee Workshop Outdoor
Patio Table and have their plans. It is calling for a 4 foot diameter top and I
would like to increase the top size to 5 feet. Is there a scale one should use
when increasing sizes like this? |
| A. |
There is a web site that will walk you through
the process of enlarging plan to scale.
In the search window of Google type, Enlarging
plan dimensions, the site
will pop up. It’s and easy one to follow. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Bannister Post
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
How to install a bannister post 4in x 4in on a
hardwood floor with an open crawl space underneath the floor. Is there some
type of steel plate with a bolt welded to it, that can be resest in the bottom
of the oak post? (I don't want to toe nail it to the floor.) This bannister and
5 spindles will be 4' long, at the entrance of the front door, with split post
fastened to the wall. Any ideas. |
| A. |
I’m not aware of a steel plate, although that
does not mean there isn’t one, or you can’t
make one. The method I have used is to cut a hole in the floor the ½ the size ( 2x2) of the post with a jig saw, trim the
post to the same size at the bottom (2x2) slide
the trimmed through the hole and bolt the post in the crawl to a floor joist
for strength. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Corner Joints
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I have an ongoing need to make corner
joints-finger joints w/ 1&1/8" maple. Which is the preferred way to
make these joints? I need to make as many as 80 joints for one order. Should I
use a dado blade or a router and jig? |
| A. |
I think you would be better off using the table
saw with a jig and dado blade. You can
stack several boards together at one time and complete the job in a fraction of the time a router and jig would take. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Porch Floor
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
HOW WOULD YOU RECOMMEND ATTACHING MAHAGONY
T&G PORCH FLOORING? COULD I USE 16GA GALVANIZED STRAIGHT NAILS--I HAVE A
FINISH NAILER AND A FRAMING NAILER--SO I'D LIKE TO BE ABLE TO USE EITHER. |
| A. |
The best way to install tongue and groove
flooring is to use a floor cleat nailer. The
two nailers you mentioned could be used, but I don’t think you will like the outcome. If this is the only time you will
need to use the flooring nailer, than don’t
buy one, rent one for the job. Your local home centers rent them for a few bucks a day. Trust me, you will be
much happier. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Ash for Workbench
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
What is the down side of using Ash to make a
woodworking bench? It is hard, heavy, and inexpensive. |
| A. |
I can’t think of a down side. Go for it. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Shed Doors
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I'm building shed doors to replace existing ones
that have fallen apart. They where made with tongue & groove carsiding,
with a 1x4 frame nailed on the front & back. I plan to make new frames with
halflap joints. Hopefully this will keep the doors square over time. Should I
glue the carsiding and then screw the frames together, with the carsiding held
between the inside and outside frames? Or will this split from wood movement? |
| A. |
It’s OK to glue the carsiding together, but when
you attached the half lap frames, you
may need to allow for some wood movement. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Goose Neck Moulding
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I would like to build a mirror frame with a
goose neck molding as seen on period furniture.
I would appreciate any suggestions as to profile shape and how to rout
it. |
| A. |
Here is a great step by step
reference book for what you’re looking for. It’s called
Taunton’s
Complete Illustrated Guide To Period Furniture Details by Lonnie Bird. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Type of Wood to Use
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I
am working on an American flag project and would like to know if there is a
wood with a naturally occurring blue (or bluish) coloring. Would prefer not to
use a dye but will do that if I don't find something natural soon. |
| A. |
Sorry
not to my knowledge but there is sometimes blue streaks through poplar lumber.
Perhaps you could visit a hardwood dealer and look through the pile for the
mineral stained boards that have a blue tint! |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Walnut Wood for Cutting Boards?
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I
make butcher block cutting boards. I live in southeast Iowa. I have been told that walnut cannot be
used for this because it has an acid in that can make people sick. I ended up
making clocks out of the ones I made and they came out great. Walnut is such a
beautiful wood I would still like to make cutting boards with them. Have you
heard this and do you have any suggestions? I have seen walnut boards online
for sale. They ignore my e-mails when I write them. Could this be the area I
live? |
| A. |
All
of the research I did on this subject says that walnut is save to use in a
cutting board. I called my friend that
makes cutting boards for his living and he reports that he has sold 1000’s of
walnut included boards with no problems reported. He stated that as long as the boards were not
being “eaten” everything would be OK.
Too much roughage? |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Workbench Height
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
How
can I determine what the best height for my workbench is? I am 5' 8" tall.
I use the bench mostly with power tools, such as routers, sanders. I use it to
measure and mark. The bench will have an end vise with bench dog holes
distributed across the top. I am thinking of going with 36" as the height.
What disadvantages exist for this height? |
| A. |
The
distance from your hands to the floor by standing up straight with your hands
down and your arms straight is often the recommended bench height. I have found that I like and I am more
comfortable with a higher bench. I would
do a mock up and see what best fits you and your work style. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Cutting Wedgets (shimmes)
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I'm making a rocking horse for my granddaughter and it calls for 20
10" long
wedges that are 5/8 thick at one end. Is there a jog I can make to make all wedges
the same? |
| A. |
Take
a look at the book Tablesaw Techniques.
You should be able to find this book at Woodcraft, Rockler, or any good
woodworking store. You can take a piece
of plywood 6” wide by 24”long cut the desired wedge shape into the edge of the
¾” plywood and build a hold down to trap your blank piece of wood into this
wedge. Line the edge of the plywood with
your blade and advance this into and through the blade cutting the wedge. As on all new techniques, think it through
and be careful. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Louver Shutters/Doors
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I am trying to make some exterior louver and
board and batten shutters. Is there a
way to make louvered shutters without a louver groover? I have access to routers and saws, but I have
not been able to figure how to make grooves for louvers. Also, do you have any suggestions for board
and batten shutters? |
| A. |
When I
worked in a cabinet shop we once made several large plantation style shutters
using routers and shop made jigs. As I remember it was very labor intensive and
was very expensive for the customer. You might want to consider a kit. Take a
look at www.diyshutters.com Kestrel Shutters
& Doors. They sell kits and will save you some money over buying from a
normal supplier. If you are set on building your own, I recommend that you
mortise and tenon your frames and build the jigs and fixtures to produce the
size of shutters that will fit your needs. I did a Google on “Making Your Own
Shutters” and found several helpful sites. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
Standard Wood Door
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
What's
the purpose of a bevel at the edge of a standard door when installing? |
| A. |
I
would guess that they bevel the edge to make it less likely to split off. When building a cabinet or piece of furniture
with inset/flush doors I will bevel the edges of the door for a good fit. By beveling the edge back, I still get a
crisp fitting door at he point where the doors meet. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
Penny vs. Gauge
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I'm
a beginner building my first workbench.
The plans call for 8d and 16d nails but my Porter Cable nailer(s) call
for "gauge" nails. How do I
know which nail to use? Is there some
type of conversion chart? |
| A. |
I
found several on the web by doing a google and several of my books have a
conversion chart for nails. I
recommend that you practice on scrap and just see what works for you. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
Bombe Chest Plans
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I
see you have plans for a bombe jewelry box.
I have been having difficulty finding a plan for a bombe chest of
drawers. Any ideas of where I might find
them? |
| A. |
I
found several ideas and a good article from Fine Woodworking Magazine. Take a look at their web site for additional
information. www.taunton.com. Also my
good friend Randy O Donnell from Nashville
Indiana is building one in his
shop now. I had the pleasure of visiting
Randy last month and boy is it going to be a beauty. Take a look at Randy’s web site as well. www.randallodonnell.com. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
Cutting Board
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I
have made a kitchen cutting board from glued up quartersaw red oak. What can I use
as a finish that will seal the wood but not be harmful when cutting meats on
it? I'm new at this so any help will be appreciated. |
| A. |
I
suggest Behlen’s Salad bowl finish available from most mail order companies and
Rockler and Woodcraft. This is a good finish and food safe. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
Cutting Baseboards
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I have tried to cut baseboards to a 45 degree angle and have not been
successful. I have tried using the measurements provided on the owners manual,
and can't get it right.
What am I doing wrong? |
| A. |
I
have trimmed out homes from $30,000 to over 3 million dollars and there are NO
such things as a square corner or a flat floor.
You need to learn to cope cut your joints to fit. Most good trim
carpenters use a small coping saw and relieve the wood just back of the cut
allow the edges to meet perfectly. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
Table Tops
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I
am looking for the ultimate devise for gluing up table tops, panels, that will
not ripple. Is there jig I can make that will eliminate this problem. I need a
plan.
|
| A. |
We
build a lot of tables here at the school and we glue up a lot of panels. I like to use biscuits to help level up. We use the Adjustable clamp #72 style heavy
duty bar clamps. We use a scrap piece
between the clamp and our work not to “clamp mark” our work piece. I also use two inch X two inch scraps of waxed
¼” plywood to raise the clamps up off the work to avoid that dark mark left by
iron clamp and glue. I use 2 x2 clamping
cauls band sawed into a slight bow to keep everything nice and level. If I was clamping a six foot table top I
would use 6 clamps, three on top and three on bottom with three sets of
clamping cauls clamped across both ends and in the middle. For a successful clamping job one must be
prepared. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
Uneven Table Legs
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I
enjoyed attending your table saw class at the Seattle/Tacoma woodworking show
last spring. I just completed a hallway table and one leg is 1/2"
short. How do I level the table legs
without my hallway table ending up a coffee table? |
| A. |
Thank
you for your kind words and thanks for supporting the Woodworking Show. Set you table up on something flat and close
to eye level. I use my table saw. Shim
the table leg until you get the table setting level. I have a set of brass measuring blocks in
different thicknesses. You say that one leg is ½” short. I would use my ½” brass block, lay my pencil
flat on top of the brass block and mark all the legs. Cut to line and table should set flat. Good luck. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
Reduce Interior Wall of Cabinet
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I
want to reduce the interior wall (3/4 inch thick) of an oak wood cabinet by 3/8th of an
inch. I don't want to take the cabinet
apart to do the reduction. The wall side
is 16 inches deep by 50 inches high. I
realize the process will be messy. What options do I have? I am trying to enlarge the width of the
cabinet so as to house a new double oven. |
| A. |
OH!!
YOU are asking for the impossible. I
know of no tool or technique that will accomplish what you desire. I would cut the side off the cabinet, rebuild
the face frame wider and replace the side.
Sometimes it is best to hire a professional. I suggest that you find a local cabinet maker
and discuss this with him and perhaps with an on site visit he can recommend a
satisfactory remedy. If I was set on doing
this myself and if the side is solid wood and not ply I might consider
routering out and then using a Fein Multi-Master tool to chisel out the waste
that the router left behind. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
Aquarium Stand Strength
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I have designed an aquarium stand
for my father out of 3/4" Maple Plywood.
It measures 38" wide by 30" high with a fixed shelf in the
middle. I am wondering if I put a
29Gallon Aquarium on it filled with water if it will hold up.
Any help on this matter would be greatly appreciated. |
| A. |
A gallon of water weighs 8.3 lbs. With the water and weight of the aquarium you
are over 250lbs. I would recommend that
you incorporate a frame into your design in order to support that much weight. By
adding a front and rear face frame I believe you will be fine. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
Middle Rail & Stile Joint Repair
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
The
paint along the lock-side stile and the middle rail joint on my 84 yr old house
entry panel door has cracked. I cannot find any info on how to fix the
separated joint where the middle (lock, latch) rail meets the lock stile that
caused the cracks. Plenty on repairing the ends - ex open with screwdriver, but
that won't work for a middle rail / stile joint repair. |
| A. |
I
hate to be the bearer of bad news but I think a complete stripping and repair
job is in order. If one did not mind
repairing a few screw holes I might suggest screwing two pieces of scrap wood,
one on the rail and one on the stile. Clean
out the joint best you can and then re-glue and pull together with a
clamp. When dry remove screws and repair
screw holes. Good luck! |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
Hanging a Door
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
What
is the best way to install a pre-hung door? Also, how do you go about
installing a door knob on the same door? |
| A. |
Use
cedar shims to shore up the jamb on four spots per side. Nail. Make certain the
edges of the jambs are flush with both walls before nailing the assembly in
place. Allow 1/8” gap around the entire door to the jamb. Sink 2-inch screws
through the hinges into the jamb to prevent the door from sticking down the
road. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
Stair Treads
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I'm
in the process of replacing my stair treads with maple. My problem is that no two treads measure the
same (nothing is square in this house...imagine that!) and I have gaps at the
end of the treads on each side (fronts are tight but gap appears at the
back). I've tried everything (technique,
saws, etc...) What would you recommend to fill the gaps (I would like the maple
to remain clear or possible light stain)? |
| A. |
Short of making a
cardboard template for each tread I recommend using end-beveled quarter round
to cover the gaps. Just bevel the nose for a finished look.
A bit of wood glue will tack them in place
without nailing. Fillers will just jump out at you. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
Wooden Threads
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
On
a set of plans for a workbench, they call for a 2 1/2 inch diameter end
vise. Does this mean that the male and
female threads must be cut by hand? Is
their any type of jig that can be made to help this process, especially the inside
treads. |
| A. |
The
best source for cutting wood threads is Beal Wood thread jig at J.R. Beal. They
do not have anything this large however. The old wood threads are 2 ½”. Why?
Because the coarse thread was heavy enough to prevent breakage. Usually of
beech. I do not know of a modern source for these large wooden threads. Sorry
about that! |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
Entertainment Center Plans
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
WHERE CAN I GET FREE DOWNLOADABLE PLANS FOR
ENTERTAINMENT CENTERS? |
| A. |
Try
both the Woodcraft and the Woodworker’s Journal websites. Woodcraft Magazine
just did a fine Entertainment Center Plan in the 2007 October/ Nov issue. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
Stair Tread Installation
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I'm installing
stair treads which I will make from three ply bamboo plywood. I'm vacillating
between, construction adhesive (my preference due to no holes to hide/fill),
screws with plugs on top and spiral nails with filler on top.
I'm installing on top of rough plywood builder
put in that was covered with carpet. |
| A. |
Construction
Adhesive will be fine for this application. Use lots of it! Spread the glue out
and use tons of weights to press things flat. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
Queen Anne Chairs
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I
have made a reproduction Boston Queen Anne side chair from Vandal's 1990
"Queen Anne Furniture" book and am finishing up on 5 more. I would like to know how to scale up the
chair's dimensions to make a captain's chair version and how to design the
arms. |
| A. |
Personally
I would increase the size by 10% and look at early Chippendale style arms as
the go bys. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
Eastern Red Cedar
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I
have a question concerning the use of red cedar. I am considering building a cedar chest for
my daughter and have accumulated a quantity of cedar boards. Is it advisable to use cedar for the entire
project or should I use another type of wood and just use the cedar for
lining? If I were to use cedar what is
the recommended moisture content? What
type of joinery do you recommend? |
| A. |
I
recommend solid wood for this. Knots and all! Moisture content on air dried
should be 8 to 9%. Biscuits are the corner joints that I recommend for this. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
Levels
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I
am a carpenter and levels get dropped in what not. They get expensive to
replace or irritating to keep running to the store for replacements. I was
wondering how extensive it would be to make my own. I would like it to be
comparable to crick levels where they use cherry or walnut and oak. |
| A. |
Levels
are not tough to make as long as the bubble is adjustable. Because it will get
dropped and go out of plane. So make the bubble dial adjustable and use ¼ cut
wood and you are set. I feel sorry for anyone who drops the new “handmade”
level. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/15/2008
Clock
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
When
making a clock and using usual parts you get from craft stores and such. Will
the clock still be accurate no matter how large the size of the clock you make,
saying a 2 foot diameter compared to a 6
inch diameter using the same parts, or do you have to have the right parts for
different sizes? Also making your own clock hands can the size and weight of
them affect the accurateness? |
| A. |
What
sort of movement are you using? Mechanical, quartz battery, electric? All these
choices, so little time… Anyway - buy the hands - because weight matters here,
but you will be O.K. with everything else. Experiment and have fun! |
[ Back To Main ]
2/15/2008
Drawer Slides
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
One
of my challenges in woodworking is building cabinets with multiple
drawers. I can't seem to figure out
where to mount the slides on the side wall and the drawer in order to make the
drawer level and get the correct spacing between the drawer faces. Can you offer some tips to solve this
dilemma? |
| A. |
There are mounting
templates that can be purchased for most hardware. These templates make
installation 100 times easier. So buy the templates and enjoy!
Or make your own out of peg board. Both work
great! |
[ Back To Main ]
2/15/2008
Cabinet Shelf Mounts
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I'm
making some storage cabinets for a friend's LP/CD/45 Singles collection, which
will be quite heavy. He wants the shelves to be adjustable so that he can
reorganize things from time to time, and I'm not sure what would be the
strongest way to do this. Any suggestions? Anything special I need to do with
the shelves (such as reinforcing)? |
| A. |
I
like to use shelf mounting brackets that lock into ¼” mounting holes. Steel is
stronger than brass. Both work well. I just use peg board templates to drill
perfectly lined up shelf support holes. I recommend using 3 brackets per end
and 4 along the back of the shelf boards. Apply a front trim board ¾” thick by
1 ¼” wide to stop the sagging. Then you are home free. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/15/2008
Clock Plans
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
Can
you recommend a good source for plans for a banjo wall clock? |
| A. |
Clock
Kit has one. Google it. Woodsmith also made one years ago. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/15/2008
School Clock
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
What
wood do I use if I made a school clock? Will it be hard or soft wood? |
| A. |
Go
with hardwood for this. Try walnut, cherry or hard maple. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/14/2008
Door Jamb
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
Can
you tell me where I may be able to find information on how to build a door
jamb? I am in the process of building a new entry door for my home and would
like to build a new frame/jamb from the same species wood as the door but I
don't really know how to get started. Any help would be appreciated. |
| A. |
Woodcraft
sells books on just such things. I think you will be well served to head to
their closest store to find the perfect book on doors, jambs and construction.
Fine Homebuilding also had an article on this about 4 years ago. It is worth a
web search there too. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/14/2008
Cedar Chest
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I
would like to build some cedar chests and I have a good supply of red cedar
boards that are drying in a steel shed.
All of the commercial chests I have looked at appear to be made of pine
with a cedar lining. Would I be able to
use seasoned cedar to construct a chest?
If so, what type of joinery should I consider? |
| A. |
I like to keep cedar chests simple. The real cedar chests were made in
solid eastern red cedar. The more knots - the more the aroma.. So do not seal
the interior of the chest. You want the aroma. Knots will be sappy even when
the boards are dry. They will get sticky for about a year after construction.
So plan on this. You can partially seal the knots with Shellac to minimize the
resin bleeding.
I like to biscuit the chest corners together. It
is simple and strong. Build on! |
[ Back To Main ]
2/14/2008
Simple Projects
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I
have been looking for a simple butterfly house pattern that I can use to
prepare several kits for subsequent assembly by children. |
| A. |
Check
Woodcraft. They have a great plan for this. It was in one of their first issues
of Woodcraft magazine. Very cool plan! Best of luck. |