Ask the Expert
IF YOU HAVE A PRODUCT RELATED QUESTION, PLEASE USE OUR CONTACT US FORM FOR AN IMMEDIATE RESPONSE. THIS SECTION IS RESERVED FOR GENERAL WOODWORKING RELATED QUESTIONS.
Michael Van Pelt is the founder of American Sycamore Woodworker’s Retreat. He has a reputation as the tool guru. Mike has been in woodworking for over thirty years. His knowledge of tools comes from his many years of intertwining experience in the woodworking industry. Mike’s experiences include being active as an Industrial Arts Teacher, professional instructor of power machinery and tool techniques, tool sales, management and owner of woodworking tool retail store, Delta Machinery representative and technical advisory.
If you have a question for Michael, choose the Submit Question button to the right by November 30th. We will send you a reply with Mike's response in mid-December and then post it to this page for other members to view. You never know...someone else may have the same question
IF YOU HAVE A PRODUCT RELATED QUESTION, PLEASE USE OUR CONTACT US FORM FOR AN IMMEDIATE RESPONSE. THIS SECTION IS RESERVED FOR GENERAL WOODWORKING RELATED QUESTIONS.
Listed below are questions and answers that have already been submitted.
Questions
[ Back To Main ]
9/27/2009
Dovetail Video
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Where can I find a video of how to use a dovetail jig that I can down load into my computer? |
| A. |
Take a look at U Tube. I have seen a number of tutorial videos on how to use a dovetail jig. Also please visit the following link to the Porter Cable site for dovetail instruction. I do not know of any other down loadable videos on the dovetail jig. http://www.deltaportercable.com/jigs/dovetail/
|
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9/24/2009
4212 Joint Alignment
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Is there a fix for aligning fronts and sides (when using guide option) so they are flush when cutting blind joints? Fronts are 1/16 proud of the sides. Is this intentional? Defect? This occurs on both the left and right side of the jig |
| A. |
Something is out of whack! It sounds as if the guides are not lined up correctly. It is not intentional. Take a sliding square and check both sides and see if they are square and have the proper offset. I suspect that the offset needs adjusted. |
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9/20/2009
Dovetail Jig to Buy
Answer Provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Can you tell me a GOOD and easy dovetail jig to buy , One that is easy to figer out.... |
| A. |
Take a look at the new Porter Cable dovetail jigs. Out of the box they are very simple to set up and very straight forward to operate. They come with excellent instructions and notes right on the jig for easy reference. I will also suggest that you do a search under dovetail jigs on U-Tube and you will find many being very well demonstrated. |
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9/20/2009
Cutting on an OMNIJIG
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
All instructions show making a joint for one corner of a box or drawer utilizing the left side of the jig with the outside face of the board facing the jig. How do I place the same board in the jig to make the cuts on its opposite end? Note: Once my jig and router are set up, I want to cut all my tails for several drawers before I change bits to cut the pin boards. |
| A. |
If I follow you correctly, you just simply rotate the board around keeping the outside face of the board facing the jig just like your first cut. |
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9/9/2009
Cutting 22-1/2 degree angle crown moulding
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
How do you cut a 22 1/2 degree angle? |
| A. |
There are two ways to install crown molding and figuring out the angles for cutting. Trying to explain this in this type of forum would not work to well. Here are two web sites that will explain the how-to of each, then pick the one that works for you. http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/crown-molding, the second one is,www.CutNCrown.com. |
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9/9/2009
Dovetailing
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I am a beginner woodworker. I am learning simply by teaching myself but I have run into a snag. I have a good plunge router and cannot figure out how to use it to dovetail. Do I have to have a metal dovetailing jig to be able to do this? |
| A. |
You need to have some kind of a jig, home made or store bought to create dovetails with a router. You may want to consider a fixed base router for this task, it will make your life a little easier. |
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6/24/2009
Dovetails in Plywood
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
What is the best way to cut dovetails in plywood and reduce/eliminate the tearout on the side not backed up? I am using the 24"OMNI Jig and Baltic birch plywood. I have tried taping the end, no help. The best method so far has been to wet the plywood down but it is not stopping the tear out. |
| A. |
I have
never had any great success in using plywood and cutting dovetails. My
suggestion is DON’T! I recommend and use maple and poplar. I see no advantage
to using plywood for drawers and why fight it? I have had some moderate success
in routing Baltic birch but it sure is rough on my cutters. I used a very slow
feed rate and backed the plywood up with solid scrap. I will never dovetail
plywood again. Good luck and thanks. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/16/2009
Books on Dovetail Jigs
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I bought a 4216 model porter cable dovetail jig. I know how to set it up going by the owners manual. Are there any books or other information i can get to help me do more. I would like to build some storage cabinets for my shop. I am not a beginner but also not an expert. |
| A. |
Ernie Connover's Dovetail Book is brand new and a jewel! Publisher: Fox Chappel. It will help. |
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4/16/2009
Box Joints Jig
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
Have you got any ideas for a simple box joint jig for either table saw or router table? |
| A. |
Use a 1/2" piece of scrap flat plywood, glue a 3/8" square strip of wood on it down the middle. Drill a 1" hole in the center of the length of the plywood right next to the 3/8" fence. Do not drill the fence. Clamp this jig to a router table with a 3/8" cutter. Raise and lock the cutter 3/8" up and 3/8" away from the "3/8" fence. Clamp six boards together on end securely. Make the cuts safely. Always position your hands safely to control the workpiece and stay away from the cutter. This is a technique for someone who is well versed with using router tables. It can be credited to Bob Rosendalll of The Router Workshop fame. In fact he sells this very jig with some nice improvements. |
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4/16/2009
Smoothing Dovetail Joints
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
Making an 18th century Sugar Chest recently from hard tiger maple I had difficulty shaving the dovetail joints where they stood proud with a low angle block plane which also chipped the dovetail pins. Is there a better way? A router worked better but had its draw backs and wasn't around in the 18th century. |
| A. |
Sometimes you just can not beat a good old fashioned sanding block on highly figured woods. Start with 100 then 150 and finally 220. The block stops the "rounding if the edges. |
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4/16/2009
Struggling with Dovetail Jig
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I have been struggling with my PC4212 dovetail jig, it seems no matter what (small) adjustments I make to bit depth, the joints are slightly too tight. Also, can you clear up overall dimensions on drawers with half blind dovetails? Is there a rule of thumb on the dovetail depth being typically 1/2 the thickness of the drawer side, and therefore one should 'add' one thickness to the overall dimension? |
| A. |
One thing you may want to check is that the router bit is centered exactly in
the center of the template guide. This is done with a know bit. Rockler and
Woodcraft both carry this bit. Raising and lowering the bit has to change the
size and or the tightness of the joint.
I normally use full extension drawer slides side
mounted. I build the drawer one inch smaller than the width of the opening. I
usually build the drawers as deep as possible. Let us say we have an opening of
14 wide x 17 1/2 deep x 6 high. I would cut the front and back13” wide and 5 ½”
tall. I would use 16” drawer slides with a back connector. The sides of the
drawer would be 15 ½” long. My drawer would be 13” wide and app 16” long.
Rockler has excellent illustrations of drawer building and hardware on their web
site.
|
[ Back To Main ]
4/14/2009
Dovetails for Candle Stand
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I am working on a candle stand with a round base and would like to cut sliding dovetails into the base and matching joints into the three legs. |
| A. |
I use a
lathe with an indexing head and build a plywood box over the turning to allow
the router to ride on and cut the dovetails. My lathe has 24 holes. I set it
at 8, and then rotate to 16 and the last on 24. This will equally space the
dovetails around the column. Then remove the router bit and mount it in your
router table to cut the male portion of this joint. There are several books and
articles that will explain this procedure set by step with pictures. I have
made several Shaker candle stands and they are a joy to make. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/14/2009
Thru Dovetails
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
For the 4212, for cutting thru dovetails, the tails and pins fit tightly, but the front and sides do not align exactly. I have carefully clamped the parts against the alignment guide and I do not know what else to do. Can you help? |
| A. |
It may be that the material is not squared but most likely that the side
alignment stops need to be realigned. The top edge stop and the bottom edge
stop are out of adjustment. Set up your jig and check the offset of the two
stops and adjust if necessary. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/14/2009
Varying Dovetails
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I need some help. I have a PC 4212 dovetail jig. I set up the jig and router made some test cuts, adjusted until I had everything fitting good (half blind dovetails). However each dovetail I make varies from just right to needing the pins filed to fit, to too loose. This happens with pieces cut from the same board. What am I doing wrong? |
| A. |
Just
guessing, but have you checked to be sure that your bit and template guide is in
direct center. I use a “know bit” from Woodcraft: ¼” on one end and ½” on the
other and about four inches long. Chuck up the ¼” end in your router and mount
a template guide with ½” inside diameter. Loosen your base plate screws and
center the bit and template guide. |
[ Back To Main ]
3/26/2009
Porter-Cable 4212 Dovetail Jig
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I recently bought the PC 4212 dovetail jig and have used it on a couple of projects. The most recent included making sliding dado dovetails. Cutting the dodo was easy. However, the only way I could get a snug fitting tenon board was through extensive trial and error. My final product took about 4 iterations of cutting and readjusting the dovetail. Can you tell me what I'm doing wrong and how to make this cut more efficiently? I had similar problems cutting box joints using the 1/2" router bit. I read the instructions carefully and thought I had the jig setup correctly but one set of fingers was about 3/16ths larger than the others. This must be a setup problem. I've studied the Owners Manual and Supplementary Instructions but can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. Can you offer any guidance? |
| A. |
Check and
see if your router bit and template guide is dead center in the router. I use a
“know bit” to make sure. If I am using a ½” wide dovetail bit I first make my
female cut. To make my male cut, I know that it also has to be a ½” wide in
order to get a good fit. I take material from one face then the other checking
each time with my dial calipers. It will take a few trial and error cuts. |
[ Back To Main ]
3/26/2009
Dovetail Jig Cuts
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
When cutting half blind dovetails on my PC 4210 Jig 3 of the 4 the drawer tops align but the 4th seems to always be misaligned. This causes a problem when I dado out the draw bottom the slot on the 4th side doesn't align. What am I doing wrong? |
| A. |
Now this
is a stumper! I could see if two sides were off but just one? Ok…I discussed
this with Master Cabinet Maker and all around good guy John Garrison who uses a
PC 4210 jig regularly. John asked if you are using both ends of the jig or just
the left side. We suggest that if you are using both sides that the right side
is not set up correctly. One other thing that could be causing this problem is
that the stop is not square to the jig. |
[ Back To Main ]
8/26/2008
Dovetail Joints
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I want to make drawers using half blind dovetail joints using the PC 4212 dovetail jig. I want the drawers to flush fit using a center undermount drawer slide. How do I calculate the drawer length and width while considering the 3/8" debth of cut in making the joint? Do I add 6/8" to the inside length and/or width of opening for the drawer? |
| A. |
Last week here at the school we built Stickley style buffets. We used the PC
4212 to make the half blind dovetails. If I am following your questions
correctly: The width of the front and rear piece will be the length of the draw
opening side to side. The length of the two side pieces depends on how deep
your cabinet is and how long you want the draw to be. I normally leave an inch
or two behind the draw. You want the front and back of the draw to contain the
female cut and the side pieces to contain the male cut. This way when you pull
the draw open, you are pulling the “joint” together and not pulling the dovetail
apart. |
[ Back To Main ]
8/26/2008
4210 Dovetail Jig
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I do understand that you must feed against the rotation of the bit other than with a "climb cut". If you look a typical diagram ( I have many router books explaining this) of edge cutting (hand-held router, no under the table mount), you start in the bottom left corner and the router is moving from left to right (counter-clockwise) around the work piece (your feeding against the but rotation). Here is my problem. I have the PC 4210 dovetail jig and per the direction (once the pieces are position on the jig), you start on the right side with a climb cut and work your way from right to left. Therefore, this is telling me that for the first cut on the right side that I would be moving my router from left to right and once I finish this initial cut, I continue with the right to left action and finishing up on the left side. On a hand-held router, you should be going counter-clockwise, i.e. starting on the left side of the jig, not ending up there. In other words, this is opposed to everything I read. |
| A. |
I have the 4210 jig here at the school and
you certainly have raised a great question. To tell you the truth I never paid
much attention which direction I feed the router. So I have just returned from
the shop after using the 4210 to cut half blind. I first make a climb cut to
score the material and then feed in both directions. I see no
difference!
It really makes no difference which way: left to
right or right to left how you route your dovetails because you are
using a template guide and you are simply following the jigs fingers. You are
cutting into the face of the board and since the bit is trapped by the template
and the template guide the router can not “run away”.
|
[ Back To Main ]
6/27/2008
Dovetail Problem
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
OK, I have read all the dovetail questions on this post but none have answered this. Here it goes, I recently purchased the new 4210 dovetail jig. I have yet to get a good set of drawers yet. No matter what the bit depth the tails are always too big for the pins. I have also tried moving the template with no success either. Please help or I will have to bring the tool back. |
| A. |
I understand the frustration. Are you making 1/2" half blind dovetails? If yes, good. This is the place to start. Next set your depth of cut at 5/16" and do a test cut. If this does not get you in the ball park I would be amazed.Look at the instructions on the left end of the jig. Follow these tips on the jig. It will work!! |
[ Back To Main ]
6/25/2008
Dovetail Drawer Boxes
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I want to build dovetail drawer boxes using 1/2" Russian birch plywood and I can't get everything adjusted right. The side of the box gets chipped up because the initial pass cuts nothing and the drawer end is then cut to deep for the materials. Any suggestions? |
| A. |
If I understand your question I believe you are making 1/2" half blind dovetails. So look on the front pressure bar that holds the vertical board. You will see two brass knureled nuts behind the pressure bar. Rotate each clockwise 1/4 turn. This should get you in the right direction. Do a test cut and make tune up adjustments. This will work. |
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6/24/2008
Dovetailing
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I tried to make dovetails, but the dovetail jig was all chewed up. Now I have another dovetail jig, but need to know is it the measurement of the router bit tip to the router base and are these measurements all the same? Thank you |
| A. |
The measurements for the most part are universal as a starting point for most jigs. The place to start would be 9/16" from the cutting tip of the bit to the router base plate. Make your test cut, and adjust accordingly. Good luck. Mike |
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2/25/2008
Cutting the Dado Board
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
When I follow the Instruction Manual my pin is
way too wide to fit in the dado. By moving the templet between dado and the pin
step I can make it work! I believe there
is a step missing! The instructions seem
straight forward but it just doesn't work! |
| A. |
All things must be equal to cut box joints with
a table saw. Let us say we want to cut
½” fingers. The dado must be set up to ½”. The pin must be ½”. The distance between the pin and the dado set
must be ½”. You step the first board
across the jig and the when you are finished with the first board, you use the
first board slipped over the finger to align up the second board. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/25/2008
Box Joints
Answer provided by Marc Adams
| Q. |
Wanting to build a box joint jig for long boards
approx.30 in. long that is safe or suggest another tip? |
| A. |
Make a heavy fixture that has
a 12” tall fence and is 24” wide. Use both miter slots so that you are making a
sliding crosscut fence style sled. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/22/2008
Half-Blind Dovetail
Answer provided by Marc Adams
| Q. |
I have 1/2" plywood to make a drawer
approx. 15" by 19" and the sides are 4" tall. Do I use the
standard or miniature template? I have tried the standard and it is not working
well. Sloppy fit. The router bit depth I used was 1/4". Thank you for your
help. |
| A. |
An adjustment to the depth of your router bit is needed. To tighten the
fit extend the dovetail bit a 1/16” or so. The rule is generally “more fit more
bit, less fit less bit”. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Dovetail Joiner #4112
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I have a porter cable model 4112 1/2"
dovetail jig that I can't get satisfaction from. I'm using a new 1/2" bit,
a router turning at 22,000 rpm's and using popular to learn on (it worked once
with pine). The problems I'm dealing with are loose dovetails. By increasing
the depth they got tighter but still left a 1/32" gap (top of finger).
Also after the adjustment, some fit better than others. I'm at a total loss.
Now I'm no craftsman..... but I'm not an idiot either. The instructions I can
recite and have had all my set ups checked by someone else. What am I doing
wrong? For the wood that's being wasted, should I use a different model or just
give up? |
| A. |
Dovetail machines are very simple machines that give us the
biggest of all headache. I’m sure you have already checked, but make sure
the stock is perfectly flat, no twist,
turn, cups or bows. Even the smallest of any of those items can interfere with the fit, as well as
the template must be firmly against the boards being
routed. If your using the proper router and template guide size, I’m not sure why the gap without seeing it fit and the
set-up. The some fit better then others
problem,
can be caused by one of two things. One is the base plate may not be centered to the arbor of the motor.
If have not performed the centering task, this is how it’s done. The most common method of centering the base plate
is by using a centering cone.
Centering cone can be purchased at Rockler Hardware or Woodcraft supply stores, or any store like theses and they
run about $10.00 or so. To center a base
plate first install a ¼” template guide in the base plate and then loosen, don’t remove the 3 screws which hold
the plate to the base. Push the centering
cone through the template guide and into the ¼” collet nut. With pressure push the cone down until it dead ends
into the template guide and retighten
the three base screws. Now the cone is in the middle of the template guide, which is the middle of the base plate,
which is in the middle of the collet nut
which is centered on the arbor of the motor. If this is not done, then the second cause is if you maintain the same
orientation of the router in and out of each
finger, then you are showing a different cutting edge of the bit to the work piece with each move. That’s why some
joints can be perfect, some are open on the
right, the others on the left.
|
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Using the Dovetail Jig
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I have the porter cable dovetail jig
4210-4212. I also have the guides
42000. the templates are 1/4 inch thick but none of the guides fit these templates? All the guides but I believe one are longer
then 1/4 inch. When I try to make a cut
with these guides, the outside diameter of the guide hits the wood without
letting the bit cut? Am I doing
something wrong or do I need different bit guides? |
| A. |
You need to use the template guide that came with the jig
which is #42040. The template
guide was designed to be use with the jig, no other template will work.
Try
this template and you will have great results.
|
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Dovetail Drawers
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I saw you at a show in Somerset, NJ
last February. During the dovetail joint demo that you did you mentioned that
all drawer heights should be a multiple of a specific number. I lost my notes
and am now making two dovetail drawers and ask if you can please give me that
magic number to make all the joints work out evenly. |
| A. |
The reference do drawer height was when you use a fixed
stamped out template, like the
PC 4212 jig, all material used need to be cut in multiples of the center to center measurements of the jig
spacing. PC’s jig is set up on 1” centers, the smallest
board needs to be 1 ¼” wide, and one inch increments there after, 1 ¼”,
2 ¼”, 3 ¼” and so on. I hope this helps.
|
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
4216 Template Adapter
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I have a Ridgid router R2930 and recently
purchased the PC 4216 dovetail jig. What
do I need to make the router work with the jig? |
| A. |
I am not familiar with the Ridgid router, so the
only thing you made need is a base
plate that accepts PC template guides. If yours does, great. If not, all you need to do is purchase a retro fit base
plate for your router. Rockler Hardware or any
store like this carries these. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
Box Joints
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
When
doing a box joint, joints are not meeting flush on all four corners. On the top
of each corner, I'm having to sides match up and diagonally across the other
two opposite corners are not flush. What could be causing this? |
| A. |
Three
things must be exact, the width of the dado blade, the size of your reference
pin, and the distance between the blade and the pin. When you are finished with your first board
and have made the last cut do not remove it from the jig. Pick it up, and turn it around, sliding back
onto the finger. This will align your
second board up to the exact cutting placement. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
Dovetail Jig Differences
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
What is the difference between Porter Cable’s 4212
-12 jig and the 4210 - 12 jig. This will be my first jig and I am interested in
PC's jig but don't know which I should buy. |
| A. |
The 4210 (street price of around $100.00) will
cut half blind, rabbetted half blind, and sliding dovetails. The 4212 will cut
all of the above and also through dovetails and box joints with a street price
of around $160.00. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
Tight Dovetail Joints
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I
am using a CP dovetail jig to make dovetails for dresser drawers. The joints are too tight, requiring me to
file and sand the tails to make them fit.
I have tried making deeper cuts, but that doesn't help. Any suggestions? |
| A. |
Most
dovetail jigs are adjusted by lowering or raising the router bit into the
router to adjust the tight-loose fit of a joint. Refer to your owner’s manual and I believe
you will find this the correct adjustment.
You should never have to file or sand the tails to make them fit. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
Depth Gauge
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Do you have a recommendation on a very good
quantity and accurate depth gauge to use when setting up a dovetail jig? |
| A. |
I have a set of calipers that I purchased from
Rockler that I use daily in the shop for setting up tools. My set is in both
decimal and fractions that I find very useful. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
How to Dovetail
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I would like to know how to use my router to make dovetails and the
like, but it's hard from a book. I have tried, but I melted the template and
messed up the bit.
I have noticed that different makers require
different measurements regarding the depth of the router bit. Is there an easy
way to figure this out or what? |
| A. |
Sorry
for your frustrations. I would like to have a dollar for ever plastic top
dovetail jig sold that is covered with a ton of dust laying on a shelve in
someone’s shop. They can be a night mare
to set up and use. Take a look at the New Porter Cable dovetail jig. The improvements are awesome. The instructions are written right on the jig
and a setting depth gauge is built into the jig as well. Porter-Cable has done its homework and this
jig is by far the easiest jig on the market to set up and use. If you have a Wood Craft store nearby most
offer a dovetail jig class. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
Dovetails
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
Is
there a dovetail jig easier to work with than a craftsman jig.AS l have not
come close on any of my projects am creating to much scrap lumber. |
| A. |
I really, Really
like the new Porter Cable dovetail jigs. They are super easy to use.
Plus they are affordable! How can you beat that! |
[ Back To Main ]
2/1/2008
Router Bit Depth Dovetail Jigs
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I
noticed Porter-Cable has 2 new dovetails jigs either out on the market or
coming out on the market. Does either one make it easier to set a consistent
router bit depth for assuring proper pin-tail fits? |
| A. |
Both new jigs are
much easier to use and they have built in stops that make setting bit depth a
breeze!
|
[ Back To Main ]
8/6/2007
Dovetail Jig
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q: |
I have a dovetail jig that I have been
using. My joints usually end up a little
bit loose. How do I tighten up the
joint? The jig is a simple plate system
not an adjustable width dovetail if that makes a difference. |
| A: |
Most dovetails jigs of this style are adjusted
by raising or lowering the dovetail router bit. If your joints are loose try
raising your bit up into the router.
Once you achieve a good fit, record that setting for future use. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/29/2007
Dovetail Question
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q: |
I have a dovetail question concerning tearout at
the pins . I have made several projects with the dovetail jig and getting
better by the minute . But my only concern so far is the tearout at the pins
and tails . I have even scribed a line with the router by going right to left
in front of the template which takes care of most of it , but the softer the
wood , seems to be worse on the tearout . Any suggestings ? I always use new or
sharpened bits . |
| A: |
This simple tip helps. Back the tear our area
with masking tape then make the cut. Works like a charm most of the time. |
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6/5/2007
Jig Stop Recommendation
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q: |
I recently bought Porter Cable Dovetail cutter to make drawers. The question is when making the bottom groove to fit the 1/4 wood bottom, the process requires that we do not make the groove to go all way to the end otherwise it will show in dovetail section. What sort of jig stop do you recommend to set up a plunge router to make the groove. Hope the question is clear? |
| A: |
I just use a Sharpe non-permanent marker on the surface of the template to use as a stop point. When I make the slot cut I just stop the cut when the line shows up. Works like a charm. Alcohol will remove the line from the template when finished. |
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6/5/2007
Dovetailing
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q: |
I recently bought a 4212 dovetail jig.. beautiful, and I've already made several drawers for my shop... however I had to make them with the tail board and pin boards the same thickness because I can't figger out how to make the drawers using 3/8" thick tail stock (sides), and 3/4" thick pin stock (front and back). Is there a publication on how this is done using the 4212-dovetail jig? |
| A: |
Dale I think you are talking about the ½ half blind dovetail. If so, then put he thick board on the top and the thin board on the front of the jig. Set the depth of cut at approximately 3/8. See the tips printed on the end of the jig on how to raise and lower the bit to tune up the fit. This should solve your challenge. |
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6/5/2007
When are dovetail joints too tight?
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q: |
Is there a rule of thumb for rpm's to use vs.cutter size? How about the same question for wood hardness? 2. Tips on avoiding burn marks on endgrain? 3. How do you know when finger or dovetail joints are too tight? I'm wondering if you can get enough glue into some of the tighter fitups I've seen |
| A: |
The rule is the larger the bit the slower the speed generally speaking.
To avoid end grain burns try taking multiple lighter cuts. Also the feed speed is very important. A good slow steady feed allows cutters to shave the wood instead to scraping it.
With Dovetails you should be able to hand push the joint together. If a hammer is required then it definitely is too tight.
Try ½ of a drop of glue in the sockets only. This technique avoids messy squeeze out end grain contamination. Hope this helps! |
