Ask the Expert
IF YOU HAVE A PRODUCT RELATED QUESTION, PLEASE USE OUR CONTACT US FORM FOR AN IMMEDIATE RESPONSE. THIS SECTION IS RESERVED FOR GENERAL WOODWORKING RELATED QUESTIONS.
Michael Van Pelt is the founder of American Sycamore Woodworker’s Retreat. He has a reputation as the tool guru. Mike has been in woodworking for over thirty years. His knowledge of tools comes from his many years of intertwining experience in the woodworking industry. Mike’s experiences include being active as an Industrial Arts Teacher, professional instructor of power machinery and tool techniques, tool sales, management and owner of woodworking tool retail store, Delta Machinery representative and technical advisory.
If you have a question for Michael, choose the Submit Question button to the right by November 30th. We will send you a reply with Mike's response in mid-December and then post it to this page for other members to view. You never know...someone else may have the same question
IF YOU HAVE A PRODUCT RELATED QUESTION, PLEASE USE OUR CONTACT US FORM FOR AN IMMEDIATE RESPONSE. THIS SECTION IS RESERVED FOR GENERAL WOODWORKING RELATED QUESTIONS.
Listed below are questions and answers that have already been submitted.
Questions
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9/24/2009
Air Filtration
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I use my 2 car garage as my shop, since I live in the desert I use a down draft swamp cooler which is centered in the room, it needs the door open for circulation, there are no windows.I also have an air filtration unit that hangs from the ceiling I'm not sure that I have it placed corectly. Most of my tools are behind me when using my table saw or they are just to the right of my saw. Which way should the unit be blowing the clean air? Any diagrams would be helpful or I could send my floor plan for more help in this area. |
| A. |
You will want to place the unit in the center of your shop if possible and face the intake toward the most “dirty” machine. The unit is designed to service a two car garage easily. I have a large shop and I have six units that run just about every day all day long. The units are 7 years old with no service problems to date. They really do a good job of collecting the air born dust. Just remember to blow unit the filters when needed. |
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9/20/2009
Dust Collector Canister
Answer Provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I have just purchased the 50-760 dust collector, several blogs have mentioned installing a pre-filter canister, I think it is designed to remove larger chips, etc, thus saving the bag for fine dust. Can you advise how to install/build such a unit, does it help? |
| A. |
I have several “separators” installed in my shop on the heavy waste producers such as jointers and planers. The separator will dump the heavy chips into a 55 gallon drum and only the very fine dust will be deposited into the dust collector’s bag. This saves time from emptying the collector so many times and also keeps all the heavy waste from going through your collector. Take a look at Lee Valley or visit your local WoodCraft or Rockler store. |
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4/16/2009
Ambient Air Cleaner
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I build fishing rods and need the room as dust free as possible when applying epoxy. After doing a little research I purchase a Delta 50-875 Ambient Air Cleaner. My question is; where is the correct location to hang this unit. The room is 15x17 with 9 foot ceiling and an 8’ light in the center of the ceiling. I saw the earlier question about the Ambient Air Cleaner, but was not sure if the location would be the same with the ceiling being different. |
| A. |
So how do you get fresh air into the room? Epoxy is very nasty stuff to breathe. So you need an explosion proof exhaust fan first to ventilate the room. The ambient air cleaner will help with dust big time but it is not the solution for VOC issues. So once you get rid of the bad vapors I would hang the cleaner with the intake side right above where you sand with the exhaust pointing towards the center of the opposite wall. Allow 10 feet from the back of the unit to the wall for best results. |
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4/14/2009
Dust Collection of Plastic
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
What is the proper way to ground the dust collector system when all fittings and flex pipe is made of plastic, no wire wound in anything. All tools are grounded through electric wiring as code specs. |
| A. |
I did a little research on the web and boy is this subject controversial. Some
experts warn not to use plastic at all and others say plastic is OK. From my
experience I believe that you will be fine using plastic in a home shop
environment. I will recommend that you read: Dust Collection Basics from
Woodstock International. Good luck. |
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8/26/2008
Cleaning Bag
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
My Dust Collector top bag, 1 1/2 hp unit, is getting so full of dust that it is bleeding thru to the outside of the bag. I am unable to take it outside and use the "rug-beater" or broom as I live in the city with very little back-yard. What can I do to "detach" the dust from the inside of the bag. Can I use my shop vac? |
| A. |
Yes, you could use your shop vac to clean out the top bag. |
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8/26/2008
Dust Collection Venting
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Is there anyway, or do you recommend removing the filter bag and exhausting this model directly to the outside? |
| A. |
The problem of venting the dust collector directly outdoors would be the loss of
heat or air conditioner. If you have close neighbors this would be a problem as
well. I suggest that you stay with the bag. |
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6/27/2008
Dust Collection -Open Rafters
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I have open rafters in my workshop, which gives me plenty of room to put the main dust collection line above. Currently, I have clear hoses connected on each of my machines just waiting to be attached to a main line above and to the collector. Should I spend the money ($$$) to buy metal ductwork for the main overhead line, or can I use the same 'see thru hoses throughout the system? (I have seen this done at a local woodworking store in their work shop) I really need to design and install a system of some sort, so your opinion would be greatly appreciated. |
| A. |
How big is your dust collector motor. 2 hp and less can use hvac 4" steel ductwork. It grounds itself (unlike plastic pipe) and saves a king's ransom over spiral pipe. If you have a 3 HP collector better buy the spiral pipe.Otherwise the pipe will collapse. Always use a 1 micron filter bag and ambient air filters too for healthy living! Your shop sound fantastic! |
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6/27/2008
Ambient Air Cleaner
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
Is there any recommendations as to how the 50-850 should be oriented in the shop? My shop is 12'X 20' with a ceiling that slopes from 8' down to 6'10". I have the unit suspended from the highest side, about 20" from the wall to allow for air flow, but, that doesn't seem to be working that well. I turned it 1/4 turn and it was definitely worse. |
| A. |
Air circulation is key. In a shop your size I like the intake in the center of the room. Pointing at the highest ceiling peak. I have installed lots of these and they are great. This will help. Just keep all filters clean. |
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6/27/2008
Dust Collection for Workshop
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I am at present establishing a dust collection for my workshop. Some devices do not have dust ports. What is the least expensive method of connecting dust control to the following tools? 1) 16" Scroll Saw 2) Bench Drill Any advice you can provide would be greatly appreciated. |
| A. |
Use a 650 0ne micron dust collector with 4 inch hose and a reducer to fit on to your scroll saw. Delta's new one rocks! Plus it is a great buy. And very easy on the ears too! I always like 650cfm per tool so buy quick disconnects for easy on and off at each too. Blast gates are availiable and affordable at Woodcraft stores. Stay with 4" hose and fixtures when possible. |
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6/25/2008
Small Woodworking Shop-Dust Collection
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I am setting up a small woodworking shop and need to get a dust filtration system for the entire shop. I understand about calculating the cubic feet of the shop, but there seem to be a lot of answers for how large a unit I should buy. How many times do I need to turn over the volume of the shop per hour? The 1 micron filtration systems advertised claim different levels of removal from 94 to 99% on the ones I have seen. How does this enter into the decision and why the difference? |
| A. |
Best of luck in your new shop. Here is the simple way to approach dust collection. In a small 20 by 30 shop a standard ambient air cleaner recirculates the air 7 time per hour. That is fine for airborne dust. With dust collectors each tool neads a minimum of 650 cfm for good collection. Always use a one micron filter bag. And this is a fact in my book: Use several dust collectors around workstations for best results. If a budget is a constraint then a central dust collector is not the way to go. If going to a centeral collection system get a 3 hp cyclonic collector. That provides tons of cfm. Remember if you breathe fine dust long enough you will have problems. Dust collection is a blessing! |
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6/24/2008
Grounding Dust Collection
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
Is it necessary to ground abs ducts for a home shop dust colection system when only power equipment is in use? IE table saw or band saw is in use. |
| A. |
Yes. Mike |
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6/24/2008
Dust Collectors
Answer provided by Mike Heavey
| Q. |
I have an old Delta 560, 3/4 hp, 2 stage dust collector, with a fabric bag. I am considering up grading to one of the newer models with a filter cartridge. However, all the new models seem to be single stage collectors. I use the collector in my garage work shop on one tool at a time. Yes, moving the hose is a pain. Would a new 1200 cfm, single stage collector be better than what I already have? What would you suggest for a hobby woodworker? |
| A. |
The advantage to a canister is the fact that they can collect dust particles down to 2 micron size. Your current bag may only get down to 30 micron at best. Also the canister is better at collecting dust because there is more surface in a pleated canister than a flat bag, Your current dust collector most likely is a 500 to 650 cfm machine capacity. A table saw or jointer/planer needs 350-400 cfm to properly clear it. As a bag begins to fill, you loose suction power, which reduces the cfm. A 1200 cfm machine is much more efficient and can power two tools at the same time which can limit the moving of the hose. I think the switch would benefit you greatly. Good luck. Mike |
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5/7/2008
Dust Collection for New Shop
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I am building my first woodworking shop. In planning out the configuration of where everything goes. I will be putting my table saw towards the middle and will be running the 220V power under the slab. Can I also run the duct collection piping in the slab also? I am trying to avoid having the duct work running on the floor. |
| A. |
I understand your thought pattern and yes it is a pain to have dust collection hoses or pipes in the way on the floor. The only problem I have in putting it in permanently under concrete is changing one’s mind or if you hobby changes to let us say turning or miniature work. It took me five years in my shop to finally figure out the best layout and my work flow. Please give it a lot of thought and carefully consider any changes or growths for the future. There are a lot of advantages of having it under the concrete out of the way. Just be sure….concrete as Jimmy Hoffa knows is permanent. |
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2/25/2008
Dust Collection in Basement Shop
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
Thank you for the opportunity to
ask an expert! I have a basement shop so
my problem is ceiling height due to heat ducts, pipes, etc. In all my research
the hoses are coming from the ceiling. Can I run my hoses on the floor? Do I need
to figure in any addition loss when I purchase a dust collector? Will this cause more static?
Also, there are two of us usually in the shop at the
same time so I want to run more than one machine, ie..bandsaw &
router. What do you recommend? (cyclone, portable, ..) |
| A. |
I would recommend a 1 1/2hp unit that would
develop around 1200cfm. This size unit would give you plenty of volume and
would allow two machines to be used at one time. Running the hose on the floor
would not be a problem, just perhaps a nuisance to step over. |
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2/25/2008
Dust Collection
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
How do I set up my shop using dust collector for
my planer, cabinet saw miter saw,etc? |
| A. |
Woodshop Dust Control by Sandor Nagszalanczy is
the best book I could recommend on the subject.
This book will guide you to the best system and the correct placement of
your machines and duct work. |
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2/25/2008
Dust Collectors
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I need help with
determining what is best for my 15x15 shop. I have too many machines to list,
but I usually use one hose at a time with a shop vac. |
A.
|
I would recommend a
system that draws 1000 to 1200 CFM. This
unit is big enough to handle any common woodworking machine, big enough to run
duct work, and would have ample storage capacity. Please check out Woodshop Dust Control by
Sandor Nagszalanczy. It is truly the
“Bible” of dust collection. |
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2/25/2008
Dust Collection Under the Floor
Answer provided by Marc Adams
| Q. |
Every shop I see has their dust collection ducts run
to the overhead. I have the space to run my ducts under the floor of the shop,
along with the vacuum. Is there a benefit from running the ducts overhead, or
will under be just as efficient? |
| A. |
There would be no advantage to running the duct work
overhead, but if you run it in the floor make sure you have plenty of cleanout
ports. |
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2/25/2008
Galvanized Duct for Dust Collection?
Answer provided by Marc Adams
| Q. |
I'm working on setting up a dust collection
system in my new shop. I see several types of duct systems. I don't see anyone
using the inexpensive rigid galvanized ducts that you usually see in homes. Can
you tell me if there is any reason not to use galvanized ducts? |
| A. |
The thickness of some
galvanized duct work is so thin it will collapse under pressure. I suggest that you buy your duct work from
someone like Rocklers or Woodcraft. |
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2/18/2008
Dust Collector
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q. |
I have two dust collectors Delta # ap400. I
would like to install a remote switch on each to turn them on and off. What do
you recommend for this? |
| A. |
I recommend the unit that Rockler sells. It has held up very well for me with a lot of
use. |
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2/14/2008
Residual Wood Dust Dangers
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I
keep reading various concerns about the dangers of wood dust. Even though I have a cyclone dust collector
and use an additional HEPA filter air exchanger, I just cannot collect ALL of
the dust! And yet my father has done
woodworking for years with LOTs of dust and little trouble. How "concerned" should we
woodworkers be, especially if our shops are in homes where there are little
children?
|
| A. |
Excellent Question Mike!
Be concerned. Wood dust is recognized as a
serious shop issue by all organizations. The more resistant to decay the wood,
the bigger the dust problem. Why? Wood is basically three things: cellulose,
lignin, and extractives – all elements, molecules and chemicals. So breathing
and inhaling these things can create allergies and other challenges. My rule:
Use one micron filters with all dust collectors, back them up with ambient air
cleaners and wear Niosh 95 dust masks when doing dusty processes. I upgraded my
shop with these things years ago and I have zero concerns today because I did.
Plus I do a cleaning every week to keep the shop dust free. This pays dividends
in all areas of work in my shop. |
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2/1/2008
Dust Collector
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
I
would like to purchase a dust collector. And would like to know how to choose
which model would work best. I have several tools I would like to connect i.e
table saw, band saw, router table and various hand held tools, as well as a
down draft table. |
| A. |
I
recommend the 1 1/2HP 1200 CFM dust collector with the one micron filter bag.
Get the quick “Disconnects” to make transitions between tools easier. One nice
upgrade is the accessory remote control switch. Keep the hose runs short for
best efficiency! |
[ Back To Main ]
1/29/2008
Dust Collector
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q. |
We
have a 1.5HP dust collector (Model 50-760).
It has recently lost a lot of it's effectiveness. We have cleaned the cloth bag, but there
still is much less suction and the bag doesn't fully inflate. There is quite a bit of air blowing out of
the motor housing. Is this normal? |
| A. |
First unplug the
dust collector. Next unhook the hose on the bottom of the impellor or fan
housing. You will see a tangled mass of long planer or jointer shavings
clogging the inlet. Use a scrap stick to gently clear the shavings. Do not stick
fingers into the metal housing! Do not force anything!
Re-attach the
hose, you should be back at full power. This takes care of 95% of all the
issues you just mentioned. |
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8/6/2007
Dust Collection
Answer provided by Mike Van Pelt
| Q: |
Hello Mike, First of all, thank you for providing
the opportunity to take questions from novice woodworkers like myself. My
question has to do with dust collection and specifically the hoses. I
have recently purchased a dust collector for my basement workshop. In
researching the dust collection hoses, I find a range of hoses from inexpensive
vinyl hoses up to very flexible clear hoses with copper wire coiled the length
of the hose. My first question is: is there really an important
difference in what type of dust collection hose to buy. The second
question, I guess, parallels the first which is: is one type of hose better
from the stand point of the dealing with static electricity. I have
considered the more expensive hose with the copper wire already intregated in
the hose. But then I have wondered about an inexpensive hose and just
running a flexible braided copper wire through it and grounded to the machinery
at each end. Thanks again. |
| A: |
I have many
different styles of dust hose here at the school that I have purchased from
different sources over the years when needed.
In a home work shop there is usually not enough volume to worry about
static electricity. I have found that
the clear flexible hose is the longest lasting and much easier to move form one
machine to another. If you are building
a “system” and the hose will be permanently mounted the ridged hard plastic
hose will work just fine.
|
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6/29/2007
Dust Collector
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q: |
I have a Delta 1 /12
Single-Stage Dust Collector, MY question is: What is the proper way
to clean the top bag? can you wash it or what to do to clean? I use
plastic bag on the bottom. |
| A: |
I do not recommend washing it. It comes back
looking like a spotted cow. I take mine outside and rope it up in a tree on a
windy day. I put on a good class two niosh dust mask and beat it with a broom.
Inside and out. It is a sight to behold. I always keep the wind to my back to
help direct the dust away from me. This low tech approach is the only way to
go. |
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6/29/2007
Dust Collector
Answer provided by Scott Phillips
| Q: |
I have just purchased a 50-760 dust collector
for my garage hobby shop. Can I connect the unit to more than one tool or
do I need to install gates to block the air flow from tools not in use? I
have a Delta tablesaw, jointer and bandsaw that I would like to connect along
with the DeWalt Planner. |
| A: |
You can run this dust collector with two hoses
open but I highly recommend using blast gates to quickly direct the collection
where you need it. Any tool needs a minimum of 600 cfm of air flow to work
effectively. Also keep the runs of hose as large in diameter as possible. Connectors
are important too. Large openings translate into efficient air flow and better
collection. Remember too that you lose 10% of efficiency per 10 feet of hose
run. So keep the runs as short as possible. |
