Michael Van Pelt is the founder of American Sycamore Woodworker’s Retreat. He has a reputation as the tool guru. Mike has been in woodworking for over thirty years. His knowledge of tools comes from his many years of intertwining experience in the woodworking industry. Mike’s experiences include being active as an Industrial Arts Teacher, professional instructor of power machinery and tool techniques, tool sales, management and owner of woodworking tool retail store, Delta Machinery representative and technical advisory.
If you have a question for Michael, choose the Submit Question button to the right by November 30th. We will send you a reply with Mike's response in mid-December and then post it to this page for other members to view. You never know...someone else may have the same question
IF YOU HAVE A PRODUCT RELATED QUESTION, PLEASE USE OUR CONTACT US FORM FOR AN IMMEDIATE RESPONSE. THIS SECTION IS RESERVED FOR GENERAL WOODWORKING RELATED QUESTIONS.
Listed below are questions and answers that have already been submitted.
Questions
[ Back To Main ]
9/24/2009
Table Saw Conversion
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Can a 10 inch 3 hp table saw with a single flat belt,be converted to a 3 belt saw. The single belt squeals on start-up. |
| A. |
Yes. I suggest that you contact an industrial supply house such as WW Grainger. I would remove the existing pulleys, check the shaft length, and visit Grainger. Removing the old pulleys will be the hard part, depending on how they are held onto the shaft and or arbor. You might have to take your saw to a machine shop and have them press off and on the pulleys. |
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9/20/2009
Dado Head Safety
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
How can you use a guard to safely cut dado joints on the table saw? |
| A. |
You will need to install a removable splitter and an over head guard. Biesemeyer, Delta, and other manufactures produce guards and splitters. |
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6/24/2009
Splitter
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I want to replace guard/splitter on my 3hp cabinet saw. Biesemeyer is nice but too pricey. Suggestions? |
| A. |
You can buy a splitter now or you can wait till after your accident and then buy
one! After the accident you will not be so concerned about price. It does not
concern me to see a tablesaw being operated without a guard as much as a saw
being operated without a splitter. Do yourself a favor, bite the bullet, pull
the trigger and order your self a splitter. Happy birthday. Merry Christmas and
etc!! Be safe! Ok…now off my soap box…John, an accident will ruin your love
and enjoyment of the hobby …I want you to be safe and not get hurt ever…do every
thing you can to not get hurt….take care. |
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6/24/2009
Table Saw Startup
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I recently replaced my Craftsman contractor saw with a used Delta Unisaw, and am very pleased with its accuracy and power (3 HP). I tuned up and cleaned the inner workings. When the saw is powered on the motor sometimes gives a fairly violent "jolt" - other times the startup is quiet and smooth. When running, the saw passes the "penny test" and there is absolutely no vibration. What causes this action? |
| A. |
I called
my good friend Mike at Macco Equipment in Indianapolis. Mike has been in the tool repair
business since 1974! Mike suggested that the problem is most likely that the
belts need replaced or that the arbor pulley is worn or lose. |
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4/16/2009
Table Saw Blades
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I'm new to woodworking. What is the best all around table saw blade (teeth) to use when you're cutting mostly hardwoods? And should I have two blades, one for hardwoods and one for plywood? |
| A. |
Just go with the new Delta 50 tooth combination blade and you are good to go. Blade tech has improved that much in the recent years that this multipurpose blade covers about 90% of the cutting being done. Keep it sharp and there should be no tearout. |
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4/16/2009
Table Saw Fence
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I like the old Craftsman table saws because the are mostly cast Iron. But the fences leave a lot to be desired. In you opinion, are the the new Craftsman saws that have a better fence a better buy than the old ones with a replacement fence? And, money is a part of the equation. |
| A. |
You have
a great saw. Your fence is the problem! I recommend that you replace your
fence with a new home shop Biesemeyer fence system. The system is cheaper than
a new saw and is very easy to install. This fence will make your saw into a
very accurate user friendly machine. |
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4/16/2009
Table Saw Cuts
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I always found it impossible to make a straight cut on my old Craftsman table saw. No matter how hard I tried to get the fence aligned correctly the cut was always off when I put a square on it. I even bought new squares, thinking they might be off. What is the "secret" to getting a square cut every time. I know there are many "tricks of the trade" when it comes to making exact cuts with different. Same Q. for my Delta compound miter saw. |
| A. |
Two areas to address: First your table saw: If your saw has an independent
motor (a motor hanging out the back driven by a belt) it is a good saw. Your
fence is the problem! I suggest that you take a look at the Biesemeyer
replacement fence. They make a HS 28 ….HS 40…. And a HS 52. The fence will cu t
12” to the left of the blade and then choose a 28” or a 40” or a 52” to the
right. This fence will make your saw perform like a $1000.00 saw! The
Biesemeyer is dead on accurate and will spoil you. No more measuring and no
more crooked cuts. I highly recommend the Biesemeyer Home shop fence! I am
confident it will solve your problem and you will be most pleased. I have
mounted hundreds of the fences to all makes and manufactures of tablesaws, It
will fit your saw without any hassle. You will have to drill some new ¼ holes
in the front of your saw. I normally us a cordless drill, it drills real easy.
Now for your compound saw: Buy you a new quality
square. Budget $50.00 plus. I also recommend a quality 36” professional
ruler. Accurate measurement and repeatability is the secret of
woodworking.
|
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4/14/2009
Student Looking to Buy Table Saw
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I am 15yr old high school student looking in to buying a table saw. I would like a 3hp motor and a 40+in fence. Space is somewhat limited so I can't have a 50in rip capacity and was wondering what you recommend. My budget is around 1600 dollars. |
| A. |
I would look very serious at a DELTA 3hp Unisaw with a 30” Biesemeyer fence.
This is a great saw and a fantastic fence that will give you years and years of
trouble free service. Visit your local Delta dealer and see what he has to
offer. |
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4/14/2009
Table Saw Blade for Cutting Laminate Flooring
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I am about to lay some laminate flooring and the vendor recommends using a 60-80 triple chip grind carbide tooth blade to get a good cut but their tech support cannot tell what this means nor where to buy it. Can you please help? |
| A. |
They are referring to a 10” saw blade with 60 to 80 teeth with a triple chip
tooth design designed especially to produce a fine smooth clean cut. You could
find this blade at any good woodworking supply store such as Rockler or Wood
Craft Supply. |
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4/14/2009
Table Saw for Small Shop
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I want to buy a table saw for a small shop. I have to stay with 110 power for now. I am looking at the Dewalt 746 Hybrid. I seems to be more heavy duty for a table saw in that class. I will probably get the 52 inch rip capacity. I want to have as much woodworking capability as possible. A few concerns is there an after market for the splitter. I think this would be hard to take on and off with the two screw bracket. Is the trunnion really as massive as they advertise? I think its American made and that draws me to it. Some say its not worth the extra money. What do you think? |
| A. |
The 746 is a great saw. In my career, I have sold dozens of this saw and I
never had any problems or dissatisfied customers. I highly recommend this unit. |
[ Back To Main ]
4/14/2009
Table Saw Worth Fixing?
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I have a 20 year old craftsman table saw. It has a cast iron top and has a direct drive shaft motor system. I am trying to become more active in woodworking. The other day it got bound up in a warped board and then the blade would not turn after it was turned back on. I'm very mechanical and can probably fix it for maybe $100. I'm sure the motor is still working. Is this saw worth fixing or should I just buy a new one? |
| A. |
I would recommend that you do not spend any more money on the Sears saw. I
believe it is past its prime. I will suggest that you look at the Delta 10”
Contractor saw with the 30” Biesemeyer fence. This unit has an independent
motor, belt drive. The fence is very accurate and this saw is a pleasure to
operate. There is not a project or piece of furniture that I do that this saw
would not accomplish. Visit your local Delta dealer and good hunting! |
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4/14/2009
Table Saw Accessories
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Do you know of an attachment that has a chuck or spring loaded for a table saw that is use to drill holes on the table saw to make the mortise and tenon joints? |
| A. |
I am sorry to say I have never heard of such a device. I am familiar with a
mortising attachment for a Inca table saw and the multi tools from Europe. There are tenoning jigs that will hold the wood
vertical to cut the tenons and normally the mortise is cut on a drill press or a
mortise machine. |
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4/14/2009
Table Saw Accuracy
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
What is the best way to insure accurate cut on a table saw, mine is old and not very expandable. Please make it simple for a weekend woodworker. |
| A. |
First of
all attend a woodworking show or sign up for a tablesaw class perhaps at a near
by Woodcraft or Rockler store. There are several good tablesaw books that will
explain set up and correct alignment procedures. Your blade and fence and miter
gauge slots all have to be perfectly parallel and square with one another. You
may also consider building a sliding cut off jig. |
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4/14/2009
Riving Knife
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I have a Delta Unisaw Right Tilt and would like to have a Riving Knife added as many of my cuts are such that the kick-back assembly has been removed. Are there any kits to add a Riving Knife to the Unisaw? |
| A. |
I have
the units from Biesemeyer mounted on all three of my Unisaws here at the
school. They work very well and are easy to remove when using a dado head. For
your right tilt Unisaw you will need part # B78-961. |
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4/14/2009
Best Table Saw to Purchase?
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I need a table saw, but I have to be able to move it easily in my small shop. What's the best one to purchase? |
| A. |
In my professional opinion I highly recommend a Delta
10” contractor saw with a 30” Biesemeyer fence on a mobile base. This is a very
accurate saw and will give you years of reliable service. This saw is capable
of not only craft and home owner use but building furniture and fine
woodworking. It will be an investment up front but will deliver a great
performance.
|
[ Back To Main ]
3/26/2009
Trunnion Lubrication
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
What is the the recommended product to lubricate the trunnion on a table saw? |
| A. |
You want to clean and blow out any sawdust and sparing
add some dry lubrication. No oils or grease. I normally have a can of
Boeshield that I spray into the gears.
|
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3/26/2009
Direct Drive Table Saw
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Over the yrs. I have seen many articles on tuning a table saw belt drive, but have never seen one about a direct drive table saw. I learned the hard way, but now I would never go back to a belt drive. Do you know of any articles ffor this function? |
| A. |
Most
direct drive saws are low end and cheaper made saws. Most direct drive saws are
made for light duty use. There are a few exceptions to this in a large
commercial 3ph heavy duty saw. A belt drive saw is usually heavier duty and
better made than the direct drive saws that I am aware of. Usually there is not
much room for improvement on a direct drive unit and that is why you are not
finding any “tune-up” articles. Kind of spending more than the saw would be
worth. |
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3/26/2009
First Table Saw
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I am looking to purchase my first table saw and am wondering what should I look for, and what should I avoid? This will be my first table saw and I want to use it for home improvement projects...most notably at first, I want to build some built in bookcases, but I also want to eventually tackle building my own kitchen/bathroom cabinets. |
| A. |
I have
sold 1000’s of saws in my career and a lot to first time buyers. I would buy a
Delta 10” USA contractor saw with a 30”
Biesemeyer fence. This saw fits your job description to a tee. This saw would
give you years of trouble free use and the Biesemeyer fence is the best in my
opinion. |
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3/26/2009
Cabinet Saws
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Right tilt-Left tilt. How do I know what would work for me? |
| A. |
Makes no
difference at all. This subject is often a hot subject on the woodworking chat
forums and in reality it makes no difference at all. It is just what you are
used to and what you would like. |
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10/15/2008
Cabinet Saw vs. Hybrid Saw
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
What is the difference between a cabinet saw and a hybrid table saw? |
| A. |
A hybrid saw runs on 110v 15amp. Service, so there is no special wiring required. The hybrid saw is a lighter and smaller version of the cabinet saw. It has a 41" rip capacity not 50", smaller table top with lightweight cast iron, and the trunnion is mounted to the table on most models, not to the base as the cabinet saw. The trunnion being mounted to the table top transfers the vibration from the motor to top, not to the base like the cabinet saw. Lastly, the hybrid saw on average is about $900-$1300, the cabinet saw is about $1400-$2500. I hope this helps. |
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10/15/2008
110 Volt or 220 Volt Saw
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I am looking to purchase a new table saw to replace my 25 year old craftsman. I am looking at the 36-751 hybrid I am a weekend DIY should I pay and get a 3HP 22o volt or stay with the lower cost 13/4 hp 110/220.
|
| A. |
That's a loaded question. The first thing to think of is if the saw needs to be portable because of space constraints, or if it can stay in one place. Next is the electrical issue. A hybrid runs on regular 110v 15 amp. service, no special wiring required. The last one is the hardest one. The final decision would be to determine how far you want to take your wood working passion. If you think this is something you see yourself doing years in the future, or is this just a passing fancy, answer that question, then I think the decision of which saw will be easy to make. |
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8/28/2008
1/8 Craft Plywood
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
What is the best way to cut this thin stuff, use painters tape on it and cut with a table saw or what. Reason for asking this question being , In buying 1/8 inch material { baltic Birch } may have to cut it down to size. |
| A. |
Cutting thin
stuff is no problem on a tablesaw. I recommend that you use a zero clearance
throat plate and make sure that the material will not slide under the fence.
You will want to use a good 80 tooth blade for plywood. Good
luck! |
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8/26/2008
Table Saw vs. Band Saw
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I purchased a $75.00 table saw, yes I'm new and thought it would work fine. I have found it nearly impossible to cut a straight line with it, I do better with my hand saw!!! I'm saving up for another one and after some research I am debating on whether to buy a good table saw or buy a good band saw. My theory is I can cut using the table saw to rough dimensions and then clean up with the good band saw. I know eventually I will buy a table saw but was wondering if I was on the right path with my thinking here. |
| A. |
You know the
saying: Buy it right and cry one time or by cheap and cry everyday…something
like that. But I know where you are coming from. I have made several bad
choices over the years myself. OK now to answer your question. I would save my
money till I could afford a good table saw. Keep an eye for a used one if your
budget won’t allow a new one. A table saw is best for straight cuts and a small
band saw is difficult to cut straight on because of blade drift. |
[ Back To Main ]
8/26/2008
Table Saw Alignment
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Hi Mike, I have adjusted the table of my Unisaw to be exactly parallel to the blade. My Unifence is also exactly parallel and my cuts are indeed very good with little or no chip-out. My splitter is also aligned so that edge facing the fence is also in line with with the similar side of the blade. I have heard that that it is preferable for safety and performance to provide for a little toe-in (or toe-out, I am not sure. Could you comment? |
| A. |
I like to set my fence as straight as possible. I try and work wood as close as
possible and I do not like adding an unknown into the equation. The only
benefit to setting the toe out would be ripping green or treated lumber where
close accuracy is not needed. |
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8/26/2008
Table Saw Issues
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I recently bought a DELTA 36-982 table saw for my workshop. I was working with another table saw with less torque, and I wanted more power in that time. I was cutting only particle board. I bought 3/4 pine wood and I was using it in the new table saw. It was cutting good but when I cut a long board the piece becomes hard to push and suddenly stops. My question is if it is the power because when I turned on the lights it shut down for a second and the motor starts. Or, the blade that came with the table saw is not good for cutting 3/4. |
| A. |
First of all let’s put a good blade on the saw. I suggest a 10” with 24 tooth
carbide tipped ripping blade. Also when using a wood such as pine you will find
that the wood wants to close up after the cut pinching the blade. Make sure you
are using your guard and splitter. I also suggest you have a licensed
electrician to check your wiring. Sounds like a time for an update on your
electrical. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/27/2008
Squaring on Table Saw
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I have a piece of pine approx 16 in. wide x 33 in long. The ends r not square to the sides the piece is to large for my saw. How do I square up the ends. |
| A. |
Use a Clamp and edge Guide as a straight and square edge and use a circular saw to cut this by using the edge of the saw shoe against the clamp. Jig saws can be used this way too but the cut is very coarse as compared to a carbide tipped circular saw blade. |
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6/27/2008
Table Saw Kerf Cuts
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I want to make shallow kerf cuts, four per inch along a 15 inch board, on my Delta table saw in order to bend the wood. Can I install three blades on the arbor with spacers? Is it safe? I will use a jig to hold the board. If it is safe, what kind of spacers can I use? Washers? |
| A. |
I would not do this. There are too many variables. Just lay out sharpie fine point lines on your table top as fence sight lines and use these to make kerf cuts one at a time safely and efficiently. Always use the guard here too. |
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6/27/2008
Buying a Used Unisaw
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I'm looking at buying a used Delta Unisaw, from a registered dealer. What do I inspect on a used Unisaw before I purchase it, to make sure it's not a lemon in disguise? Also what questions should I ask the Sales person before I purchase the saw? They got several used ones in stock from $1200-$600. |
| A. |
First run the saw and check for burn free rip cuts and a glue joint edge right off the saw. If the blade is bad this will tell you right off. Next make a cross cut on a 7" or wider board. Check it for dead square. If it is not, pass the board back to the sales person and ask them to show you how to make the cut. If they can not it needs to be tuned up. Which they should do before you buy it.Also what sort of warranty do you get. You should get a one year for no charge. How easy does the blade tilt and adjust up and down? It should glide easily. If not, let them fix it first. Ad that is the whole ball game. |
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6/25/2008
Table Slides
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
Why is it that table slides are marked "right" and "left"? You can put either on either side, and right and left depends on what side of the table you're standing on. So what does "right" and "left" actually mean? Or is it just a way to mark table slides so you get two mirror images, and not two of the same? And "right" and "left" really have no meaning? |
| A. |
If you look at the best cross cut sleds they always almost touch the blade during the cut. Basically they are like zero clearance table saw inserts in reverse. So when the cross cut sled is used on one side it works perfectly - no binds because the blade is flush to the edge of the cross cut sled. When it is put on the other side of the blade 9 out of 10 times there is a gap that can lead to problems. |
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6/24/2008
Table Saw Tune Up
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
Hello, Do you have illustrated instructions on how to accurately tune up the table saw? |
| A. |
The best place is the internet. If you Google "table saw tune-up", it will take you to 10 sites for just that. Pick the one that best helps and go for it. I recommend these sites a lot. Mike |
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6/24/2008
Molding Head for Table Saw
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I would like to see what jig that you will need to make as many different type of molding just using a table saw and with a saw blade and running the wood on a angle to cove out the wood, and then using a molding head on the table saws with different knife for the head. So hold down jig, and angle jig and feather boards. |
| A. |
Rockler hardware has just what you are looking for. It's called a "Cove Cutting Table Saw Jig". I have made my own version of this jig a while back, and it works great. Good luck. Mike |
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6/24/2008
Zero Clearance Inserts
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
To make fine cuts with my Unisaw I want to use a zero clearance insert with the blade set at both 90 and sometimes 45 degrees. The saw blade will not lower enough to allow a safe startup to cut through the insert blank. Even the after market solutions with wide 'kerfs' cut in the bottom won't work because the blade zeros out at almost exactly the table top height. Short of using a smaller blade (not acceptable) does anyone sell a solution? |
| A. |
You could try two thinks that will work. One, insert a smaller sized blade in the saw and use that blade to make the initial cut through the throat plate, then re-install the regular blade to complete the cut. Second, if you have a stack dado blade set, use the outside cutter in the same way as a smaller blade. Good luck. Mike |
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5/7/2008
Table Saw Tilt
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
What table saw would you recommend, left or right tilting? And why the two types? |
| A. |
Right or left makes no difference. Just personal preference! The only perceived value of a left tilt is when doing a narrow bevel rip the fence is tilted away from the fence. On a right tilt doing the same operation one would simple left their fence over the blade and then the right tilt saw would be tilted away from the fence. I have both right tilt and left tilt in the school. I do like the fact on a left tilt the motor cover is on the outside making it easier to clean out the saw or to retrieve a dropped arbor nut. |
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2/25/2008
Table Saw Fence
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I HAVE A TWENTY FIVE YEAR OLD
CRAFTSMAN TABLE SAW. THE OLD FENCE IS BROKEN AND I WANT TO REPLACE IT WITH A
SOLID FENCE OF GOOD QUALITY. I AM ONLY A BEGINNER WOODWORKER BUT THIS IS A
GREAT BELT DRIVEN SAW. THE OLD FENCE IS ONLY THIRTY SIX INCHES. THE SEARS STORE
DOES NOT HAVE A REPLACEMENT. I ONLY PAID 200.00 FOR THE SAW TEN YEARS AGO.
PLEASE RECOMMEND A COUPLE SOLUTIONS. I DO PLAN TO KEEP
THE SAW IN MY SMALL 14x16 WORK SHOP. |
| A. |
I strongly suggest that you take a serious look
at A Biesemeyer fence system sold by Delta.
This fence is more accurate that I can work wood and it is easy to
install. Your local Delta dealer would
be able to help you. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/25/2008
Dado Blade Set
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
What is a good inexpensive dado blade set? I
would like to get the best made, but I am retired and on a fixed income and
can't afford an upscale dado set. |
| A. |
I own the Dewalt and the Delta stackable
sets. I picked them up at a woodworking
show for around $130.00. They cut great
and have given me over a year service so far. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/25/2008
Hybrid Saws
Answer provided by Marc Adams
| Q. |
Would like to buy the 10 inch hybrid Delta. Have read some good and bad reviews. What is your take on this? |
| A. |
I’ve also heard good and
bad. Just keep in mind that when you
purchase a saw that it will require tune up, maintenance and good blades. The price is good at $1100.00. My complaint
would be on the splitter and blade shield not being user friendly. To solve this look at getting a good after
market guard system. Always think of
safety first and never make cuts with the guards off. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/22/2008
Dado Table Insert
Answer provided by Marc Adams
| Q. |
I recently purchased the Delta 36-979 left tilt
tablesaw. I'm looking for a dado insert but no specific information comes up in
my Google search. Also, do you think the adjustable dado blades are worth the
difference in price compared to the shim models. |
| A. |
Try insert plate item
number: 36-847 at $45.00 you might try making your own insert, there are
several good articles on how to safely and accurately make them. I would never use an adjustable
dado or a “wobble” dado system. You will
find the accuracy of the Stack dadoes to be much better and easier on your
machine. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
3 HP vs. 5 HP Cabinet Saw
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I'm going to be purchasing a new table saw and
was wondering what the biggest differences are between the 3 hp and 5 hp
cabinet saws? In other words, why might I need the 5 hp saw over the 3 hp? I
will be using it for a fairly substantial hobby that I do hope to parlay
someday into a fulltime job of making furniture. I also plan to keep the saw
for 30+ years unless some dramatically new technology comes to market. |
| A. |
In my opinion I think all you will need is a 3hp
cabinet saw. About the only thing a
5 hp saw brings to the table is added torque. The average user will almost
never need the additional torque
a 5 hp brings, so why pay for it. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Table Saw - Dedicated Circuit
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I just bought a 3hp Unisaw and I am preparing to
wire a dedicated circuit for it. What is the recommended current protection? |
| A. |
You will need to run a stand alone 220 volt,
single phase, 20 amp circuit. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Table Saw Technique
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I was told once, "when using a miter gauge
to crosscut, don't allow the end of the workpiece to touch the rip fence as the
blade goes through the work." Yet I see videos showing cuts using a miter gauge
that produce the shoulders of a tenon with the end of the tenon against the rip
fence as the blade cuts. Why is it ok in this case?
|
| A. |
In the case of a crosscut, if the piece that is being
removed gets wedged between the blade and the rip fence, it can, and most likely
will be kicked back at you. In the case of using your miter gauge and rip fence
while cutting a tenon, there is no piece per say that is being removed that can
get caught or thrown back, the blade or dado set is just creating saw dust, so
there is not danger from a lose piece. The rip fence is being used only
as a gauge so that all the tenons being cut will be the same length. I
hope that clears it up. |
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2/19/2008
Side Extension Table for Table Saw
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I have a contractors saw. My side extension set up is only 10". I need to build a side table that will work
with the delta unifence. Any suggestions
as to where to go for plan? I am a new
woodworker and need assistance with dimensions and how to attach such a table. |
| A. |
Once you have removed the 10” side table and
install the rails for you unifence, you
will need to build or buy a new side table. The length of the new table will be from the edge of the main table
that the old table attached to, to the end of the new rails. The width of the table will be the distance between
the new rails. Mounting the new
table, you will use the same holes the old table used to attach to the main table, and the new rails
have holes along the length of it for you to bolt
to. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
In the Market for Another Table Saw
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
Once more I'm in the market to buy one more
table saw. It would be for the most part smaller projects around my home. It
should be sturdy enough for a one person operation as I do most or all things
by myself. I will be cutting down 4x8 sheets of plywood and heavy stock of
dough fir. |
| A. |
Depending on your budget, there are two ways to
go. If dust collection is not a major
issue, a contractor’s saw would fill the bill. It has a rip capacity of 30”,
and the
price range is between $500-$900. The other is called a Hybrid saw. The hybrid saw has a closed base like a
cabinet saw for great dust collection, and you can
get a rip capacity of 41” along with an upgraded rip fence. The price ranges from $900-$1300. The other saw is called
a cabinet saw, which is usually for the more
serious woodworker. By what you described your use will be, this is not the saw for you. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Mobile Base/Table Saw
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I have spent countless hours trying to find the
anti-vibration rubber feet for my mobile base.
In looking for aftermarket products about all I've learned is they are
called a half a dozen different names and most of them are in the UK or India. Could you suggest a few places where I can
get them without paying an arm and leg?
Mine are just about shot. |
| A. |
I went on the internet to look and found the
same thing you did. Maybe try Rockler
Hardware or Woodcraft Supply, if they don’t have them, they might know to go to find it. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Selecting a Table Saw
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Have
a shop that I'm trying to get going. Shop is 11.5 x 14. I am 6 ft. 3in. and
would really like something taller. I have a Delta dust collection unit. Bench
or table top saw and which one? I don't want to be limited to what I can and
can't do later when I finish the shop. |
| A. |
I
would take a serious look at the 10” Delta contractor saw with a 30” Biesemeyer
fence. In my opinion this is the best
saw for a home workshop that wants to build furniture and not be limited to
small projects. This saw has plenty of
power and a great precision fence. I am confident
to say that this saw will do you a great job and will last a lifetime. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/19/2008
Fence Adjustment
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I am new to my Unisaw and want to adjust the rip
fence very accurately. The only way I
see to adjust it is to tap the fence with my hand. |
| A. |
Great question and a good point. I have been using a tablesaw for years and I
can produce good work by just “bumping” the fence to my final adjustment and
setting. I have never found a need for a micro-adjustor on my Unifence. I can not work wood closer than what my
Unifence will cut nor do I need to. Now,
there are companies that are trying to sell you elaborate fence set ups with
click gear micro adjustors, but in reality one can build and do precision work
with a Unifence. I am confident with a
little practice you will find the Unifence a joy to work with. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
Table Saw Fences
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
What
are the criteria for choosing a fence? What should I consider when trying to
choose between T2, Delta Unifence, and Biesemeyer fence? |
| A. |
I have used all three fences here at the school. I like the feature of the Unifence when doing
plastic laminate work (Formica). The
fence can be adjusted so thin work can not slide under the fence and by flipping
the fence to its lower position can be used to trim laminate work flush. My personal favorite is the Biesemeyer!
I like the square body of the fence for making
jigs and fixtures. I like the beefy feel
of the Biesemeyer as well. All three
fences are very accurate. Take a look at
the fences and decide which system fits you needs the best. It really is a personal decision. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
Unisaw 220/110
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I
am thinking about purchasing a used unisaw that's configured for 220, how easy
is it to change to the unit to 110? |
| A. |
I do not believe it would be very feasible unless you are getting a
tremendous deal. Unless it is a very old
saw with a 1 1/2hp most Unisaws are 3hp and will run on 220V only. If you must replace the switch and the motor
to run on 110v
I believe you would have to spend more that it
would be worth. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
Tapered Table Legs
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I have a 10" table top delta table saw
(15amp). I would like to taper table
legs on 2 sides. The legs are 3.5"
on each side. The saw blade appears to
only raise to 3" above the saw table.
Any suggestions? |
| A. |
Sounds like a good excuse to buy a new
Bandsaw….but with the tools in hand I would cut as deep as I could with the
tablesaw and finish the cut with a hand saw and clean up with a hand plane or
belt sander. Be very careful and I would raise the blade in several steps as I
was cutting. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
Miter Gage
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Is there a procedure for aligning the miter
gage? Mine is the one that came with the
10" contractor's I recently bought. It is a few degrees off! |
| A. |
I like using a large plastic drafting
triangle. I loosen the miter gauge and
raise up the blade. Slide the square up
to the blade body and align your miter gauge square to the blade. This should do the trick. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
115V vs. 230V
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
My Delta table saw (34-444) can be converted for
230v operation. What are the advantages of doing this? |
| A. |
This subject has been discussed
many times in magazine articles and is often a heated subject on the chat
rooms. In a home shop environment and a
saw that is used only occasional, there is no real advantage to converting your
saw to 220V.
If you are having troubles with lights dimming or
surges in power CALL a licensed electrician. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
X5 VS Unisaw
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I
am going to purchase a new Delta tablesaw and am not sure between the
36-L31X-BC50 (new X5) or the 36-831LA (old Unisaw). My decision is not based on
price and I do believe that newer is usually better, but FHB magazine gave a
great review of the unisaw and not such a flattering review of the new X5.
Which would you choose and why? |
| A. |
It
is my understanding that the X5 series is only a marketing program and the two
saws are identical in design. Perhaps
the author of the review did not do his research. You have asked for my opinion so here
goes: I am a big fan of the Biesemeyer
fence and I prefer a left tilt saw. The
3hp is plenty of power for my needs. In my career I have sold hundreds of
Unisaws and all with no problems or service issues. I am very confident that a 3hp left tilt
Unisaw with Biesemeyer fence would serve you very well. Good luck! |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
Left Tilt Blade
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I
have a 10 inch left tilt table saw. i am not sure what side of the balde I
should be working from, particularly when the blade is tilted left (should my
waste be on the blade or under?). Is
there a rule of thumb? |
| A. |
The
rule is that the scrap piece should fall safely away from the blade. Always
follow the manual instructions. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/18/2008
Hybrid Saw
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
Please
explain: What is a HYBRID saw and how
does it differ in functionality from non-hybrid table saws? |
| A. |
The
hybrid trunion is like the contractor’s saw trunion. The hybrid has many
upgrades (like the cabinet for noise and dust abatement) that make it a very
good buy. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/15/2008
Table Saw Dropped by Movers
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I
recently moved and the movers dropped my table saw (stationary 10" 3HP). The
trunnion is 1/4" off, the blade height adjust handle is broken off and
several other damaged areas. I might
need a new saw. Delta has so many - how
do I choose? I am a relatively heavy
home user. I am considering the 36-L53L
model. Is a new saw necessary? I need reimbursement from the movers but am
having difficulty explaining the saw damage to them. Am I overreacting to the trunnion
damage? With that type of impact I am
concerned about the electronics. Is that
a concern? I would like an American made
saw with American steel. Is the Delta
American made? Any other information
would be very helpful. I have a big
house to fill with cabinets, molding and doors. |
| A. |
They
dropped a very finely tuned tool. They bought it! Buy the new one you mentioned.
Left tilt is best. 3 HP is plenty. Include the cost of delivery when you buy it
and you are back in the saddle. You do not want to try to move 363 pounds on
your own! So hire the delivery and placement done by pros. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/15/2008
Good Table Saw?
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I
am a new woodworker who has been learning the past year and I wonder what is a
good table saw to first start out with? |
| A. |
I
recommend the Delta Unisaw to all woodworkers. Why, because the table saw is
the heart of the shop and I think everyone deserves the very best! 3HP is
perfect! |
[ Back To Main ]
2/15/2008
Blade Exposure
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I am new at this
and always will be. I have a 10" table saw.
When ripping or cross cutting how much of the
blade should be exposed. |
| A. |
¼” is the maximum
blade exposure.
|
[ Back To Main ]
2/15/2008
Building a Fence for Table Saw
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
What
is the best material for building a sacrificial fence for cutting rabbits on my
table saw? I just bought my first saw. |
| A. |
I
just use any straight and flat board that looks like it is going to stay that
way. Quarter cut wood stays true better than flat cut woods. ¾” thickness is
ample. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/15/2008
Fence Upgrade?
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I
have an old Model 34-410 contractors' saw and need to replace the fence
body. Are there better fences available
(Biesemeyer or other brands?) which will fit this old saw? Or would it be better to put the money toward
a new saw? |
| A. |
I
honestly highly recommend upgrading to a cabinet saw or a hybrid. You will get
a much higher level of performance. You deserve it! I really like the
Biesemeyer! |
[ Back To Main ]
2/15/2008
Table Saw Extensions
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I'm
20 and have been a 'termite' for four years now. I have yet to get my shop set up exactly the
way I want it, but...that's beside the point.
I am in the process of bringing back to life an old 8"
table saw. I have mounted a 3HP motor on
it, found a good blade, and am in the process of making a full table saw
workstation (based on Danny Proulx book "Building Woodshop
Workstations"). I like his idea for
building extension tables, but I also like Ian Kirby's article in Woodworker's
Journal on Torsion boxes. This could
make a great extension too. What would
you suggest as far as construction methods and MATERIALS? |
| A. |
I
make all extension tables out of laminated 1” thick MDF counter top material.
Where do I get it? Easy, they are scraps from a counter top manufacturer. If
you shop around you will find a source too. This stuff never warps. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/15/2008
Ripping a Board
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
When
ripping a board, should the waste side go against the rip guide or should the
good side go against the rip guide? |
| A. |
The
rip fence will only give good results if the good edge (that needs to be
against it) is truly square and arrow straight. Always follow the manual and
use the guard and splitter as instructed. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/15/2008
Tilt a Molding Head Cutter in Table Saw?
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I've
been searching for this answer for years and can't find it. I’ve been wondering
if you can tilt a moulding head cutter in the table saw and is it safe? I know you can tilt it in a radial arm saw. |
| A. |
I
do not tilt molding head cutters. All manuals that I have checked never tilt
the head. So do not tilt the head. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/14/2008
Table Saw Tilt
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
Please explain the advantages/disadvantages of right vs. left tilting
table saws.
Also, which would be the most desirable for the
average home shop owner? |
| A. |
I like the left tilt biesemeyer best. It just
gives me more support during ripping cuts of beveled edged material. The rule
is: the more support, the better. And
left tilt saws just are better because there is lots of table width to the
right of the blade that makes cutting
bevels on large stock easier. I
like the left tilt. It is a personal choice so do tests first. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/14/2008
Right vs. Left
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
Have a ton of reference material but still do
not understand why I would choose a saw with a right hand tilt blade or left
hand tilt blade. Can you help me
decided? |
| A. |
I like the left tilt biesemeyer best. It just
gives me more support during ripping cuts of beveled edged material. The rule
is: the more support, the better. And
left tilt saws just are better because there is lots of table width to the
right of the blade that makes cutting
bevels on large stock easier. I recommend the left tilt. But still it is a
personal choice. Try both! |
[ Back To Main ]
2/14/2008
Advantages and Disadvantages
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
From the time I first got into woodworking, I've only seen "side
tables" mounted on the right-hand side of table saws, whether cabinet,
contractors, etc.
Why can't that "table" be mounted on
the left-hand side? What are the
advantages and/or disadvantages? Is
physics involved here? |
| A. |
The
world is right biased. There is no scientific reason that the support table be
left or right. So I recommend building support tables as people need them. I
see these table systems in large cabinet shops. The only limitation is shop
space. I like the left tilt biesemeyer best. It just
gives me more support during ripping cuts of beveled edged material. The rule
is: the more support, the better. And
left tilt saws just are better because there is lots of table width to the
right of the blade that makes cutting
bevels on large stock easier. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/14/2008
Table Saw Blades
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
What
is the best blade for cutting 3/4 shop oak plywood? I'm fairly new to working
on wood. |
| A. |
I like the Delta 50 tooth carbide tipped combination blade. It works
perfectly for both rip and cross cuts on the table saw and it also works great
for cutting plywood. I have no veneer tear out with this blade on either
plywood surface.
Keep it Sharp and this will be the best all
around blade for all jobs. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/14/2008
Cutting Tapers
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
How do you accurately cut a taper on a table saw? I want to go from 7 inches down to 4 inches
over approximately 6.5 feet. I will do
this on 4 pieces of 1x. The four pieces
will then be nailed together to make a tapered 4 sided column.
|
| A. |
I
really believe that this job should be done on a band saw or with a hand held
jig saw. You will get much better and safer results this way. You can hand
plane the cuts or use a sanding block to smooth each tapered surface. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/1/2008
Table Saw Insert
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
On the New Yankee Workshop TV program, Norm uses
a saw with a metal insert that has a replaceable wooden slide-in insert. Does
anyone know where to purchase these? |
| A. |
I remember this product from 20 years ago. I used
to have one but found that modern blades, when sharp, require no inserts. Try
the Delta 50 TPI combination blade and see that it produces perfect cuts in all
materials. No tear out on my saw and no inserts needed with this blade. |
[ Back To Main ]
2/1/2008
Tongue and Groove
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I
have about 1000 B/F of pine board that I want to put down as flooring in a
cabin. I would like to tongue and groove all the boards. My question is what
would be the best way to do this with a router or joiner and which brand would
suggest buying. |
| A. |
The very best
affordable way is to use a matched tongue and groove molder knife set in a
table saw molder head. My wife and I
just made 2000 board feet of southern yellow pine flooring this way and it was
fast and safe.
If you have a
strong back, the router with tongue and groove cutters will work just fine too.
Be sure to wear a good dust mask and hearing protection. Good luck!
|
[ Back To Main ]
1/29/2008
Choosing a Table Saw
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I'm new to woodworking, but I
am wanting to purchase a Delta tablesaw. I don't know whether I
should buy a right tilt or left tilt... I'm right handed, if that
matters. Please advise!
Also a unifence or biesemeyer
fence?
|
| A. |
I like the left tilt biesemeyer
best. It just gives me more support during ripping cuts of beveled edged
material. The rule is: the more support, the better. And left tilt saws just are better because
there is lots of table width to the right of the blade that makes cutting bevels on large stock easier.
|
[ Back To Main ]
8/6/2007
Sliding Table for Left Tilt Unisaw
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q: |
I am thinking about getting a sliding table for my left tilt
Unisaw. I see Delta only sells theirs for right tilt Unisaws. Is
there something inherently risky or problematic about installing a sliding
table on the left tilting saw or is the lack of availability a mere function of
lack of demand for it? Given that there is no delta sliding table
for my saw I am considering the Jess Em Master Slide. Any comments
on it? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
|
| A: |
I have had
the pleasure of using the Jess Em Master Slide.
It is very nice and very accurate.
It was a pleasure to use. I
suggest that the Jess Em would be best used for smaller work. If I did a lot of panel work I would look
into the Excalibur Sliding attachment. I
would also consider buying a sliding compound saw instead if I was wanting to
do accurate cut offs and miters. The
cost of the Jess Em would go along ways toward a purchase of a good sliding
saw. You need to consider your work
habits and shop space.
|
[ Back To Main ]
8/6/2007
Delta Bench Top
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q: |
My ten year old Delta bench top saw stopped
working. I checked continuity on the power switch and it seems to be
working. So, I assume the motor has gone bad somehow. Would you
suggest replacing the motor? How hard is that to do? |
| A: |
I would suggest
that you take the unit to a Delta service center and have them check it
out. They will be able to tell you if it
is financially feasible to have it repaired.
Knowing the cost of repair, you can then make an informed decision.
|
[ Back To Main ]
8/6/2007
Rabbets - against the fence or on the other end?
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q: |
I've normally seen rabbets cut on a
table saw against the fence using and dado set partially set under a
sacrificial fence.
I saw you do a demonstration at the
Woodworking Show in Sacramento
a few months ago, and you cut a rabbet with the opposite end of the board
against the fence and the rabbet on the free side of the board.
The
obvious advantage of cutting the way you did is speed - you don't have to put
up the sacrificial fence - but are both methods equally accurate? |
| A: |
Busted!! You caught me. The safe and most accurate is with a
sacrificial fence and the rabbet edge against the fence. The way I was doing it just saved me from
mounting a sacrificial fence and was done for speed and demonstration purposes
only.
Thank
you for your comments and thanks for attending the Woodworking Show. Hope to see you again next year! |
[ Back To Main ]
8/6/2007
Recommendations for My First Table Saw
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q: |
I am about to purchase my first table
saw. Although this will be my first, I would like a quality model that will
take me through many years as I become better skilled as a woodworker as
opposed to having to upgrade. thank you for advice. |
| A: |
I would suggest a 10” Delta contractor saw with
1 1/2hp motor and with a 30” Biesemeyer fence.
This is a great saw and will allow you to build any piece of furniture
one would want. If it’s in the budget I
would buy a 10” 3hp Delta Unisaw with 50” Biesemeyer fence. It is my opinion the tablesaw is the heart of
the shop. Buy the best you can afford. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/29/2007
Table Saw Question
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q: |
I have been looking for a good explanation of
the differences between a left and right tilt table saw. What are the
safety concerns? How does it affect ripping or crosscutting? |
| A: |
The left tilt lets you rip wide stock and use
the large support table to the right of the blade for easier cutting. I
recommend the left tilt for this reason. All other variables are pretty much
the same. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/29/2007
Table Saw Upgrade
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q: |
I'm going to buy a new Delta table saw and need to know
what is the advantage between the 3 hp or 5 hp. I have a small wood shop and
will be using the saw a lot.
|
| A: |
Jerry if you are going to be ripping lots of thick stock
(2” and up) of dense hardwoods the 5 HP is a good up grade. Rip cuts require
more energy for smooth cuts. So be certain to us a high quality combination
carbide tipped blade that is sharp, clean and well maintained.
|
[ Back To Main ]
6/29/2007
Table Saw
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q: |
I have recently retired and want to continue my
woodworking, but to a higher degree. I love Delta products and here is my
question. Delta has many versions of the table saw. I am looking to
buy a Delta saw that will outlast me. Price be dammed, just
kidding. What I am predominantly looking for is 10 inch, bis
fence but want one that cuts true,square, and doesn't groan when cutting a
two x four. I look at the selection and it just gets confusing to me. Do
I want a Unisaw, or go to lower price cabinet saw. I will be weekend
working mostly. Any help or input will be greatly appreciated. |
| A: |
Rick, you have worked hard and so should your
saw – right? Step up to a 3 HP left tilt unisaw and smile forever. This is the
tool for you! |
[ Back To Main ]
6/29/2007
HP
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q: |
Hi I'm interested in buying a new X5 tablesaw
and am wondering the best saw between the 36-L31X-BC50 and the 36-L51X-BC50 is
there alot of difference between the 3hp and the 5hp do they both run just as
smooth. is there alot more required for the 5hp over the 3hp as far as fuses .
The difference I come up with is only $100-$200 so is the 5hp worth the extra
money. Thanks |
| A: |
I have two 3 Horse Power table saws and love
them. I have never had problems with any cuts. So I say 3 HP is just fine. If
you were going to rip lots of 3” stock go to the 5 HP. I think the unisaws are
my favorite tool in my shop. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/26/2007
Table Saw Inserts
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q: |
I have the 39-979 left tilt contractor's table saw. I
understand there are no plans to make a blade insert for this model. So, I
guess I go back to the stone age of making my own zero insert. What is the best
material or what about the plastic ones that I have seen in year's past?
|
| A: |
I buy
the manufactured ones that are made out of an MDF material.
|
[ Back To Main ]
6/25/2007
Blade Recommendation
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q: |
New to woodworking - read many pieces
on blades for cutting veneered plywood (i.e. red oak 3/4" plywood) but still
confused. They say more teeth the better but have found some blades with 100+
teeth and then when I read other advertisements/articles maybe an 80 tooth blade
would work. Without breaking the bank, for the average woodworker in cutting
sheet, for a clean, smooth cut - what would you recommend? I am using a Delta
tablesaw. Thank you for this opportunity. |
| A: |
I have always found the
Delta 80 tooth to work great. I do recommend using a zero clearance insert to
help support the veneer around the blade during the cut too. These inserts are
accessories available to woodworkers that are looking for perfect tear free cuts
every time. The sharper the blade the better the cut too. |
[ Back To Main ]
6/25/2007
Calibrate Miter Gauge Against Blade
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q: |
The cuts seem to vary in degrees.
What is the best procedure to calibrate Miter Gauge against the Blade.
Everything seems to be tight, no slop. |
| A: |
Charles this falls into the
category of been there done that. We all have had exactly the same problem with
the miter cuts on table saws. So here is the ultimate solution. Make a sliding
miter table jig. Woodsmith has an excellent plan for one. Plus Bieseimeyer makes
a gem of a sliding table that guarantees perfect miters. Sorry to say that miter
gauges alone are only going to get you into the ballpark. Perfect joints every
time can only be had with a sliding table jig on table saws. Have you ever
considered upgrading you shop with a high-end miter saw? It is the ultimate
miter time saver. |